Bukwoski Grill – Brixton Market [London]

I had intended to go to The Naughty Piglet but it was closed for some reason. I have been to Bukowski’s a number of times but hadn’t been for a while as the service can best be described as patchy and so it proved again.

Once the person serving had finally looked up from his laptop I managed to order my usual. Beef short ribs with tobacco onions, Waldorf coleslaw and of course their fantastic chips. The beef short rib was as good as I remember (though could have been hotter) good crust, tender meat that fell apart as soon as you touched it and a good rub with hints of rosemary. The onions seemed to lack a little flavour compared to the last time I had them but the coleslaw was sharp enough to provide a good counterpoint to the beef and onions.

They’d managed to forget my chips and even when they made it to the pass they were delayed due to a table of four deciding to settle their bill all paying separately with credit cards. 15 mins later I got my chips and normally after I’d eaten half my food I would have told them to forget about the chips. Once I got a whiff of the hot beef fat all was forgiven. I was taken back to the chip shops of my childhood when everyone fried their chips in beef fat. The chips crisp (but not too crisp) on the outside and fluffy within and tasting like chips ought to.

I’m trying hard to like Bukowskis but they don’t seem all that interested in the service aspect of the business. There are so many other places in Brixton now that despite the quality of the food I’m not sure I’ll return.

I had a quick lunch there recently and agree with you about the service but if you need a burger there are worse possible outcomes.

The special was a Reuben sandwich burger and about 18 months ago they offered an excellent version.

I should have read the menu in greater detail, this was a burger with sauerkraut, cheese and pastrami, (previously it had been all pastrami and no burger), and while not an unpleasant combination it was not what I was expecting and the toppings were served at fridge temperature.

Perhaps the place is a little too unreliable but it is good when it is good. I will be staying simple in the future.

Next stop Naughty Piglets. Have you tried Moritos, I have not got further than the tacos but they are excellent?