I make this separate from the “Good Eats,” as this is definitely a destination restaurant. A total throwback to another time (I think maybe my grandmother’s). But done with such finesse and panache, that under the right circumstances (my holiday gift to my foodie cousin), it is a total pleasure. Chip is in the kitchen and his partner Tina is the maître (maîtresse?) d’hôtel. She oversees everything from the reservations book (yup, that’s right, you have to call and make the reservation; nothing online) to making sure that everyone in the dining room is eating, drinking and making merry. When you make the reservation, the outgoing message is clear that this is a “dress up” (“more like Madmen than Grubhub”) kind of place, and that cell phones are not appreciated at the table. I put on a dress (in the dead of winter) and heels and make-up even, and had fun doing so.
The menu is handwritten; echoes for me of Chanterelle, the first fancy restaurant I fell in love with. When it closed, it wasn’t far from where Eulalie is now, and somewhere I have at least one of the handwritten menus from that restaurant. There’s a small choice of appetizer and main course (three of each), and some extras the chef just sends to every table. We had an exceptional meal (no cell phone/no pictures) ending with both of us ordering our own coconut cake for dessert. (This is probably my favorite dessert, and since the Montecito Café closed at the Montecito Inn in CA, I have not had one this good.) But every dish that came to the table was delicious and interesting. The mid-course from the chef was a riff on a quenelle, but made with mushrooms and veal (maybe?) in a sauce that had a few buttery croutons in it. We both ate the chicken dish as a main. Truffles under the skin of the breast. A different preparation (maybe with the liver) of the thigh, some pomme purée and gravy, served with a demitasse of consommé that reminded me absolutely of my grandmother’s table in the nicest way. (They left the gravy serving jug on the table in case we wanted more than they served. Also, the wine bottles, and at one point Tina came by and topped up what had already been a generous pour.)
We had the wine pairings, also interesting and delicious. I had asked if we could get a list, but then forgot about it at the end of the meal. The meal is $125. Dessert and cheese extra, à la carte (we skipped the cheese, no way we could eat more). And wine pairings $95. So, it was expensive. But so, so fun.
Walked out and a cabbie out front asked if I needed a cab. I did. Turns out he has known the couple for years, and he takes them home after shuttling their guests most nights. He also was a delight. And Tina and Chip, turns out, are neighbors of mine! Ahhh, New York.
