[Gifu, Japan] Ayu fish set meal at Kawaramachi Izumiya 川原町 泉屋

After a death defying drive from Uji to Gifu (ok, I am exaggerating here), we finally arrived in Gifu City. Part of the reason that I wanted to be in Gifu was because we wanted to take a trip through the Kiso Valley, which was roughly another hour plus away. Also as I was researching Gifu, I learned about their ayu sweetfish catching by the cormorant birds in the Nagara River during the summer, so I booked a fishing tour at night, and had an ayu fish themed dinner at Kawaramachi Izumiya, which was very close to the dock.

We were early for the reservation. So we admired ayu grilling by the chef a little bit, then walked around the old town of Kawaramachi 川原町 for half an hour before our dinner.

Kawaramachi was riverside port district for merchants since the era of Oda Nobunaga. When we showed up, it was about 5:30pm so it seemed like most of the tourist shops already closed up. Its too bad we didn’t come earlier and didn’t know about Kawaramachi, but the machiya houses along the main thoroughfare were quite well preserved, almost as good as some of the old post towns we would visit the following day in the Kiso Valley.

Old time round red post office box- they actually looked kind of British.

Gifu Prefecture is famed for paper craft- Mino washi 美濃和紙, and was recognized as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage, one of the three washi in Japan to receive the recognition. Mino is a town about an hour away from Gifu City.

Gifu uchiwa fan shop.

We ordered three ¥3630 set, with one coming with the ayu ramen, as well as a ¥4730 set with ayu with roe.

Pickles to start.

Sweetfish rilette and cream. This was actually quite French.

Grilled salted ayu sweetfish.

This one with the roe.

Tiny dried shrimps and anchovies.

Ayu ramen.

Ayu porridge (the default option if not upgraded to ramen).

Overall, the meal was decent. Of all the dish, I enjoyed the porridge the most, because the small ayu pieces went really well with the flavorful porridge. The ramen was a little odd because the ayu didn’t really have any discernible synergy with the ramen. Go with the cheaper and better porridge option. The grilled ayu was a bit heavy on the salt, so the salt somewhat covered the sweet flavor of the ayu.

Lots of food souvenir available downstairs.

The comorant was ready to pounce!

The restaurant had a lot of live edge tables, which looked very nice of course, and the tables likely came from the live edge table factory right next door.

Time for the ayu fishing tour!

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So interesting, thanks for all the pics!

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To @sck and @Google_Gourmet – what does the Ayu taste similar to?

After the meal, we had to rush to get to the dock. After dropping off the family at the dock, I circled back to find parking. I ended up parking right back at the restaurant :rofl: and ran over.

The building with a little bit of exhibit inside, opposite from the dock.

Getting ready to leave the dock. Many Japanese brought their dinner bento boxes and beer onto the boat.

There were many boats that night, with us being the non-Japanese tourists.

Each boat had a guide that explained ukai fishing- a traditional method of using cormorant birds to catch ayu fish in the river, and provided some color commentary. This method has been around for 1000 years. Ayu sweetfish is the prefecture fish of Gifu, and the form of fishing has provided an important source of food for locals.

Ayu is able to survive only in very clean waters because they feed on moss that grow in clean water. It has a mellow, delicate flavor and has a certain sweetness in them. Wild ayu is a prized delicacy in Japan.

The only problem was Google Translate was only able to translate a tiny fraction of what our guide said. We heard he said that this year ayu fish population was down so they were going to just demonstrate the process by dropping ayu fish into the river for the bird to catch.

This traditional method involved capturing of wild birds, clipping their wings, and the removal of the fish from the bird throat.

Its certainly an interesting peek into the past. Gifu city doesn’t receive many international tourists, but the tour provided certainly a window into how traditional Japanese life used to be.

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Fascinating!! Would be great to be on a boat at night watching the birds work. Hope to visit Gifu on a future Japan visit.

Never heard of Gifu, or the Ayu fishing until you mentioned in an earlier post. Just saw a YouTube video on the town, and also the Ayu fishing.

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Thanks for the video! It just came out five hours ago too! The video also covered the restaurant Kawaramachi Izumiya. The host ate a similar meal as we did. The grillmaster was the same gentleman we saw that night too. plus Kawaramachi the town and the red mailbox!

Gifu City is the capital of Gifu the prefecture. Shirakawa and Takayama is also in Gifu, though they are a lot closer to Kanazawa than to Gifu city.

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Shizuka Anderson!! Been following her on youtube for a long while. The whole Japan by food channel is interesting.

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Since she said there are a total of 3 episodes about Gifu, I’d venture a guess what the other two episodes are about, since she went when Gifu was 35C hot, so around the same time as I did.

  1. Gero and Gero Onsen. Gujo Hachiman for the month-long festival in August. Both places we didn’t have a chance to go this time but really wanted to go. I especially wanted to go to a restaurant near Gero called 四季の郷志むら.
  2. Takayama and Shirakawa

I don’t think she’d go to Magome-juku in Kiso Valley since most of the other towns in Kiso Valley is in Nagano.

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