Fulgurances, l'Adresse, Paris

pilgrim · December 1, 2015, 12:36am

Fulgurances has been an organization that supports young/new chefs and ideas. In the past, it has put on events and pop-ups. But this fall it acquired a bricks and mortar kitchen and dining room. And it opened with a bang with debut Chef Chloe Charles. So good, we actually booked twice in 10 days. She will be in house until mid-May. She uses every part of every product she uses, as major player, sauce, broth, garnish, nothing goes into the compost. And she is an imaginative cook, brilliant and unexpected combinations, but every one delicious. But she is not the whole story. What is really exciting is that this is a showcase for new talent, a proving ground, with full support of pro front of house, both service and wine. This is an address to return to again and again as it showcases these extraordinary new talents.

http://www.fulgurances.com/en/fulgurances-ladresse-opening-fall-2015/

naf · December 1, 2015, 1:11am

Looks promising. Could you talk a bit more about the 2 meals? Style? Like Septime?

pilgrim · December 1, 2015, 1:38am

Yes, somewhat like Septime. Maybe better! Chloe is a risk taker, but to my taste all of her leaps were sound.

Starters: artichoke with red wine jus, bone marrow, shower of shaved roquefort. Another of barely cooked shaved potato with crab coral, kiss of mustard.

Plates: Seiche (large squid) with veal sweetbreads, meat jus and lemon; guinea hen roast with peppered yogurt, grilled bread puree and pears. All sublime. This lady has imagination and technical skills to support it.

But equally exciting is the semi-yearly change of chef. You never know what great new talent will be cooking for you. This is a place to watch.

naf · December 1, 2015, 9:29am

I think I will give this chef a try soonish. Thanks for the tips. The advantage when working as house chef is you can be more daring and creative than if you own the restaurant.

naf · May 22, 2016, 2:35pm

Thanks again pilgrim, for the recommendation, I finally tried Fulgurances L’Adresse. Unfortunately, couldn’t make it with chef Chloé Charles. Starting from 19 May, the new house chef is Tamir Nahmias, he was leaving Frenchies earlier this year, the French Israelian chef is preparing to open his own restaurant later this year.

Our dishes - Entrées :
Charmoula Octopus - Poulpe charmoula - fèves, pommes de terre, olives vertes et ail des ours

Lamb tartare - Tartare d’agneau - zaatar, pignons de pin et anchois

Main dishes:
Brill fish cooked in browned butter - Barbue au beurre noisette - asperges, petit pois, beurre blanc et canelle

Lamb - Agneau - artichaut, féta et anchois

Desserts:
Parfait au halva burgau et fruit de la passion

Rhubarbe & fraises sorbet à la rose et basboussa

My favourite dish is the lamb tartare that I stole from hubby (we always exchange dish midway so we can taste everything). I also like the perfectly cooked fish in the nutty butter sauce. The octopus entry is alright, I think those who like a good Charmoula will like this dish, I personally find the sauce a bit overwhelming. As for the lamb, I overheard the waiter explaining to the table behind me how it was cooked in sous vide for many hours etc. It was alright but not Allaiton quality. Ever since I ate the Allaiton lamb (store buy), I rarely find better anywhere, even without sous-vous, the meat was so tender and melt in your mouth. For the dessert, I like the parfait, good with the passion fruit.

To my surprise, I booked online Friday night for a Saturday lunch without any hassle. I never ate in Frenchies, so I can’t compared.

dlobo · June 1, 2016, 1:45am

Can you give a idea of how much the meal cost you? Also any idea if it would be a good place for young adults (tweens / teenagers). they are adventurous eaters, so not worried about the food part

naf · June 1, 2016, 8:26am

We were 2, the meal was à la carte and was around 100€ including drinks.
I think they have a lunch menu from Monday to Friday.

It’s okay. I saw a father bring his 8-10 year old son, probably living in the neighbourhood. Decoration is modern: basic wood, metal etc. but not fine dining setting with table cloth. Tables are quite closes together like many bistros in Paris.

pilgrim · June 7, 2016, 4:50pm

Adding to naf’s excellent reporting, when we were there in May, there was a large family group with a well-behaved toddler. The room is very casual and your tweens/teenagers would blend in fine.

The dinner menu (three courses + several unlisted small plates) was 44€ per person at that time.

plragde · February 6, 2017, 8:35pm

For our January 2017 visit, Sam Miller (former sous-chef at Noma) was the chef.

Since for once there was a legible printed menu with details, I don’t have to type them in again.

Except this was not on the printed menu. It is malt flatbread spread with crème fraiche and sprinkled with a kind of bottarga made from the eggs of Mediterranean sea bass (bar).

I should probably have rearranged the plating or tried different angles if I wanted my pictures to be informative.

I appreciated the visual pun, and the parsnip granita was better than I expected it to be.

Also not listed on the menu: sablés spread with dulce de leche and sprinkled with powdered fennel.

Pleasant atmosphere, not too loud even though the room was full, good service, and it was nice to be able to see into the kitchen. (There were bar stools, which would allow for an even better view.)

naf · February 7, 2017, 9:21am

Wow, only 24€ for all these dishes? Good value meal!

plragde · February 7, 2017, 3:47pm

Yes, it was a good deal. On CH someone posted a dinner menu from about the same time, and there was considerable overlap, but of course at a higher price.

pilgrim · February 7, 2017, 3:48pm

Tremendously good quality/price ratio. I would be pretty certain this is the lunch price. Nevertheless…

plragde · February 7, 2017, 4:14pm

Lunch was 19/24 for two/three courses plus extras. Dinner is 46/58, more courses, but it is not clear how they count!

naf · February 9, 2017, 6:36pm

Céline Pham will be the next chef that starts on 8 march. Franco-Vietnamien chef, she starts her career first working in music, but her interest in cooking led her to the cooking school l’Ecole Ferrandi. She has worked in Ze Kitchen Gallerie with William Ledeuil, Saturne with Sven Chartier, Septime with Bertrand Grébaut and Chez Aline with Delphine Zampetti.

You can grab an idea of her cooking here. http://celinepham.com

I like a lot of Vietnamese food, I think this will be interesting since she mixes street food with French cooking.

naf · August 6, 2017, 10:09pm

Peeter Pihel, chef from Muhu island in Estonia, the ex sous chef at Faviken, Sweden, will be cooking at Fulgurances on 28 August, 2017, more info here:

http://fulgurances.com/fr/peeter-pihel/

RandydeParis · August 15, 2017, 7:48am

My take on it.

naf · August 15, 2017, 10:18am

Thanks. I was think of reserving for lunch, but the restaurant is closed now and reopen at the end of August. From your review it seems the chef’s style is Asian + French fusion. Maybe the sweet sour taste is an influence in Vietnamese cooking.

RandydeParis · August 15, 2017, 10:26am

You’re welcome. Before reserving, check to see who featured Chef is. They switch out.

naf · September 1, 2018, 9:42pm

New chef in residence, Mariana Villegas, from 28 August - late December 2018.

A short introduction, born in Monterrey Mexico, she studied at the Culinary Institute of America, a few month internship at Chicago’s Blackbird, after graduation she worked at the Union Square Café under the team of Danny Meyer and eventually went back to Mexico and worked under chef Enrique Olvera’s Pujol.

Saturday menu 35 € - 2 entries, 1 main and 1 dessert

Amuse bouche - Clam with Tabasco, coriander, avocat oil, shallot and lemon juice

Equilibrium in flavours, the heat was subtle.

Entry 1: lettuce with herbal vinaigrette, coppa and figs with green salsa

A bit on the acid side.

Entry 2: tomato salad, smoked aubergine puree and burnt onion powder

I like the aubergine puree, smoke flavour matched well with the onion powder. Tomatoes were good (these days we were too spoil by our home growth tomatoes)

Main: Fish - Black mullet fish, potatoes confit (ratte), bo choy and tomato consommé - tasted the consommé, was delicious

Main: Meat - Arrachera with herbs, charos bean stew with bacon, with avocado and borracha salsa

Dessert: Tres leches cake, 3 types of milk, burnt vanilla mascarpone and lemon zest

Since I am not an expert in Mexican fine dining, I have a feeling that certain dishes, the Mexican touch was too minimal, it could be a modern French dish, like the tomato salad and the fish. On the whole, dishes were well executed, they were not spicy and had subtle flavours (except the lettuce salad). A satisfactory meal but it lacked that wow effect. My favourite dish was the clam.

We had a glass of Chardonnay and Muscat, 7,50€. With an additional café and carbonated water offered, 86,50 € for both of us. A good meal, will I rush back? Not so fast.