[Cambridge, Grantchester]

Meeting up with a colleague near Cambridge I haven’t seen for years, she suggested Green Man (or more correctly, Vera Green Man). By all appearances a traditional pub, low ceilinged, touting real ales. However the menu and wine list suggested there was nothing typical, and the food that emerged confirmed it. An amuse of “babaganoush” crackers, starters of foraged mushroom and Devon crab were outstanding, as was the Cornish cod that we both had for main. Presentation was artful and clearly a labor of love. We enjoyed a Coates & Seely Britagne Brut Reserve, my first time trying one of the British sparklers everyone’s been talking about, prefectly dry with a nice slightly yeasty finish and a perfect pairing. Would make a great oyster wine.

I’m so smitten I’m trying to get back in for some of the business dinners during the rest of my visit.

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When the term “gastropub” came into fashion here in the States, a place like Vera Green Man is exactly what I thought that should mean. Sadly difficult, if not impossible, to find here. Eat well for all of us!

So true. Lovely that some of these hyper-talented young chefs are taking over previously tradition-bound venues and turning them into foody destinations. This place is destined for a Michelin star, if they don’t already have one. (Not that anyone should be a slave to Michelin ratings…)

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