Gary has died, aged 59.
A food hero of mine, he was a pioneer of Modern British cuisine, reinventing traditional dishes and the use of local produce and trechniques. Although out of the public eye for a number of years now, his legacy is that he started the change of a nation’s restaurant food, setting the scene for others, like Fergus Henderson, to gain popularity.
I remember his first TV show. He cooked lunch for players at Manchester United (yeah, another southerner who was a fan). It was a salad. But this was a “Full English” salad using all the breakfast ingredients, including local Bury black pudding, to enhance the leaves. I was hooked on his food. To coin a phrase he often used it had “all the tastes, all the flavours”.