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Chongqing Noodles at Chongqing Special Noodles

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Chongqing Special Noodles was feted by the late Jonathan Gold for its workmanlike charm, and with good reason. There’s a lot to like here, including the no-frills cold appetizers, the free chicken with numbing hot sauce and, of course, the Chongqing noodles. It’s deadly quiet in here most afternoons, with only a murmur of a kitchen hood in the background, and the occasion clicking of plastic chopsticks.

At a scant $7, the massive portion of Chongqing noodles comes steeped in spicy sauce, topped with ground pork and a fried egg. They pack a manageable amount of heat and numbing spice, with the peppercorn leaving an almost pine-like scent in the finish.