Cuenca for two nights

I plan to spend two nights in Cuenca in November, arriving by IRYO train from Madrid. I’ve booked RAFF based on what I’ve read here and elsewhere. CASAS COLGADAS is closed on the two nights we are there, Monday and Tuesday. I am thinking about booking ASADOR DE ANTONIO and just wanted to check with Maribel and others who know Cuenca. A de A has roast baby lamb, which I love, and the menu sounds good, It has a Repsol SOL, I believe. Good choice for second dinner?

At RAFF, we will probably choose a la carte. Any dishes I should not miss? Any preferred seating area(s)?

We are staying at the Parador. Hope their breakfast is good!

At the Parador you’ll want to order your eggs freshly made in the kitchen, any style. They won’t have them on the buffet, or at least they haven’t at any of the Paradors where we’ve stayed in the past year.

Another “institution” for asados (cordero, etc) is MESÓN NAZARENO Y ORO. But they only have a Facebook page.

OLEA COMEDOR, a Bib Gourmand (dinners Wed-Sat only) and ROMERA BISTRO (dinners Thurs-Sat only) serve fusion cuisine, and you won’t be there to try them.

EL FIGÓN DEL HUÉCAR for us was more impressive for the views than the food.

Thanks, Maribel, once again, the old Monday problem!
Exactly the same in Sicily (just returned).

MESON NAZARENO Y ORO looks fantastic! And only 3 reviews in English while 251 in Spanish on TA. There is no way to decide between those two as asadores without flipping a coin, I don’t think! NAZARENO only open for lunch on Tuesday, not dinner.

I’m not surprised that there are only 3 reviews in English.

Cuenca actually doesn’t get that many English-speaking tourists compared to other places because it’s somewhat off the beaten path. Although thanks to the AVE & IRYO Cuenca now sees more foreign visitors.

Many visitors who overnight at the Parador just take their dinners there (and you know how I feel about Parador dining, breakfast being the exception). And for lunch they tend to visit the restaurants in the upper historic quarter that have those impressive views, like El Figón del Huécar with its views of the Huécar River gorge. Actually you might enjoy it, and lamb is on the menu there as well. It is indeed Repsol recommended.

Actually, thinking about it, you may want to ignore completely my comment about El Figón, as it was quite a while ago that we had lunch there. Peruse the menu and the reviews and see what you think.
If you have a hankering for tasting one of the typical Manchegan dishes such as morteruelo, ajoarriero or migas del pastor, this is your place, plus they serve cordero and chuletillas.
It has received a nod at one point (not a star or Bib Gourmand) from Michelin, and there have been lots of reviews there on ViaMichelin.
We were attracted to it for the views and also because it was the former home of the singer (cantautor) José Luis Perales (“Me llamas”–that’s his hit that ages me!)
And El Figón is mentioned in the Elle article that you posted on the other travel forum.

Good grief, Maribel! Of course I want to try the Manchegan dishes!!!
I imagine I could be very happy spending a week in Cuenca now that I’ve been reading about all those places to eat, and reading your comments!!! Truth be told, I am now taking a medication that suppresses my appetite (you will know what I mean)…I may have to cut back for this trip!! But now that I learn how easy it is to get to Cuenca, it may not be my last visit…

Speaking of side trips from Madrid…is Pedraza one that I/everyone should think of visiting? Or Sepulveda? Interesting that STILL there is very little mention in the foreign (English-speaking) press about that area…I have such great memories and I think that I "met’ you when planning that trip; in 2006!

A happy diner after devouring lechazo at the late El Yantar in Pedraza:

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Never for get those “storkies” viewed from our room at the rural hotel you recommended, in Pedraza: Hospederia de Santo Domingo. Excellent!

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Yes, this was the first time my path crossed with yours! How fortuitous for me…how you have had such an incredibly positive impact on so many trips to Spain since then!

I just got an apologetic e-mail letting me know that Raff San Pedro will be on vacation during our two nights in Cuenca. And many restaurants are closed on Mondays, the first day of our stay.

I will book NAZARENO Y ORO for Tuesday late lunch.

Elle magazine ran a story about restaurants in the city; I checked most of those on the list (except EL FIGON) and thought this might be interesting.

Chances probably slim but have any of you been there, or choose to recommend an alternative? I’m not too much into the fusion-ey gatrobars I checked from this list, and the Repsol soles with exception of Casas Colgadas and Raff, , are not in the city of Cuenca. It’s in Spanish but you can see the names they recommend and many of those are, again, closed Mondays and/or Tuesdays.

I don’t know the Recreo Peral as it’s outside of town. I would probably book at el Figón del Huécar as it´s walkable from the Parador (but there are steps–so don’t know about your partner), and you´ll have the magnificent gorge views if you can snag a table by the window.

Incidentally, we stopped in Pedraza yesterday on our way home (hadn’t planned this so no lunch rezzies).
I was so sad to see El Yantar closed. They still had the 4 tables on the balcony (in your photo above), but they looked forlorn. Glad you were able to experience it once!
I have to do some digging to find out why it closed.

No storks today. They’ve all gone south.

Noneless, we did have a fine lamb-centric meal at El Corral de Joaquina. Nothing fancy but just great lamb and venison medallions (and diners left with take-away bags).

We tried to get into the new-ish La Casa Taberna on the square (by Samantha Vallejo-Nágera, the judge of Master Chef) but it was fully booked. She took the building where the Taberna de don Mariano used to be and turned it into a luxury casa rural hotel and gourmet restaurant.
The suite has a living room with fireplace that beckons in winter.
Put it on your list for next time.

https://casataberna.com/casa/

I think Pedraza is calling me for a near-future visit. Still not much interest in this wonderful eating (and so beautiful) town among foreigners, as far as I can tell. Same with Sepulveda!

Very sorry about the demise of Ell Yantar; that was the trip that I first got to “know” you, and I will never forget that, and our time there. That lunch at EL YANTAR (I remember every dish–the sopa Castellana, the peppers, and of course, the lechazo) was probably my first introduction to the real, not-so-touristy meals on offer in Castilla…difficult to imagine how long has passed since then. And so close to Madrid!
And from there, it was on to MANNIX and ASADOS NAZARENO in Rua, and all the rest!! Still have not made it to Aranda del Duero, but I have time!

I ended up booking NAZARENO DE ORO for late lunch on Monday of arrival in Cuenca, or requested that the parador do this for me, and EL FIGON DE HUECAR for dinner the following night. I hope our experience at the latter will be better than yours but honestly, there is not much open on Mondays or Tuesdays, and now with RAFF on vacation, I think I did as well as possible…looking forward very much to my first visit to Cuenca, and also to the IRYO train from Madrid, and then on to Valencia!

Where do the storks spend their winter? In Coto de Donana? Or do they fly to Africa? I remember we saw them also at ABADIA DE RETUERTA…now THAT is a hotel for the ages!!! And for wine lovers…heaven. And the jumping off spot for so much great food, not to mention their own hotel-based duo. Another place that gets little mention here, undoubtedly due to the price. But what a hotel!

Yes, the Abadía Retuerta is fantastic. We spent two wonderful birthdays there and would have gone back this September, but even our discounted price has become a bit too much of a splurge, but who knows? Perhaps in the winter. The spa is heavenly, the Refectorio, the wine tour via jeep, the wines, the service…for me it’s hotel perfection.

Gemma García is apparently back home at Mánnix, or at least she’s no longer at Cobo Estratos in Burgos. Our waiter there said that she had “gone back to Valladolid” to her personal project, which I inferred was to her home at Mánnix.

The storks traditionally spent their winter in the Sahara in Africa, but now more and more are wintering in the south of Spain, says SeoBirdlife. Our church steeple has a large nest for our 3 storks, but they have yet to appear. Maybe on Feb. 3, el día de San Blas. We haven’t seen them recently in our excursions through Castilla-León.

The beauty of Pedraza is that it hasn’t (yet) become another Santillana Del Mar, with multiple souvenir trinket shops marring the beauty of its Calle Cantón.
On Sundays Pedraza does get bus groups now, but the shops have remained relatively un-touristy—hand crafted furniture, artists’ ateliers, interior décor, bread shops and the like.

The Zuloaga family descendants have sold the XIII castle, and on November 2 the Teatrópolis group will open it to the public as a major event space and cultural center to organize events similar to the Edinburgh festival, albeit on a much smaller scale. It will be decorated for Christmas and all rooms open to visitors. The goal is to bring more cultural tourism to this 350 inhabitant medieval town rather than just gastro tourism.

If you do make it to Aranda de Duero, for our money the best lechazo can be found at Casa Florencio.
Another “lamb palace” to add to your list is El Ermitaño in Benavente (Zamora), with 2 Repsol suns.

We had a memorable dinner in the Refectorio on. Sunday night where we were the only diners. Although Sunday evening is not a prime dining time in rural Spain, my guess is that would be hard to repeat.

tigerjohn,
I spoke too soon about Gemma García. She did indeed return to Valladolid but not to her home at Mánnix. She’s now the creative director of Flamma in the capital.

She’s been moving around quite a bit.