Ha, I actually ate at a PF Changs for the first time last week (coincidence with reading the chapter). I was expecting a train wreck when I saw the list of sushi, but the happy hour appetizers reminded me of Applebees— not exciting, but perfectly fine. Actually, the garlic chili green beans, deep-fried no doubt for maximum shriveling, were better than at most non-Sichuan restaurants and included preserved vegetables (probably zha cai).
I’ve spoken to family members (I’m Jewish) who advocate PF Changs as “real Chinese food.” If it gets people to realize that there exists a distinction between the corner takeout and a real or mythical “real Chinese food”, and that that other food isn’t weird, I think that’s a net positive… especially in a contemporary atmosphere with cocktails. And if that set the stage for places like Martin Yan’s MY China, we’re in a good place. But that’s me saying this— whether or not perceptions of Chinese food have changed since the 60s, Freedman provides little evidence plus or minus besides the proliferation of new dishes!
