I also think clay/ceramic cookware is largely used for long-cooking dishes, or it’s something like an oven which is kept very hot over the course of hours and many naan/bread/what have you are run through. And that seems true-ish of stuff like corningware and other clay stuff. Great for stews, bakes, and long roasts.
Visions mistake was trying to make glass take on a role it is physically, MOLECULARLY unsuited for.
From what I heard that many complaints are more about burned foods on a glass is very difficult to clean.
I just a google. Did you know there are Telfon coated Vision cookware? I didn’t.
OMG that’s about as appealing as mayonnaise on ice cream.
Actually it makes less sense than mayo on ice cream. (I thought the crowd that into Vision are those who are very worry about any chemical leaks into food, like aluminum from aluminum cookware, and chromium from stainless steel cookware). So how will that same crowd be ok with Teflon coating? (to be clear, I have no problem with Teflon. I am just not following the marketing)
I had a set in college. Picked it up at a K-mart. I liked the Corning brand more than I cared about chemicals. It worked fine, but I stopped using them when the reports about spontaneous shattering came out.
My Falk copper core 28cm frypan has now re-impressed me after my new induction cooktop, Electrolux EIF61342 with a 28cm hob was installed yesterday. Now I finally have a hob that can heat it well, as well as bigger pans also.
After a few uses for proteins, a scorch test and a power boil test later I can say it appears to heat the pan well and the cooktop has improved basically all my medium to larger pans a very great deal. Smaller pans also get to sit on bigger sidehobs now.
Scorched with a Darto n30 too, this pan was previously essentially unusable for me.
News to me. That solves about 7% of the problem.
Now they need to put an induction base on the bottom, and they’ll really have… nothing.
Different materials. Visions is pyroceram, Pyrex is either tempered soda lime or borosilicate glass.
Either way, I stopped using it sometime around 1997. I think they got put out by the dumpster (not in the dumpster) and were scooped up by other building denizens.
Other denizens?
Smart move, though. I’m occasionally tempted to pick one up at a thrift store just to see if I can thermally shock it to deconstruct. Like buying a Lada to crash-test…
Wonderful seeing such great scorch prints! Deserves its own thread maybe? Thanks also for this great reminder that the performance of cookware is very much a function of the underlying heat source.
Yeah, someone else took possession of it. Not sure who. Folks did this with lots of stuff they wanted to free-cycle. Sometimes I miss living in a complex that had that.
Yes, I think this cooktop will make essentially all my pans perform pretty well for me. I look forward to using my Staub braiser for example now, I know it will be a lot nicer to use now. IMO cladded and iron pans work most optimally when they are a bit “undersized” for the induction hob, that way they are actually properly sized and can work pretty nicely. (Still with the usual caveats of less heat retention, and still of course less evennes too, vs disc pans)
While I always knew my old cooktop was not quite up to snuff for many of my larger pans, this has still been sort of a “revelation” for me tbh.
As the cooktop in itself also surpassed my expectations, it fits this thread as well. I was worried the large element might not activate before pan bottoms of 245mm, as it was specced upwards from there for maximum wattage. So, worried if my medium pans would improve or not, considering the sidehobs were 21cm (very good size for sidehobs IMO), but clearly the large element already works for pans with smaller bottoms than 245mm, just without the full power.
This is funny. Actually… now that I think a bit more the nonstick can make sense because Vision is known to be difficult to clean.
Did you put a layer of flour on the pan to do scotch test? Anyway, congratulation. Sorry I miss the story. You said re-impressed you, right? So somewhere in the middle something happened? It does not work well with your previous stovetop?
Yes, I spread cooking oil on it first and adjust the amount with a paper towel to about right, then I try to sprinkle about 0,5 dl four on it evenly with a measuring cup or something, shake it, and then spread it for a bit carefully with a silicone brush. Then turn it upside down and pat the extra flours out to the sink. Last step is more adjusting with a brush. Not like my flouring job was perfect for either pan, for example I think I didnt even brush the Falk sidewalls and here and there there can be a bit more flour. But if one zooms in and inspects carefully, they can get a pretty good idea from those photos I think.
The Falk is just about perfectly even on the whole bottom, the Darto has some lighter area around the flat area edges, but also the edge areas did brown. In cooking, the Darto seems perfectly fine for me so far, but I have only cooked some burgers on it. They did get good color at the edge areas too.
The Falk 28cm did way worse on my old cooktops 21cm hob.
And to add, I was impressed by this Falk 28cm pan initially on my old cooktop too, and it did work well for the tasks I laid out to it with careful preheats in the beginning. But after more cooking, I started noticing it was not performing so well actually. 
The smaller 24cm Falk was fine on the old largest 21cm hob too. And now I have 2x 21cm sidehobs on this new cooktop :), where as my old sidehobs were 2x18cm and a useless fourth 14cm or something.
scorch prints are only useful if you do not pre-heat the pan.
Scorch prints can tell something, at least for people who have experience in making them. They can also be done on different heat settings for different looking results. So sharing what I did.
My 28cm dual hob has 14 heat levels, 14 being 3500W. Power boil would be 5200w. I used a setting of 7 for both pans, so it may or may not come to about 1750W.
On my old 21cm hob, that wattage would have meant about a setting of 6-6,5/9 or something, if the same way of calculating it is anywhere close to correct. When I scorched flour with the Falk on 6/9 on my old hob, it looked horrible and didnt take so long, as the heat was mostly going to the pan in a single torus shape in the middle. On a low setting for ages it looked about passable, but nothing close to what happened on my new hob now in a shorter amount of time.
I regret that I did not time how long it took for the Falk to reach that stage unfortunately, but it was less than it took for the Darto. The Darto had been 20 minutes on a constant 7/14 setting on that final photo I shared, with a 4 minute “warp prevention” on 4/14 first.
The Falk had a shorter time on 4/14 first too.
I don’t have so much experience with the new cooktop yet naturally, but the 7/14 setting is what I have also been using to preheat my pans so far mostly, but I have then during cooking also used about 10/14 for a while to keep things going nicely.
Of course both of the pans would have been ready to cook earlier already than in my photos.
