That passage caught my eye for a different reason. If the “prizes” were a response to “the imperative to suit the more delicate palates of the erstwhile colonial rulers,” wouldn’t “Goan vindaloo (a spicy potato preparation)” be rejected by said rulers?
And I’m always wary of articles that fail to acknowledge that the assimilation/appropriation/whatever goes both ways. Just yesterday, I read an article in the New York Times about dish called “cheese buldak,” a Korean version of chicken parmesan, which is Italian/American. Why throw mozzarella on top of what started out as a traditional Korean dish? Because according to the article, “It makes the dish appear a little more Western, … which means it can be sold at a premium.”
