The “cordero” dish was indeed a very well-composed. I like how they just threw the ramps directly inside the grill, too. But it’s not just for show - the execution was better than at the $300p/p newly minted Hashiri - where their charred ramps were overdone, stringy, and awkward to eat.
Consider also this menu excerpt as well (from an earlier meal):
Seabass with crisp skin, sorrel, charred grapes, and chayote. “Salsa verde” was pitch perfect against the fish’s oiliness, with just the right brightness of sorrel and grapes against the smokiness of the well-crisped fish skin and charred grape skins. There was some tannin with the grape skins, so the off-dry Gewurtztraminer/Kerner/Riesling was a harmonious pairing as it had both green, floral sweetness and fresh citric acidity to match the “salsa verde.” I was later told this was an experimental dish that was kind of off-the-cuff and was only on the menu for a few days. But the concept was great.
“Swagyu” - wagyu barbacoa with aged black garlic mole and spicy flavors of pineapple, paired with a zero-tannin new world Rioja. Then a cheese course, then “Piña and Pinon” a dessert of pineapple and pine, then another of overripe banana with foie ice cream, caramel and cacao nibs, all with a 2005 Tokaji with unexpected acidity, fresh greenness, and phenolic notes. Then a very refreshing cool “Andes Mint” inspired dessert.
Each meal I’ve had there has had a beautiful flow and the cooking is smart, the ingredients are purposeful, and the whole experience has been continually impressive, especially for its price. Personally, I found it more high-level than Mosu, Commonwealth, etc. (though those are nice) even though it has a cool, casual vibe to it. 90’s hip-hop, Nicolas Jaar, Bat for Lashes, etc. and they don’t take themselves too seriously. Heck, once I had a lime and clam soup with mitsuba (very reminiscent of an “owan” course) paired with Pacifico Beer, and it worked, because what else with a piping hot lime broth than chilled suds?