Although this piece is focussed on Denmark (and does more to dismantle the fabulous PR work of that ‘happiest nation’ ) it also raises the crucial question we’re seeing everywhere: what is the true cost of fine dining?
As an aside, a piece on exceptionally long hours and
intense demands had me thinking about the work Top Chef does to make this culture ok. They present it as natural, part of the consumer’s fun, and part of a rewards system that is more fantasy than reality.
ETA: ugh: I was able to access it when I originally clicked on the link, but now it asks for trial subscription. Sorry. I’ll see if there are alternatives but maybe one of you HOs know.
https://www.ft.com/content/a62a96b8-2db2-44ec-ac80-67fcf83d86ef?sharetype=blocked&fs=e&s=cl
