Maribel you are making it very easy for me!!! Good to keep discovering Andalucia; will begin thread on Jaen area soon. As you already know, we will be in Galicia and Lanzarote next month but thanks to you, I’ve got all my restaurants chosen for Galicia and a long list, which needs to be culled, for Lanzarote. (Already booked SEBE)
NOOR
As I mentioned, I had no trouble booking NOOR a month or so out, but if you have it on your list, you need to book as soon as possible, probably even before you book your hotel. I’m sure that the addition of the third Michelin star. (soon after I’d booked) has driven up an already thriving clientele. Note that they are open only four days a week, making bookings even more tricky. As of today they are booked out through first week in July; after that they are closed for vacation for a few weeks, according to their site.
NOOR is an extraordinary restaurant, unlike any I’ve ever visited. Mind you, I am not a frequent visitor to Michelin’s three stars I loved/adored the 3-star ULIASSI in Senegallia but, apart from most of the three-stars in New York, I’m not sure if I’ve been to any others and I don’t put much stock on those ratings; I prefer to consult recommendations from the Repsol guide in Spain) but I have eaten my way through quite a few great places in Spain and Italy and there is nothing that remotely compares to this restaurant. NOOR is more than a restaurant. Yes, the food is creative, interesting, and sabrosisimo, May sabrosisimo!
But far beyond that, this restaurant offers an edible excursion through the food of the historical epochs of El Andaluz. Each season, after intense consultation with historians, food scholars, designers, and archeologists, the kitchen shines a spotlight on a distinct era of the city that once reigned as among the most scientifically and culturally advanced in the world, while also coinciding with the persecution and expulsion of Spain’s large Jewish minority.
Rather than being tedious, as some might imagine, the explanations of the various dishes and their setting in place and time, offers a fascinating enhancement of a meal that would be incredible even without commentary.
Almost each and every product on the carta is elaborated upon, so while dining one learns of the far-flung origins of ingredients and when and how they made it to the shores of what we now know as Spain.
When I dined at NOOR in March, the spotlight shone on the final stage of Spain’s 17th Century Epoca de Oro (Golden Age). There is a choice of three tasting menus; I selected the MORISCO menu, comprised of about 14 courses of varying sizes.
While I am not going to delve into history, I will say that if you take the time to acquaint yourself a bit with the history of the city during this period, and learn even a small bit about which ingredients had reached Spanish shores by then (think of the immense food revolution brought with then Arab conquest, and the Spanish explorers who paved the way for the trade in spices New World products like chilis, tomatoes, and chocolate which were new to the kitchens of wealthy Europeans). (There are published accounts on this topic including Maria Jose Sevilla’s DELICIOSO and her just-published COCINA DE ANDALUCIA I have not read either but have the latter on order) and the late, great Penelope Casas’ book, also named DELICIOSO, the classic that should sit on the shelves of every food-focused visitor to Spain while there is obviously no necessary reading to book a table at NOOR, I think some general idea of the topic might enhance the experience.)
Enough of all that!
I decided to walk to NOOR, as a quick peek at the map, and the front desk person at the HOSPES, told me the trip would be about 20 minutes. The fact that it began to pour was not the problem I faced. The problem is that I got. hopelessly lost, despite asking several passersby to point me in the right direction. Google maps were USELESS!
About 15 minutes after my reservation time, I got a phone call from the staff asking if I was ok…I was fine, and making my way there. Positive thinking. After two more phone calls, and with the NOOR staff guiding me as I walked, I finally made it to the pierced metal facade on an unassuming side street in what looked like a mostly residential area. Since the rain had fogged up my glasses, I could barely read the sign, but at last I had arrived, almost an hour late.
“Bienvenida, no hay problema!”
The warmth of the welcome was echoed in the service during my dinner.
Professional to the max but warm and friendly, and more than willing to discuss every ingredient of every dish, the staff at NOOR were lo maximo!
Photo of the facade, on the side street, and of the spectacular dining room; before being seated, diners are asked to wash their hands at a beautiful sink in the anteroom, with a server assisting in pouring the rose water, in Arab style.
Entering the dining room, which holds about eight tables, unclothed, I was seated at one close enough to easily observe the action in the vast, open kitchen.
Following three photos:
One of the many place settings; on embossed silvered leather placemat
Open kitchen, as viewed from my table
Snappy black bathroom (note black toilet paper!)
