From Rising Star to Bastion of Great Sushi - The Approachable and Delicious Omakase Experience of Shin Sushi [Thoughts + Pics]

The passage of time has been all jumbled up for many of us over the past year+ of the global pandemic. It seems like only yesterday that Shin Sushi burst onto the local dining scene. Shin Sushi is helmed by Chef-Owner Taketoshi Azumi (formerly of Sushi of Gari, Asanebo and Mori Sushi). During our very first visit a few years ago, Take-san happily shared his story, growing up in Japan watching his father prepare Sushi every day at his father’s original Shin Sushi in Tokyo. But when Take-san wanted to become a Sushi Chef, his father refused to teach him, wanting a better life for him and thinking he wouldn’t be able to endure it. So Take-san set off for America and trained and trained, hoping one day to make Sushi alongside his father (which sadly didn’t happen before he passed away). :cry:

But with Shin Sushi, Take-san has named the restaurant after his father’s original place, as a tribute to him. Just a few years earlier, Shin Sushi was already a rising star in the Sushi landscape. He’s worked hard at his craft and earned 1 Michelin Star in 2019. We hadn’t revisited Shin Sushi since before the pandemic hit. Now that we were fully vaccinated (and Take-san and his 1 waitress as well), we decided it was time to pay him another visit (and show support to this small mom & pop shop).

Shin Sushi is following all guidance for COVID-19 precautions: The Sushi Bar itself remains closed. There are only 3 tables (at least ~10 - 12 feet apart) being served at any one time. Everyone was masked and we felt safe.

Opening Course:

While not a traditional Zensai course reflecting the season’s bounty in the way that Maru-san at Mori Sushi prepares it, this starting course was nicely plated and delicious! :blush:

Pickled Tomato & Okra:

You get an immediate tart-sweet, piquant burst from the lightly Pickled Tomato, full of deep flavor, and the Pickled Okra was a nice vegetal counterpoint.

Tsubugai (Welk):

Poached in a Housemade Dashi, this Tsubugai (Welk) was plump, meaty, and had a pleasing mouthfeel.

Hotaru Ika (Firefly Squid):

Fantastic! :slight_smile: Tender, with a light chew (but never rubbery), the Hotaru Ika was excellently prepared by Take-san. :blush:

Toro no Kunsei (Smoked Fatty Tuna Belly) + Takuan no Kunsei / Iburigakko (Smoked Pickled Daikon Radish):

Seriously. :open_mouth:

You get this deeply, gorgeous smoky infusion, like a great BBQ course, which gives way to a deep, gentle fattiness but it’s slightly taut (perhaps from the smoking?), it is unmistakably Toro (Fatty Tuna Belly) that we all know and love, but very different from the usual Sushi preparation. And it is one of the highlights of the meal! :heart: :heart:

I wanted to immediately order another serving, but held off since we were about to start our Sushi Omakase experience. :sweat_smile:

The Smoked Takuan (Pickled Daikon Radish) also known as Iburigakko (thanks @ColinMorey) was still snappy, crunchy and only had a very light smoke infusion. Still it was a great foil for the lush Smoked Tuna Belly we just had. :slight_smile:

Hyaku Moku - Alt. 3 - Special Blend Sake (Hyogo, Japan):

A surprise favorite of ours during a previous visit, Hyaku Moku Alt. 3 is a blend of 3 different types of Yamada Nishiki Rice brews, so it doesn’t fall into a traditional classification like “Ginjo” or Daiginjo" etc. Enjoying our first cup of Sake in the new year, in a restaurant… it could’ve been swill like Sho Chiku Bai and would’ve probably tasted great as well (OK, maybe not). :wink: But the Alt. 3 was fantastic! Crisp, clean, smooth dry finish. It was invigorating! :heart: (@A5KOBE @ipsedixit @ColinMorey)

Madai no Kobujime - Red Snapper / Red Sea Bream (Kyushu, Japan):

The opening Sushi presented to us was an examination of the same Fish, but at different stages of life. The adult version of this Fish is Madai, or Red Snapper as Take-san called it. The Konbu (Kelp) preparation helped give the Madai a delicate light chew, but still tender and just a clean, pleasant taste.

Kasugodai - Baby Snapper / Young Red Sea Bream (Kyushu, Japan):

And then served back-to-back is Kasugodai, or Baby Snapper, which is the younger version of the same Fish. It is served with Sakura no Hana (Japanese Cherry Blossoms) as well. :open_mouth: Take-san wanted to celebrate Spring in Japan, and the Sakura (Japanese Cherry Blossom) is a prominent part of that season.

It wasn’t just for show, because that Sakura flower and a Sakura distillation (in paste form) was stunning. Beautifully floral, it added fruitiness and also with some tartness (like Ume, but less intense). It really accentuated the Baby Snapper. Lovely! :blush:

Ebodai - Butterfish (Aomori, Japan):

Delicious! Take-san torches the Ebodai quickly to release some of the fat. There’s a smokiness, oily, luscious, but also still having a lean quality as well. :blush:

The Shari (Sushi Rice) is good and tastes like it’s improved since before the pandemic: Toothsome, the grains can be appreciated, not overly compacted, nor too wet / soggy like some versions.

Kurodai no Shoyuzuke - Black Snapper in Soy Sauce Pickling (Australia):

Absolutely stunning. :open_mouth:

Tender, silky, umami. It is the definition of luscious. Highlight of the meal! :heart: :blush: :heart: (@paranoidgarliclover @ipsedixit @ColinMorey @attran99 @foodshutterbug and all!)

I haven’t had anything close to this bite of fish since before the pandemic.

Hotate - Scallop (Hokkaido, Japan):

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Hokkaido Scallops are one of my favorites. On this visit, they were good, but not as bright and vibrant as the best versions can be. Still tasty, but I chalk it up to the limited business Take-san is getting these days with the pandemic going on still.

Maguro Zuke - Soy Sauce Marinated Bluefin Tuna (Boston, U.S.A.):

Deeply savory, pleasing, tender Tuna. :slight_smile:

Fish Bone Miso Soup:

Outstanding Fish Bone Miso Soup! :heart: It was warming, lightly briny (in a good way), balanced Miso flavors and a nice break in the Omakase course.

Suma Gatsuo - Special Bonito (Kochi, Japan):

This was a lovely variation on Katsuo (Bonito), the Suma Gatsuo version is less pungent / oily, still deeply flavored and it fit with this Spring progression.

Genkai Masu - Ocean Trout (Oita, Japan):

This version of Ocean Trout from Oita, Japan was nothing short of amazing: Luscious, fatty, oily, but not as intense as Ohtoro (Fattiest Tuna Belly). I could’ve eaten another 2 orders of this easily. :heart:

We asked Take-san (he was close enough to ask questions even from our table), about Sakura Masu (Cherry Trout), usually found in Spring time. Take-san said he tried ordering it a few times and he got some in earlier, but this week there was no supply. Next time hopefully.

Chutoro - Medium Fatty Tuna Belly (Boston, U.S.A.):

Delicious. It had just the right amount of fattiness, still tender, savory.

Iwashi - Sardine (Chiba, Japan):

I have been spoiled by Maru-san’s (Mori Sushi) legendary Iwashi (Sardine) preparation and sourcing. Even though our last bite of that stunning Iwashi was like 2+ years ago, it is burned in my brain. :slight_smile: Take-san’s Iwashi is wonderful. It’s lightly fatty, oily, briny, but it lacks the next level fattiness and coaxing that Maru-san was able to get out of his Iwashi he served us (on two separate occasions). Still, even as is, this was great. :blush:

Amaebi - Sweet Shrimp (Live) (Canada):

Take-san explained that he didn’t find any product he was happy with this week for his Live Spot Prawns / Amaebi course from Santa Barbara, so he went with this version from Canada. It was crisp, snappy, a silky meatiness that only Live Shrimp immediately dispatched can impart. There’s some inherent sweetness, it is tasty, but not as good as great Santa Barbara sourcing.

Nodoguro - Blackthroat Sea Perch (Nagasaki, Japan):

Fantastic! :heart: Smoky, deeply savory and crave-worthy, and luscious. :heart:

Bafun Uni - Sea Urchin (Hokkaido, Japan):

I haven’t had Bafun Uni from Hokkaido, Japan in so long. This was near flawless. Savory sweetness, delicate oceanic but bright (not the bad ocean flavors). So good! :heart: I would’ve given this 2nd highlight of the night if it wasn’t for the Nori (Seaweed) wrapper, which was soft and chewy. :frowning: It was very surprising / disappointing. But I think this is due to the limited business / turnover Take-san has right now as he juggles how to fully re-open.

Gindara - Black Cod (Alaska, U.S.A.):

Take-san lightly torches the Gindara (Black Cod), which really makes it shine: Fatty oils get released, smokiness, tender fatty qualities. :blush:

This was the official end of the Omakase Sushi meal, but Take-san asked us for any additions. Of course we had to… :slight_smile:

(Round 2) Kurodai no Shoyuzuke - Black Snapper in Soy Sauce Pickling (Australia):

As stupid good as before. :heart: :blush: :heart:

Torotaku Temaki - Fatty Tuna Belly + Pickled Daikon Radish Hand Roll:

We let Take-san choose what Temaki (Hand Roll) to end with, and he whipped up this special: He chose a special cut of Toro (Fatty Tuna Belly) mixed and chopped up with Takuan (Pickled Daikon Radish), and the result was an almost creamy fatty delicious bite mixed with little bits of crunchiness from the Takuan. :slight_smile: Sadly, the Nori (Seaweed) was still soft. :frowning:

For those curious, the socially distanced Sushi Omakase experience at Shin Sushi worked. It’s not going to replace the true Omakase experience sitting at the Sushi Bar, right in front of the Sushi Chef, but at Shin Sushi, the 3 socially distanced tables are about ~15 - 20 feet away from the Sushi Bar itself. It’s also quiet (with only 3 tables) so it’s easy to ask questions to Take-san and he can hear you without the need for you to raise your voice.

In addition, he served the Sushi by individual piece, just like the usual Omakase experience, so you get the Nigiri made fresh and served immediately per bite. Some restaurants have resorted to making a bunch of pieces at once, then dropping off a large plate at your table, but this isn’t the case at Shin.

For our first time back to Shin Sushi since the pandemic, the dine-in, socially-distanced Omakase experience was very enjoyable. Sushi Chef Taketoshi Azumi is still as warm and gregarious as always. He’s inviting, loves to chat with the customers and makes you feel at home, enjoying a wonderful Sushi dining experience with him guiding you on the freshest Fish of the day.

This was probably our 7th visit (or so), and with the preparation, knife work, total experience, Shin Sushi is now a real bastion of great Sushi in Los Angeles. There are still areas he can improve in, and he still doesn’t seem to specialize in much Shellfish, but that’s OK, because what we get is just a great Omakase experience by someone truly dedicated to his craft.

Shin Sushi
16573 Ventura Blvd.
Encino, CA 91436
Tel: (818) 616-4148

Update 1: New visit in May 2022. Excellent Yuki Masu (Snow Trout) and more!

Update 2: August 2022 visit. Lovely Shima Aji and more.

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Thank you, as always, for the report. What is the cost (if you don’t mind me asking…), and do you think his food is sufficiently accessible for those of us (me) who aren’t sushi connoisseurs?

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Hi @paranoidgarliclover,

Thanks. :slight_smile: Not counting the bonus rounds and bottle of Sake, it was roughly ~$140 (plus tax & tip) for the Omakase course. (And we were certainly full at the end of the standard Omakase, but just wanted to see what else there was to try, it had been so long since we were out and about.) :wink:

As for appreciating it? I think your palate is well-developed and I love your recommendations, so I think you’d appreciate it! :blush: I think I asked you before, but have you tried Shunji or Mori Sushi (closer to the Westside)? If you have, curious what you thought of those experiences.

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Oh, I’m glad you like my recs! Although I’m not sure what recs I’ve made to you since I normally learn about places from you. :wink:

No, haven’t tried either Shunji or Mori. The last (and, TBH, one of the few ever) omakase experience I’ve had was Masakazu on Westwood. Partner and I really enjoyed it, although I, as usual, had no idea what I was eating. The fish soup was one of the best things I’ve ever tasted. Have you been?

The price for Shin seems doable. :slight_smile: I’ll let you know if/when we give it a try.

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Hi @paranoidgarliclover,

You are too kind. :slight_smile: Oh, Masakazu. I haven’t been yet (even though it’s close). I was meaning to try it (and the previous shop before it closed in the same location), but then the pandemic hit. Thanks for the report back on it. :slight_smile:

Were there any particular Sushi that stood out to you that night when you went? (Any of the lighter whitefish, or the luscious fatty fish (like Toro (Fatty Tuna Belly))? Or did you get any Hikarimono (silver skinned fish like Sardine, Mackerel, etc.)? Usually those are “oilier,” more briny / oceanic, heavier on flavors. Or maybe shellfish (Scallops, Abalone, Geoduck, etc.)?

Just curious because as you enjoy more Sushi, you’ll start to pick out your favorites. You can then mention this to the Sushi Chef at any new place you visit - That you like “ABC” or “XYZ” type of Sushi, and that helps guide them in the Omakase experience for you. :wink:

Ultimately, the positive thing about Shin Sushi is that know you’ll be receiving fresh, top grade Sushi offerings, even if you don’t know all the fish being served at any one time. :wink: Make a note for yourself if a particular bite really stood out to your palate. Then you have that for reference next time you head out to a Sushi spot. And over time you’ll start discerning even more things you enjoy (and Chefs can recommend similar fish but also unique in their own way).

Enjoy!

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I had never even thought about categorizing the seafood in that way! Thanks, very helpful.

I think I like whitefish and fatty fish. :slight_smile:

:scream: If I didn’t already have plans for Kaneyoshi this weekend, I’d be running to Shin.

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Hi @attran99,

Ah cool. Let us know what you think of Kaneyoshi this weekend. And are they still seating up to 3 parties at the Sushi Bar with no barrier between them? Just wondering what safety measures they have in place. Thanks.

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It’s buyout. Our group has the entire place for the evening. I don’t think what we experience will be like regular reservations.

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tenor-54791617

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That sardine was one of my best bites in 2019! Stunning! Take is one of the most friendly and approachable sushi chefs around!

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Update 1:

It had been awhile since our last visit to Shin Sushi, time for a revisit!

Chef-Owner Taketoshi Azumi is hard at work, preparing our opening course when we arrive.

Suehiro Ken - The Sword - Daiginjo Sake (Fukushima, Japan):

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Suehiro’s Daiginjo has always been a reliable Sake. We first enjoyed this back at Kiriko on Sawtelle years ago. It’s approachable, summer fruits, sweetness, but balanced with something earthy perhaps, and a clean finish.

Sake fans will be happy to know Take-san has expanded his Sake menu now, to include a few major standouts, including the venerable Tatsuriki Brewery.

Opening Course:

Hotaru Ika - Firefly Squid - Toyama, Japan:

Served with Karashimiso (Japanese Mustard and Miso Sauce), the Hotaru Ika (Firefly Squid) is becoming a signature item for Take-san (as we’ve seen it on most of our visits). It’s ultra-tender, slippery, silky.

Iso Tsubugai - Sea Whelk - Hokkaido, Japan:

Firm, with a slight chew, but sufficiently tender, nicely seasoned (just a delicate savory touch).

Wasabi Tofu:

Housemade Tofu, silky, smooth and topped simply with freshly-grated Wasabi Root. It exuded a strong Soybean flavor.

Sawagani - Japanese River Crab:

The adorable little Crab posing on the plate is Deep Fried Sawagani, or Japanese River Crab. It’s been fried at a high enough temperature that its shell becomes brittle enough to eat whole, like Soft-Shell Crab, but crunchier.

This was a great pairing with the Suehiro Daiginjo Sake.

Toro no Kunsei (Smoked Fatty Tuna Belly) + Takuan no Kunsei / Iburigakko (Smoked Pickled Daikon Radish):

Local Sushi fans might be able to spot the influence that Maru-san (Mori Sushi) had on Take-san, as this bite is something straight outta Mori Sushi’s Zensai Course. But it’s an outstanding item there, so how would this version turn out?

Smoky, luscious, fatty. The Toro no Kunsei and Takuan no Kunsei were both very enjoyable and a nice Sake pairing. :slight_smile: But if you look very closely, we both felt that Maru-san’s preparation at Mori Sushi was just that much better, more intense, more refined, more flavorful as well.

Kanidofu - Crab-Infused Housemade Tofu:

For the 2nd Tofu preparation, Take-san makes a Kanidofu, or Tofu infused with Crab, in-house. This was nicely oceanic, tasting of Crab essence, but still maintaining a silkiness in the Housemade Tofu.

The overall Opening Course was fun, a great opener, and it feels like a signature of L.A. Sushi these days. It doesn’t top Maru-san at Mori Sushi, but this Opening Course is still enjoyable and a great start to our meal. :slight_smile:

Madai Kobujime - Red Snapper Marinated in Kelp:

Take-san starts off our Nigiri Sushi course with Madai (Japanese Sea Bream) marinated in Kelp. It’s pleasingly light, with a delicate chew; a nice way to set the palate.

One of the marks of a great Sushi Chef that we enjoy is being able to hold a good conversation with the customer. What makes Take-san standout from many of the local Itamae is his friendly, gregarious personality. He loves chatting it up with the customer. :slight_smile:

He shares a story of how he and Yoshi-san (Chef-Owner of Kaneyoshi Sushi) are good friends, and they’ve great friends since working together back in Osaka. Neat.

Kasugodai - Baby Red Snapper - Shizuoka, Japan:

The next piece was a nice contrast in flavor and texture of the same Fish essentially: Kasugodai is a Baby Red Snapper as Take-san puts it, and it was a nice way to explore the differences between this younger version of the Fish and the previous adult version (in the Madai).

This one was wrapped with a Sakura Leaf which lent it that gorgeous florality that only Sakura can impart.

Kurodai - Black Snapper - Chiba, Japan:

Outstanding! :heart: That perfect balance of lean and fatty, but with a more taut meat than something like Toro. One of the highlights of the meal. :blush:

Hotate - Scallop - Hokkaido, Japan:

Served with a touch of Yuzu citrus, today’s Hokkaido Scallop was very good. Silky, tender, supple.

Tatsuriki - Yokawa Yoneda - Junmai Daiginjo Sake (Hyogo, Japan):

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In a massive upgrade from Shin Sushi’s original Sake menu (when he only had 2 selections), we’re happy to see Take-san take our recommendation to heart a few years back, to add Tatsuriki. Yokawa Yoneda Junmai Daiginjo has come recommended by a few friends, and I was excited to try this finally. It was crisp, with a lot of depth, but it surprisingly had a bit of an alcoholic tinge, before settling down and finishing smooth. Perhaps it was a bad bottle, or that is the style.

But given that, we much prefer Tatsuriki’s flagship Akitsu Junmai Daiginjo, which Mori Sushi carries, as well as Nihon no Sakura Junmai Daiginjo. Again, it was enjoyable, but compared to the other 2 Tatsuriki we’ve had, this was our 3rd favorite.

Hon Maguro - Bluefin Tuna - Mexico:

This was a solid preparation for it. Not the best we’ve had, but just fine.

Yuki Masu - Snow Trout - Nagano, Japan:

Another signature item of Shin Sushi these days is Yuki Masu, or Snow Trout. In fact, we haven’t seen this offered at any of the other local top Sushi-yas, so it’s a nice touch that Take-san is establishing. The Yuki Masu on this visit was flawless. The best version we’ve had in our ~5 - 6 visits. I loved the light torching on top, imparting a smokiness, as well as the inherent fattiness and lean meat balance of the Snow Trout. Highlight of the evening! :heart: :heart:

Miso Fish Bone Broth:

And Take-san takes different types of Fish bones on this visit and cooks this down for hours so it’s almost like a rich “Tonkotsu Broth” in a way, but with Fish. It’s lightly smoky, surprisingly rich and luscious. :heart:

Menegi - Tokyo Green Onions - Japan:

We’re glad to see the Menegi return. It’s seemingly “basic” but the thin Tokyo Green Onions are amazing, Spring-like, refreshing and it resets the palate. :blush:

Shima Aji - Striped Jack - Miyagi, Japan:

Very good, a nice firmness, but still nicely balanced.

Ohtoro - Fattiest Tuna Belly - Mexico:

Take-san flash grills this over Binchotan charcoal to help release some of the oils. The result is a smoky, super fatty, decadent bite of Ohtoro, a different way to experience it. :heart:

It should be noted, Take-san’s Shari, his Sushi Rice, is fine. We like the balanced usage of Vinegar, and it’s not overcooked, but it’s definitely not as standout as Maru-san’s fantastic Rice at Mori Sushi, as a point of comparison. Still, it’s sufficient.

Donchichi Aji - Special Spanish Mackerel - Shimane, Japan:

Take-san shares about how the Aji (Spanish Mackerel) that he’s serving on this visit is a special variation called Donchichi Aji, which is a higher quality Aji, fattier as well. This was quite good, and there definitely tasted a bit more of a lush quality to it.

Botan Ebi - Botan Shrimp Aged 2 Days - Santa Barbara, U.S.A.:

This was unusual in that it was aged 2 days before serving. Take-san confides in us that he doesn’t like the meat texture of an instantly dispatched Live Spot Prawn (that we usually see at various local Sushi joints), so he gets the Live Spot Prawns from Santa Barbara, dispatches them, but then lets it age 2 days before serving it. He feels the texture is better.

And taking a bite: It is indeed less “muscular” and less firm and taut, it has a nice mouthfeel, softened a bit, but we actually prefer the freshly dispatched Live Botan Ebi more.

Ji Kinmedai - Golden Eye Snapper - Chiba, Japan:

This Ji Kinme (Special Golden Eye Snapper) is also finished lightly grilled over Binchotan charcoal imparting a nice smokiness. Lovely flavors with the natural light fat & lean portions. It’s also quite flavorful in general, but not overly oily like Hikarimono (Silver Skinned Fish).

Bafun Uni - Sea Urchin - Hokkaido, Japan:

This was the one miss of the evening: One of the worst pieces of Uni we’ve had in years(!). :frowning: It was just going bad, having a very heavy stench of bad ocean water. This was not pleasant. :disappointed_relieved: It shouldn’t have been served.

Tamago - Egg:

And the mark of the end of the Omakase meal, Take-san brings out his Homemade Tamago (Egg), prepared Omelette-style, mixed with Ume (Japanese Plum). This was fragrant, piquant savory and just one of the better Tamago we’ve had in a while. :heart:

Yuki Masu - Snow Trout - Nagano, Japan (Part 2):

The Yuki Masu (Snow Trout) was so good we had to order another round just to experience it again. And… just as stunning as the first bite earlier! Smoky, fatty, pleasing mouthfeel. Wonderful! :heart: :heart:

Torotaku Temaki - Fatty Tuna Belly mixed with Smoked Pickled Daikon Radish Hand Roll:

Normally a Torotaku Handroll is amazing already. But when Take-san takes Fatty Tuna Belly and chops it up with his Housemade Takuan no Kunsei (Smoked Pickled Daikon Radish)? You have magic!

It’s decadent, luscious, fatty, high-quality Toro (Fatty Tuna Belly), chopped and minced with the crunchiness of Takuan, but it’s smoked! So you get crunchy and light smoky, and all wrapped up in a decent Nori wrapper (not crispy enough like Maru-san’s legendary Nori), and you have another highlight of the evening! :heart: :heart:

Tofu Mousse Kuromitsu:

Another signature of Shin Sushi, Take-san makes his own Tofu Mousse in-house, which results in a light, airy texture that indeed seems like a traditional “Mousse” but it’s made with Tofu(!). It’s finished with a Kuromitsu (a Japanese Black Sugar Syrup).

Shin Sushi continues to deliver a solid Sushi Omakase experience. In comparison with the rest of the top tier Sushi bars in L.A., it doesn’t surpass the best, but it’s Top 5 for a few key reasons. First, the heart and soul of the restaurant, Chef-Owner Taketoshi Azumi. Take-san is affable, warm, outgoing, really fun to chat with and he’s a jokester. He makes you feel welcome and livens up the evening just by himself, even if no one else wants to talk. That’s one of the great things about finding your favorite Sushi Bars: Building that rapport and Take-san is the most gregarious of all the top Itamae in L.A., bar none.

Secondly, the overall value: For the quality of the Fish you are getting (and solid Shari), there are enough highlights here to warrant repeat visits, especially for the price of his Omakase, which right now during the pandemic and supply chain issues and price hikes everywhere lands in the ~$170 - $200 range. Most of the unproven places in L.A. (new Sushi-ya, those without a Michelin Star and those that are just hype) start at $250 per person now. And certain top places command $350 - 400 per person. In light of the industry right now, Shin Sushi is a bargain, and deserving of its 1 Michelin Star.

We hope Take-san continues to hone his craft, improve the Fish selection and perhaps branch out to more Shellfish, and build out his Sake menu some more, but for overall value and the chance to chat and learn / hear stories from Take-san? Shin Sushi remains a charming local favorite.

Shin Sushi
16573 Ventura Blvd.
Encino, CA 91436
Tel: (818) 616-4148

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Update 2:

We weren’t planning on going out for Sushi for a bit, but a good friend wanted to celebrate her birthday and loved Shin Sushi, so it was time for another visit. :slight_smile:

Koshi no Kanbai - Kinmuku “Milky Way” - Junmai Daiginjo Sake (Niigata, Japan):

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Koshi no Kanbai has always been a great Sake lineup. Their Kinmuku “Milky Way” Junmai Daiginjo Sake has got this nice roundness, robust, nice fruity sweetness, but still a clean finish, no alcohol burn. Just a great Sake to start things off with and pair with the opening course. :slight_smile:

(Zensai Course) Seasonal Vegetables (Myoga Ginger, Okra, Eggplant); Edo Tsubugai (Whelk); Toro to Takuan no Kunsei (Smoked Fatty Tuna Belly); Wasabi Tofu; Kanidofu (Crab Tofu); Sawagani (Japanese River Crab):

While not as elaborate as Mori Sushi’s Zensai, Take-san’s opening course is still quite pleasurable and features a nice array of seasonal offerings to start the meal.

Poached Seasonal Vegetables (Myoga, Fresh Ginger, Okra, Eggplant) + Karashi Miso:

We start with gently Poached Seasonal Vegetables, with a Karashi Miso (Japanese Mustard Miso) as a condiment. These are all wonderful, light and refreshing. The Myoga from Japan, a young Ginger, was sharply contrasted with the Fresh Ginger from the U.S.A., a nice exploration.

Edo Tsubugai - Whelk (Hokkaido, Japan):

The Edo Tsubugai, a type of Japanese Whelk was plump, nicely infused with a gentle Dashi, with a delicate chew.

Toro no Kunsei (Smoked Fatty Tuna Belly) + Takuan no Kunsei / Iburigakko (Smoked Pickled Daikon Radish):

As before, it seems Take-san’s time at Mori Sushi and one of Maru-san’s signature items has become a signature for Take-san here at Shin Sushi as well (and that’s totally fine): Because taking a bite of the gently smoked Takuan (Pickled Daikon Radish) and the Toro no Kunsei (Smoked Fatty Tuna Belly) is so pleasurable, bringing a smile to your face at how exquisite the smoke and sweet Pickled Daikon Radish flavor is, as well as the insane smoke and focused fat of the Toro (Tuna Belly).

Sawagani (Japanese River Crab):

As with the previous visit, this adorable deep fried Sawagani (Japanese River Crab) has been cooked to a perfectly brittle, crunchy texture, so you can eat the entire tiny River Crab as is. It is crunchy, lightly oceanic and delicious.

Wasabi Tofu:

The Housemade Wasabi Tofu is silken, slippery and nicely infused with fresh-grated Wasabi Root paired with the Tofu.

Kanidofu - Crab-Infused Housemade Tofu:

This is also quite tasty, a real Crab flavor infusion in this other Housemade Tofu creation.

On to the Nigiri Sushi portion.

Madai no Kobujime - Adult Red Snapper (Akashi, Japan):

A nice starter, Take-san marinates Madai (Adult Red Snapper) with Konbu (Kelp) to help enhance the flavors before serving. Light, clean whitefish to start.

Kasugodai - Baby Red Snapper (Kyushu, Japan):

In a nice contrast, Take-san next presents Kasugodai, which is a Baby Red Snapper, wrapped with a Sakura (Japanese Cherry Blossom) Leaf. The contrast is interesting and telling, with the Kasugodai had a slightly more gentle mouthfeel, lightly herbal and aromatic from the Sakura Leaf.

Kurodai-Zuke - Black Snapper (Oita, Japan):

Next was Kurodai (Black Snapper) that Take-san marinates in a special Soy Sauce blend before serving. Tender, but firm, with a decent amount of fat as well.

It should be noted that Shin Sushi’s Shari (Sushi Rice) has settled into a solid offering. It’s not top tier like Maru-san’s Shari at Mori Sushi, but good, not overcooked, nor too dry, a decent Vinegar balance. His Shari was certainly better than his brother’s over at Kogane that we tried recently, so it was fresh in our minds.

Hotate - Scallop (Hokkaido, Japan):

A very good Hotate (Scallop) prep, served simply with some Yuzu (Japanese Citrus) and Sea Salt. This was fresh and silken as expected.

Kuzuryu (Nine-Headed Dragon) - Daiginjo Sake (Fukui, Japan):

A beautiful label and calligraphy, thankfully the liquid inside matches the splendor here. :wink: For those that may not know, Kuzuryu (Nine-Headed Dragon) is the sister line of Kokuryu (Black Dragon) (such awesome names!), and this Daiginjo Sake was fabulous in pairing with our next Sushi items. Very clean, pure, focused flavors, just a great Sake bottle. :slight_smile:

Akami-Zuke - Lean Bluefin Tuna Portion (Boston, U.S.A.):

Take-san chats with us about how tonight’s Tuna was over 250 pounds(!), and he was quite happy with this Akami (Lean Tuna) portion that he flash marinated in a special Soy Sauce blend before serving. This Akami today was outstanding! A deep, rich concentration of like the best Tuna flavors you remember, brought out masterfully in this bite. One of the highlights of the meal. :heart:

Shinshu Masu - Freshwater Trout (Nagano, Japan):

Since his signature offering of Yuki Masu (Snow Trout) was out of season, Take-san on this visit was offering a Shinshu Masu, a Freshwater Trout from Nagano, Japan instead. This started with a nice oily and lean balance, but ended with a touch of dirt aftertaste, unfortunately. Definitely not as great as the Yuki Masu he normally serves (which is wonderful).

Fish Bone Miso Soup:

Another item that Take-san seems to be offering consistently is his Housemade Fish Bone Miso Soup, which is pretty phenomenal: There is this insane concentrated flavor of the most delicate Fish Broth you can remember, balanced with a lighter Miso. It is nourishing and really wonderful. Highlight! :heart:

Menegi - Tokyo Green Onions - Japan:

Another signature item at Shin Sushi, Take-san seems to be developing his voice with some key items that make his restaurant stand out from his rivals. The Menegi Sushi sounds a bit simple, Tokyo Green Onions atop some Sushi Rice, but the flavor is outstanding! Bright, Spring-like, a gentle onion-y flavor, but not overwhelming. It’s a great intermission in the parade of Sushi.

Botan Ebi - Spot Prawn (Santa Barbara, U.S.A.):

Take-san shares with everyone that he doesn’t like the texture of freshly dispatched Live Sweet Shrimp / Spot Prawns seen at many restaurants. He feels it’s too firm and taut, so he gets Live Spot Prawns, dispatches them, then ages them 2 days before serving for a better texture that Take-san prefers.

The taste is excellent: It is indeed, less taut, less musculature, but still slippery, fresh-tasting, but softer. It was very good, but I think we actually like the texture of freshly dispatched Live Spot Prawns more.

Ohtoro - Fattiest Tuna Belly (Boston, U.S.A.):

The Ohtoro is finished with a quick sear over charcoal, releasing some of the fat, and adding a touch of smokiness. This was definitely tasty.

Aji - Spanish Mackerel (Fukuoka, Japan):

This was crisp in flavor, clean and tasty. However, having just had the Omakase course with Maru-san at Mori Sushi very recently, there was no comparison: Maru-san’s Aji was far better. There was a massive depth of flavor, the mouthfeel, taste, preparation, everything about it.

Kinmedai - Golden Eye Snapper (Chiba, Japan):

Take-san also uses a quick charcoal sear for this Kinmedai before serving. A delicate smokiness, this was a textbook, good example, lightly fatty and lean.

Uni - Sea Urchin (Mexico):

This was pungent, in a bad ocean water way. :frowning: It had a bit of creaminess, but this was so disappointing and not pleasant in comparison to great Uni from Santa Barbara or Hokkaido, that this felt like a misstep.

Anago - Sea Eel (Oita, Japan):

Finished with Yuzu citrus, this Sea Eel was creamy, meaty, but had just a touch of dirt aftertaste on this visit.

Ume Shiso Tamago - Japanese Plum + Shiso Leaf Egg:

Signaling the end of the Omakase Sushi dinner, Take-san’s Tamago offering on this visit was still quite good, prepared in a Dashimaki (Japanese Omelet with Dashi) style, it was moist, and the Ume Shiso combination was spot-on. :slight_smile:

Toro Takuan Temaki - Fatty Tuna Belly + Pickled Daikon Radish Hand Roll:

We asked for a Temaki (Hand Roll) to finish off the evening, and Take-san obliged with a stunning Toro Takuan (Fatty Tuna Belly with diced up Pickled Daikon Radish). It was luscious, fatty, with a perfect crunchy texture from the Takuan, and the Nori (Seaweed) was crisp. :heart:

Shima Aji - Striped Jack (Oita, Japan):

For the bonus round, we asked if there were any other offerings he didn’t serve yet, and Take-san mentioned he was happy with the Shima Aji he just got in. This was outstanding! That beautiful balance of fat & lean meat in a great Shima Aji offering was present here. :heart:

Tofu Mousse Kuromitsu:

And for Dessert, Take-san continues to offer a signature item, his Housemade Tofu Mousse, served with a beautiful Kuromitsu (Japanese Black Sugar Syrup).

For this return visit to Shin Sushi, it was an enjoyable evening, with a good to very good lineup, with a few noteworthy highlights. But having just visited Maru-san and Mori Sushi for their Omakase dinner, the difference between these two places becomes very clear: Maru-san & Mori Sushi has better Shari (Sushi Rice), the fish preparation, knife work and overall execution of flavor is just a notch above as well. The Zensai (Opening Course), is outstanding as well. The Sake List is superior, and the list goes on.

However, this doesn’t mean Shin Sushi isn’t a worthwhile destination: Far from it. It has its own strengths, starting with the value. This remains in the $170 - $200 range (depending on ingredients for the day, if you added any extra pieces), which is unheard of these days for a full Omakase dinner (where the majority are in the $250 - $350+ range). It is the lowest priced Omakase out of L.A.'s top Sushi-ya, cheaper than even the lesser known / newer places that are trending. And Shin Sushi has been better than many of them.

Add in the fact that as an Itamae, Chef-Owner Taketoshi Azumi is probably the most affable and wise-cracking Sushi Chef out of the top places as well, and it makes it even more of a pleasure to stop by. :slight_smile: He loves cracking jokes, he makes everyone feel welcome, and has some standout items as well. It’s for these reasons Shin Sushi remains in our rotation and has become a favorite with many of our friends.

Shin Sushi
16573 Ventura Blvd.
Encino, CA 91436
Tel: (818) 616-4148

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Nice run down thanks @Chowseeker1999

I’m always amazed at how you can snap pictures of every piece. It’s sure appreciated and enjoyed by this reader. No calories or dollars! But I’d sure rather be enjoying that sushi and appreciate how this spot does a few things differently while also playing the hits. Personally I like no sear on the toro but I would not turn that lovely piece away.

Cheers!

2 Likes

Hi @chienrouge ,

Thanks! :slight_smile: Hopefully it’s useful to some folks out there. Yah, if you feel like a splurge sushi omakase dinner at a great value (compared to most top places around town), Shin Sushi is the place. I also like Toro without a sear, but Take-san did a good job on this one. :slight_smile: