I knew nothing of Cordoba’s Snail season before I arrived and even then, if I had not had a food discussion with the taxi driver (the first of many food discussions with many taxi drivers on this trip–there’s no better topic of conversation and some of these drivers taught me A LOT!!). who took me from the train station (I took the wonderful fast, IRYO train from Atocha just after arriving from the US), I would still know nothing.
From March until late May or early June (do not quote me on these dates) the city sprouts “puestos de caracoles,” snail stands. What a delight!! I spotted one on the Plaza de Juan Bernier but most are not in the Centro.
So one night I left the hotel and walked to Avenida Cervantes in the modern neighborhood on the edge off the center, to PUESTO DE CARACOLES LOS PATOS #1. Since I was bound for EL BAR DE PACO MORALES (the baby sibling of NOOR) located nearby, I figured I’d stop in for a bowl of snails before dinner.
in 3 letters (plus an exclamation point, or three: WOW!!!
They serve various sizes of snails (land snails) in a few different iterations. I ordered the largest size, in “brodo,” which turned out to be a terra cotta bowl of very large snails in a reddish, slightly spicy broth.
I was given a toothpick to urge the snails out of their shells. My, oh my–these were FANTASTIC!!! I wish I had been able to try all the various sauces or broths–some have morcilla or other meat, according to the taxi driver who had enlightened me… He also told me that the snails are cultivated in Morocco and brought here in season. (have to read up on this).
All I can say is that if you think you might like snails and you are in Cordoba in spring—find a snail spot and enjoy!!! I don’t have the bill in front of me but the price for a giant serving was about 4 euro, and it comes with toasty bread to sop up the sauce…oh, boy, I am still thinking about those snails. Imagine how great one could eat here on a budget???
Of course, I ran into a snag when I realized that I had neglected to bring my wallet along, but that’s another story and it all worked out just fine.
