[Colwyn Bay/ Bae Colwyn] Bryn Williams at porth Eirias

The Porth Eirias building is a fairly recent construction, right on the beach. There was significant funding from the EU regional development fund and the building now houses a watersports business, conference facilities, café and the restaurant. The view across the bay with Rhos in the background is lovely. Bryn Williams is a local bloke, having been born at Denbigh and is one of Wales’ handful of TV celeb chefs, having taken part in Great British Menu. His main business is at Odette’s in London so his involvement with this bistro is arms length at best.

There’s a short menu of quite simple food, eight choices at both starter and main. The website suggests that they major on “local and seasonal” food but, to my mind, the menu is an “any time of year” one and there is no mention of local provenance with the exception of one item. That item was mussels, available as a starter or main. One of us had it as a starter and it was fine, although a good 20% of the mussels hadn’t opened so were presumed to have been already dead so couldnt be eaten. They come in a decent mariniere sauce – wine, shallot and a splash or two of cream. There’s a slice of bread for dunking.

In an area of the country known for its lamb, it was perhaps a bit disappointing that the only use of it was in a lamb and apricot terrine that could have done with a bit more seasoning. But it was fine and came with toast and a nice fruity chutney.

There was then an inordinate delay for the mains. We’d got to the point where we said that if it hadn’t have come in the next five minutes, we’d just pay for what we’d had and leave. I mentioned the delay later and was told it was due to them being busy and many customers not ordering starters. But, when they came, they were fine. One plate featured house made “fish fingers of the day”. Today it was cod, breadcrumbed and fried and very good they were too. They came with bog standard fries and crushed peas. The other was a very delicate piece of plaice, cooked on the plancha (you can keep an eye on things in the open kitchen) and served on the bone. There’s a saute of leeks, bacon and mushroom which all work well together. It doesn’t come with a carb which can be ordered separately but my companion in life had planned on dessert so took it “as was”. But, with the lengthy delay, it meant we had no time for a third course so, yep, this was a very light lunch.

In spite of the various issues, I wouldn’t be averse to eating here again but, truth be told, they really could have done better.

Diolch am ddarllen yr adolygiad hwn

What a shame about the timing issues. Bryn Williams recently(ish) opened a restaurant at Somerset House that I was intending to try while at an event there earlier this year, but sadly I wasn’t well enough to make it to the event! It’s on the list for the future.