[Didsbury, Manchester] No. 4 - December 2024

By no means the first time we’ve eaten at No. 4 this year but the first time I’ve written about it.

One of the things I like about No. 4 is that, as soon as you walk through the door, you just know everything is going to be fine. From the warm greeting, an offer of a drink, and a menu full of things you just know you’d enjoy eating. It’s why we keep coming back.

There’s a smoked haddock Scotch egg – crisp coating with a fishy interior and an egg cooked just right. It sits on a puddle of mayo spiked with a hint of curry spices. Another fishy starter across the table in the form of smoked salmon. A nice texture, sliced a little thicker than you often get and all the better for that. There’s a warm potato cake, some rocket and horseradish crème fraiche. It all really works and it’s a substantial offering.

More fish in one of the main courses, in the form of baked cod, topped with a tomato, herb and mushroom crust. It’s another generous portion – you’re not going away hungry (although you may not want a dessert). There’s spinach for the five-a-day contribution and a lovely wodge of dauphinoise potato. A grain mustard sauce spiked it up but would have stood more mustard. Calves liver, perfectly cooked to a soft pink, is a regular menu item here and rightly so. It’s delicious. Classic accompaniments as well – spuds are mashed, bacon is crisp, onions are deep fried rings, cabbage works well, as does a red wine sauce.

In the event, only one of us could manage a dessert. Yes, that’d be me. And who could resist Paul’s Christmas pudding with brandy custard. ‘Tis the season to be jolly. And greedy. We finished with good espresso and a couple of chocolate petit fours.

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