Gaggan Anand on Michelin & Racism

Gaggan Anand has some strong words on the Michelin Guide:

“I have never found an Indian inspector there. My question is even if the inspector has spent five years in India or has an Indian wife, they will never understand the difference between a hing (asafoetida) in kachori, or a hing in a fried stew, and a hing in a cauliflower stew. They will never understand - they were not born in India,” he says.
“How can a French Michelin guide judge Indian cuisine without even having an Indian inspector? Would the French accept (the) Ceat (Indian) tyre company going and doing restaurant awards in Paris? And giving them three stars with Indian guys who have spent 10 years in France? If they would not acknowledge that, why should we acknowledge that?”

For the record, Gaggan Anand is located in Thailand. The 2021 Michelin Guide for Thailand listed the following:

6 restaurants with Two MICHELIN Stars (1 promoted)

  • Chef’s Table (Promoted)
  • Le Normandie
  • Mezzaluna
  • R-Haan
  • Sorn
  • Sühring

22 restaurants with One MICHELIN Star (2 new, 1 promoted)

  • 80/20
  • Blue by Alain Ducasse (New)
  • Bo.Lan
  • Cadence by Dan Bark (New)
  • Canvas
  • Chim by Siam Wisdom
  • Elements
  • Ginza Sushi Ichi
  • J’aime by Jean-Michel Lorain
  • Jay Fai
  • Khao (Ekkamai)
  • Le Du
  • Methavalai Sorndaeng
  • Nahm
  • Paste
  • Saawaan
  • Saneh Jaan
  • Savelberg
  • Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin
  • Suan Thip
  • Sushi Masato (Promoted)
  • Pru

1 Green Star restaurant

  • Pru

106 Bib Gourmand restaurants (17 new, 4 promoted)

165 MICHELIN Plate restaurants (32 new)

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You will find me towards the front of the queue to criticise the Michelin process.

It’s still heavily weighted towards French and French-ish restaurants and, just looking at the restaurant names here, that would seem to apply to a disproportionate number of awards in Thailand.

Here in the UK, Michelin is very London-centric. Over our seven 3* places, five are in London with the other two being just outside the capital. It also seems very arbitrary in its decisions. I know of restaurants which hold stars and, whilst I wouldnt necessarily criticise that, I know of other comparable or better places which remain starless.

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Is still there!

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Then create a local guide book then with local inspectors. Anyway, Michelin outside France is just something to help if you have no hint at all what to eat. Certain city pays to have Michelin team to come.

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Maybe the author ought to also look inward for evidence of bias. Unless one of the job requirements is being a straight married man or a gay married woman, in which case Michelin is a weirder organization than I thought.

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I was thinking the same when I read that.

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Oh yes! And Jay Fai’s Instagram post from Oct 20 showed Russell Crowe (much pudgier than his Gladiator days) meeting the Iron Woman herself.

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Ah, she’s still cooking! Good to know.

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Actually, he appears to have slimmed down considerably from a couple of years back

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He’s in Thailand, together with Zac Efron, for a new movie shoot - always a great motivation to get back in shape!

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Having lived in Thailand for 16 years, using Michelin Guides for local food in Asia isn’t much better than using Trip Advisor.

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