[Glanwydden, North Wales] Queens Head

It’s a goodly while since we last had lunch here. The menu seems unchanged – it’s one of those places that get by doing this, but supplementing with a handful of specials on the blackboard. If you’re only visiting periodically, this really isn’t a problem because, as always here, we were a bit spoilt for choice. For those who don’t know the Queens, it isn’t a gastropub but it is a good dining pub – in my head, I know the difference but struggle to put it into words.

We weren’t sure if we wanted starters but, to paraphrase John Lewis, we are never knowingly underfed. So, a portion of king prawns (this also comes in a main course size) in a sweet chilli sauce, handful of salad and a hunk of bread. It was OK. The other starter brought a bed of lettuce leaves, scattering of tomato, red onion and feta, topped with crisped slivers of lamb. A yoghurt and mint dressing was just right. The better choice.

Cod was baked to the perfectly flaking stage, with a Welsh rarebit topping. There’s creamed leek to emphasise the regionality of the dish. And the ubiquitous fat chips. The rarebit cropped up on the other main, topping a burger. The meat was a bit dry, underseasoned and underflavoured. There’s salad and chips. This is OK but nowhere close to being a stellar burger, or the better of the two plates.

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“Food is a pretty good prism through which to view humanity.”

― Jonathan Gold