Central - Newton Centre in the old Appetito space

Central has been in “soft open” for about a month. Stopped in with friends (and two pre-teens) for a look. The space is welcoming - big windows fronting Beacon Street, a dramatic change from the cloistered Appetito. Large u-shaped bar commands the center of the room, and it was popular. Comfortable family-sized booths (6 of us) line both sides.

Sampled some cocktails and craft beers - the cocktails expertly made and beers carefully curated, if not a large selection. We focused mainly on the small plates, and though a few underwhelmed (e.g. the wings), can’t report any outright clunkers. Favorites included crispy Brussel sprouts, burrata, fingerlings. Service, however, was clunky, although our server seemed to be more challenged than those serving other tables.

They need a bit more time to mature, but I’m cautiously optimistic. Will report back on a follow-up visit.

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“Food is a pretty good prism through which to view humanity.”

― Jonathan Gold