England in April: Starting in London, then Stow-on-the-Wold & ...

NW Montana seems to have stalled halfway between late winter and early Spring, so I am off to sunny warm England!!! Yeah, I saw some flaws in that thought process from the git-go, but it was worth a shot.
View south of Kalispell.

I flew into Heathrow and it was a quick, smooth process of a long walk to customs, polite greeting, skeptical study of me, then off to the Elizabeth Line to downtown London. London has the coolest assortment of trains, from the relatively new, spacious and bright Elizabeth Line to the cramped tubular 54 year old (am I getting this right? It is 1972 stock?) Bakerloo trainsets. But Elizabeth drops me at Paddington Station which is just a kilometer from my AirBNB in Notting Hill Gate/Queensway so it was off to the races, albeit at a relatively tired pace after 20’some hours of travel.
I stumbled over the Bayswater Arms and ordered a steak and ale pie, and got what appeared to be a factory made pie that was not the best welcome to the UK I could have imagined. But the bar tender was a good sort and there were a couple real ales from the cask, which was a nice treat.

Then I slept for what seemed like days but was just 10 or 12 hours. And woke famished so I went in search of an English Breakfast with all the fixin’s! And ended up at Fluffy Fluffy, twice in two days, for souffle pancakes, first pistachio then the “Signature” with fresh (?) berries and bananas. And both were very, very sweet and good. And the coffees were ok as well. But this whole sweet breakfast thing is beginning to pull me in like some sort of addiction, it started in Chiang Mai and it is getting worse.

I saw a Creme Brulee pancake on the menu and I can see where this leads…
Anyway, I hopped the bus to Wandsworth Bridge Road…

This is a silly question, but why are they pollarded on the right and not on the left? Am I missing something?
Anyway, I walked over to the pier for the Uber Thames Boat, where I saw that they were ready to leave right as I arrived at the head of the pier. And they waited for me. In a large city. They held the boat. I was pretty tickled.

Love the Belfast and Tower Bridge. Love them.

Got off at Greenwich where I saw the uniform Horatio Nelson was shot in. Kind of macabre, but it is history! You can see the tiny little hole where the bullet went into his shoulder…

Then it was off to the Greenwich observatory, which was very cool.

And the Cutty Sark! And the Shawarma guy next to the Cutty Sark!

Pretty darned good!
And an early evening tour of the East End and a mix of Indian and Bangladeshi cafes. Here, I may be missing a few, but I think we had Pakhora and Dahl Baht at Cafe Grill, which were good but not great. For me, I think a good pakhora is all about the dipping sauce. But that may solely be because Gharer Kabar in Arlington had a great tamarind dipping sauce for their Fuchaka/Pani Puri. And I am not quite clear on the differences between pakhora, fuchaka and pani puri.
Excellent lassi at Cafe Grill, though.

Then we were off to another part of Brick Lane, the Eastern Eye Balti House for Saag, Karahi Chicken and another Dal Baht dish, all of which were good but the Karahi Chicken ruled the roost. So to speak.

Our guide shared some “magic Masala” crisps with us, which to my disappointment had none of the results my magic mushrooms that i had in Ko Phangan.

Then we visited Madhubon Sweet Center, which had a dizzying array of sweet dishes. I had something I can not even begin to pronounce but it was condensed milk based and rich.

And we finally ended up in Lahore Kabob House for Chicken Kabobs, Naan and lamb chops. The kabobs were outstanding, the lamb chops were thin and a bit greasy. Stick with the kabobs and leave happy!

The next morning i returned to Fluffy Fluffy.

Later it was off to a park/hostel that I stayed at back in 1994. The hostel was allowed to cut a small hole in the shrubs that separated them from the Opera Holland Park. One bench where four people, were allowed to watch for free. We took it in turns and I got to watch “I am the very model of a modern major general” from Pirates of Penzance. What a great experience! But I could not get in to see if the opening was still there. :pensive_face:
So I went to the Kyoto Garden and thought about life and its unexpected twists and turns, instead.

I returned to the Notting Hill area for a “Local and Wild” lunch tasting. Started with a tiny eclair, some rather nice Sussex Padron Peppers, moved on to a rather mundane smoked trout, a dish described as a Somerset Goat Cheese Agnolotti that I do not remember, an incredibly tough but rich pork belly that nearly got unintentionally ejected across the dining area and a rather nice bit of Sussex Lamb. And an Adnams Gin “Loosener” to tie it all together. Nicely done, The Shed!

And this “honeycomb” thing that was nice but tenaciously stuck to my teeth.

I finished up my London stay with a return to Dishoom, where I ordered a rather good Pau Bhaji, which was nicely rich, just spicy enough, and slightly confusing for me. I am not sure if the buns I was served are the usual vector for eating this dish. I just sliced them open and filled them with the goods. A nice treat!

Then I tried the Chicken Berry Britannia biryani, which was nice but slightly under-spiced. Oddly enough, it almost tasted better when I finished off the remains the next morning.

After Dishoom I sat for a time in Postman’s Park where they have wall plaques that commemorate the acts of heroes who lost their lives trying to help others. It is a sad sort of subject but one worth remembering, nonetheless.

And it has spiky tulips. Which is odd.

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Fantastic report (as usual). I’d rather trip in Ko Phangan than London, TBH :smiley:

Food looks great, the accoutrements for the shwarma in particular! As luck would have it, we may well make it to London this summer for a few days.

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Another of your trademark great reports! Love all the pics! You should get a proper full English breakfast in the countryside.

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Good to see the capital has fed you reasonably well.

I came across Postmans Park many, many years back. I was staying nearby and was out fro a wander one evening. It’s an interesting, quirky space.

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Nice! London is on my list for next year!

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my 2 favourite places in London for a splurge Full English breakfast (i guess for when you visit London the next time, if you’re interested :slightly_smiling_face:):

The Ivy (multiple locations)

The Wolseley on Piccadilly.
…

Make sure you also try an old school Cafe (pronounced Caff), the equivalent to a greasy spoon or diner. Lots of good ppl watching.

Big British and Irish Breakfasts

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Yes, the soft buns are the usual accompaniments to the spicy melange for this dish. Normally, you just break off parts of the bun and dip into the sauce, just like for paratha.

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Borough Market is very much a tourist destination these days. But Maria’s Market Café will do you an excellent cooked breakfast, including “bubble & squeak”, which you’re unlikely to come across outside London.

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honeycomb is called sponge toffee in Canada and parts of the States

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What an AMAZING report, and an amazing trip! Your pictures are wonderful, your meals look superb.

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Agreed! A must-visit.

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London is always a treat, but after a few days it was time to go so I was off to Paddington Station for a quick trip on the Great Western Railroad through Oxford (no stopping) to Moreton-in-Marsh.

I debarked and immediately walked straight into the Tuesday Market. And made a major life error. There was a vendor selling plaid flat hats for just £4. And I did not buy one. I am disappointed in myself. But the 801 bus was loading down the street so I hustled down and used my Google Wallet to pay and took a seat. It is interesting how much easier and enjoyable buses are in other countries now that I just use my phone to pay. The little conveniences…
My first stop in Stow-on-the-wold was to the Kings Arms for dinner and their braised beef blade sounded good, and turned out to be very good indeed, especially with the Tribute Ale! Very nice staff, too!

I went back two days later for the braised lamb and while fairly good, it was more than a touch dry and not as good as the beef.

I blame this on the lamb I saw giving me the evil eye a few hours before I ordered the lamb. She is documented here, later.

This is out of order but the gelato is from the Box Bush in Bourton, with my favorite house in the background.

On the “middle day” of my stay I decided to take a moderate walk from Stow through Oddington to Chastleton House and then take the 801 home. It was a pleasant walk to Maugersbury, where the phone booth I was told to turn at turned out to be a lending library. I rather like that.

Then things turned south. So to speak. I have walked a good bit in the UK over the past 30’some years and the footpaths here vary from rather nice to frankly amazing. My walk to Chastleton will rank as the most irritating walk I have taken, ever, in the UK. McMillan Way is half on roads and one of them is a very busy A-road with high speed traffic right where the hikers are supposed to be crossing a narrow railway bridge with no shoulders or footpath. When I saw drivers looking at me in shock like they thought they might hit me, I backed up and tried to go North around the bridge. Trail cut off by a home owner. So I went south, and the trail just died out, so I went further south and took a road around the bridge and finally arrived at Daylesford, where I stopped by St. Peter’s Church to dry off my socks and boots and take a breather.

So I am in a great mood again and ramble up the road, to another high speed road with no shoulder to walk on… It is funny now, and the Ordnance Survey map clearly shows that the trail follows the road so the blame is on me. But man I was steaming after the third or fourth time I had to climb into the brambles to stay out of the way of a car. But I got back to a backcountry trail and all was good, for 500 meters where I realized that the trail was closed for exactly one day, the day I wanted to use it, for tree trimming. So I back tracked again and walked around the Evenlode River to come at Adlestrop from the west instead of the southwest. But I was back on the footpath and all was good! Lambs gamboling, horses grazing, very nice scenery…

All the early irritations were behind me and the walk was all good again. Chastleton House was built around 1610 and stayed in the same family until relatively recently with very few renovations or changes. The National Trust acquired it in 1991 after years of minimal care. The Trust actually leaves buckets under the old drip points in the rooms on the upper level to remind people that it was not entirely cared for over the years. Now it has a has a new roof, updated electricity and much of its original furniture but it has NOT been renovated. It is kept in a state of “controlled decay” with rooms heated enough to not further damage them and kitchen equipment wired to keep moisture to a minimum. Beautiful shambles of a place. Loved it!

Better yet, the ladies of the area prepare desserts and sell them from the inside of St. Mary’s Church, right next door to the mansion. I had two slices of cake, it had been a long walk. With tea, £9. Great deal and I hope they make a ton of money!

I also visited Bourton-on-the-Water, which is a touristy but lovely little village chockablock full of punters and gelatto shops. This sign is the one through hikers fear the most. LOL!

And it had the most beautiful house I have seen in years. Loved it. Right beside the Windrush River and green even early’ish in Springtime.

The Cornish Bakery was nice but the Pasty was only so-so.
Some riders walking through town.

I also had a jacket potato & sweet corn with chili and three cheeses that was really tasty at Spud
Station. Owner is very nice and the place is well worth visiting. The combo I got is the Banger on their list of named dishes. Well worth a try though it is a LOT of food.

Sorry this is more photo related and less food related, I am surrounded by beautiful landscapes all day and only eating out twice. :slightly_smiling_face:
I had a major photo melt-down yesterday, so I am trying to download photos from my Mac instead of using my phone, here is hoping this works out!

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Loved reading about this part of your trip…although I think I was reading as you were editing and adding different pictures - hope the photo meltdown is fixed and you can continue to entertain us with your trip!

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And since I love history, I went and looked up Chastleton House at the National Trust. For anyone else who wants more detail on its history, here you go. Fascinating.

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Your travel reports may just be my favorite thing in this forum. Thank you for sharing with us :folded_hands:t2:

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Love the state of controlled decay. It sounds like my aging process!

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Linda, this entry has been a bit more chaotic in its entry than most, but it has turned out pretty close to what I intended! I am a history person too, so thank you for the link so others can see some of the background!
Natascha, thank you very much! It means a great deal to me that you like these posts!
TheLibrarian, we share that trait a great deal! And one of the aspects of my “Oh, so bad hiking day” is that I made a major error in that I ignored the trail info given to me by the Stow-on-the-Wold Librarian and relied instead on an Ordnance Survey map! I have found that Librarians may not know everything, but they can find good info on it if you give them time! LOL! The sheets the librarian gave me indirectly advised that I ignore the McMillan Way and use other footpaths, as did the head docent at Chastleton House. Ignore a librarian’s advice at your peril!

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Thanks for the librarian compliments. We don’t know everything but we’re great at tracking things down. I was trained never to say “sorry I can’t help you”.

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It’s some years since I was last in Stow. We popped in to the parish church and I spotted an unusual name on its memorial to the Great War dead. It commemorated H Butters, “An American citizen”. Worthy of some research I thought (which resulted in his inclusion in my book about food during the War some info about Harry Butters.

He was a Californian by birth and residence. Residence, that is, apart from a years schooling in the UK. He came from a middle class family. When War was declared in 1914, Harry felt our cause was just and he should be part of it. He upped sticks and arrived in London in February 1915, moving after a couple of days to stay with friends in Stow. He immediately applied to become an officer and was commissioned as a 2nd Lieutenant in the Royal Warwickshire Regiment before being transferred to the Artillery. He went on active service in September 1915.

And, yes, this is a food story.

In the November, he wrote home to his mother “The gorgeous package arrived today… Did you make the hot cakes?Had two Canadians to lunch and we polished off the whole lot, with butter and, luxury of luxories, hot maple syrup. The corn formed the first vegetable course and was positively lovely. I just thought that if you can get Campbells tomato soup it would be nice. I’m saving the Huntley & Palmer biscuits for the road but am chewing a raisin right now.”

Harry was killed in action on 31 August 1916, aged 24. He had been hit by an incoming gas shell.

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That is a story worth remembering. The part about Campbell’s Tomato Soup strikes home. That was one of my favorites when I was growing up. I do not think I have tasted it for 40 years, though.
This makes me want to buy a can and have it for lunch in honor of Harry Butters.
The WWI and WWII memorials in the UK are a huge reminder of how hard the wars hit this country. Small villages (that may have been larger back in the day, but were still small) have huge memorials with dozens of names etched in stone. You can see last names listed multiple times on many of the memorials, a reminder of how some families were impacted over and over.
I took a photo of a field of paper (?) poppies that were planted in the grass at the Tower of London with Tower Bridge in the background 80 years after the end of WWII. That is a price that people still remember and honor.

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