Brett Martin, GQ's restaurant critic, details the dishes that stayed with him while hunting for the country's best new restaurants.


Best Noodles
Mi Quang Phu Chiem at The Temple Club (Oakland)

“A special dish from ‘Phu Chiem’ in Quang Nam Provence, where it was created,” reads the menu at this casual, verging on slapdash, spot far from the more gentrified precincts of downtown Oakland. It’s one sign of the seriousness with which chef Geoffrey Deetz returned from sixteen years of living in Vietnam, intent on cooking authentic Vietnamese food. The dish consists of shrimp, pork, quail egg, peanuts, herbs, and more, all aswim among fat, slippery noodles atop a bed of sesame leaf, mint, lettuce, and banana blossom. It’s an unfolding riot of texture in every bite.