Desnoyez, Paris 20e

#1

Desnoyez is literally a hole in the wall of a narrow street/alley, famous for its graffiti.

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It is totally chef-driven, the menu short and every dish on target.

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I started with sweetbreads with asparagus, and the asparagus treatment was by far the best of our asparagus-filled visit. Just cooked through, with a drizzle of brown butter from the perfectly crusted, tender sweetbreads.

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Husband ordered the unlikely sounding squid-ink seasoned eggs mayo with poutargue. Amazingly delicious and unexpected.

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l went on to lieu jaune, a mild white fish that was superb: the flesh tender and flaky, the crust shatteringly crisp and delicious. Sat atop unctuous carrot puree. Lovely.

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Husband chose the grilled Duroc pork, declaring it excellent.

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We’re neither of us dessert eaters but were seduced by the chocolate gateau. What a good decision! Fondanty chocolate cake, a splat of lightly whipped cream and the season’s (and usually best) strawberries. We ordered…and surrounded TWO.

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Several glasses of wine and a tiny tab for this generous and very high quality dinner.

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Chef/owner Jean-Marc Sinceux cooks with passion and intelligence. His unlikely spot is one of our top choices.
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#2

Cont.

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Including several glasses of wine and a tiny tab, €98, for this generous and very high quality dinner.

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Chef/owner Jean-Marc Sinceux cooks with passion and intelligence. His unlikely spot is one of our top choices.
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#3

According to Le Desnoyez’s Facebook page and Google maps the restaurant is permanently closed. The owner is apparently looking for a new location.

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#4

Ah, they are closing… that location is special. I liked my meal there.

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#5

Looks like we sneaked in under the wire. While I certainly understand how a larger space makes both functional and economic sense, It always bothers me when a singular, jewel-box restaurant expands. The new property never has the personality, intimacy, charm if you will, as the original. i wish them all good things. And, yes, the alley location did add flavor.

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#6

I suspect the building itself is going down, all the shops were closed nearby.

More reading:

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#7

is this grist for an entirely new non-food discussion? This “street” was famous. It was drawing talented young food people. Le Grand Bain, restaurant, Le Petit Grain, bakery.

And worse to consider, what will go into the new spaces? Another Saphora or L’Occitane?

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#8

Social housing by the city, especially a building with flats for single women, some of the wall would be saved. I think le Grand Bain is to stay, looking at the aspect of the building, but not too sure about le Petit Grain.

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#9

While I certainly understand how a larger space makes both functional and economic sense,

I suppose he had no choice in the matter.

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#10

So lucky!

Well, we will remember the place.

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(Prabhakar Ragde) #11

We had lunch there in January. Was interesting to see what could be done in such a restricted space, and we enjoyed our meal, but it was a bit awkward, to say the least. I can’t really argue with low-cost housing. I hope he’s gotten enough attention that he can quickly ramp up in a new location.

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#12

Also have to take in account Jean-Marc Sinceux, has no formal training as a chef, he was a lawyer-food blogger turned chef.

Hopefully, he could find a place to reopen again soon, as he promised in his FB.

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