Chai Pani in DC - Report

Named as an Outstanding Restaurant by the James Beard Foundation, this Asheville transplant features flashy restaurant design, an agressive sound system, and craft cocktails. The terms ‘street food’ and foodie are easily tossed about looking for a devoted clientele. And it is indeed hard to get a reservation.

I consider all the above warning signs that my Indo-Pak tastebuds are about to be insulted. But I plunged ahead and did not heed the warnings.

What I most wanted to try here is the bihari kebab. I had a wonderful example in Jackson Heights at Kabab King, thanks to @Saregama. And I will give Chai Pani some credit for the flavor. Very well seasoned with a tangle of very thin slices of red onion that had an invigorating spicy kick to them. This kabob was smaller and the process for tenderizing the meat made it mushy. Still, a qualified success.

If you are wiling to drop some dough, then by all means don’t hold back on the lamb kala masala, lamb shank with a great lamb flavor, doused in a thick layer of dark sauce heavy with burnt onion. Really good stuff.

But once we dug into the ‘street food,’ we realized that we were in trouble. Pani Puri:

The wild mushroom uttapam tasted nothing of the alleged onion, green chili, curry leaf, and ginger. That’s a laugh. This was a timid pancake. The pani puri was housed in a thick cup like you might find passed around by a caterer and tasted only of sweet yogurt. We sent back the kale pakora chaat. The kale had a thick batter and was clearly fetched from the refrigerator before serving. They offered to make it fresh for us, but it too was quite bland. The naan here is like nothing you’d ever see elsewhere. Small, thin, buttery disks.

Kale Pakora Chaat:

Overall, it is far more expensive than good. They seem to put more stock in the high priced items, so that is your best chance of eating well here.

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Quite surprising on the uttapam, given my own experience with it in Asheville a few years ago.

That’s not pani puri, it’s dahi batata puri (or what they call SPDP – Sev Puri Dahi Puri, a cross between Sev Puri and Dahi Batata Puri). The shells are purchased ready, and need to be firm to hold the liquid without falling apart on the way to the table (as opposed to being served one by one on the street, where there are 2 seconds from preparation to one’s mouth).

Bihari kabab is always a bit pasty from the raw papaya in the marinade.

I would have tried the Prawn Patia, as the chef is (half) Parsi and you’ll be hard pressed to find a Patia elsewhere in the US (never mind one from a family recipe). Or his Bombay / Maharashtra origin dishes like Sloppy Jai (ie Kheema Pao), Sabudana Vada, Vada Pav, and Lamb Kala Masala (which I am guessing is Kolhapuri mutton).

The Okra Fries were money (I couldn’t stop thinking about them after I ate them in Asheville, so I had to teach myself to make them).

(Re price, I don’t know what that style / level of restaurant costs in DC, but it looks 25-35% cheaper than in NYC – the large plates would be 50% more.)

Here’s my Dahi Batata Puri from today:

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The SPDP at Chai Pani take a serious backseat to the ones I had at Angel (also Jackson Heights). Those were in spherical shells that, although they were large and rigid, provided an explosion of flavor in my mouth.

Maybe the bihari kabab in Jackson Heights was not so mushy because they were larger in size .

I would say of the chaat that the deflavorizing machine was working in full force. Lots of ingredients with little effect.