Well, this is a bit convoluted itinerary, part work, part fun. Just wrapping up the Florence leg. Apologies for the impressionist, rather than detailed reports on the food; I need to start taking notes the same day ;-).
When my daughter the architecture student learned I was attending a conference in Bilbao, she insisted on joining. I put her in charge of scoping dining options, and to no great surprise, with dad bearing the credit card, we collected 4 Michelin stars in 3 days. The 1-star Andra Mari serves a traditional Basque menu in a pleasant (and traditional) hilltop setting. We sampled a Txakoli made with grapes harvested from a vineyard visible in the valley below the restaurant. This and a couple of other exposures to Txakoli were a revelation - a grape I wasn’t familiar with, but I look forward to adding some to my cellar.
The 3-star Azurmendi was a completely different experiences. Set in a striking modern wood and glass building, also high on a hill, it was as much a theatrical as culinary experience. Apparently they stagger the timing of bookings because of the"pipeline". We were welcomed as we entered the spacious atrium with a glass of superbly refreshing Txakoli, and invited to a “picnic”, consisting of 4 amuses, while sitting on “picnic benches” in the tree-lined atrium. After the picnic we were ushered into the spotless kitchen for the next half-dozen courses. Liquid nitrogen poured over a bowl of seaweed provided atmosphere. Molecular gastronomy was on full display, with foams, capsules, emulsions, and intricate geometric constructions. This kitchen was fairly spacious - larger than French Laundry, and eerily quite. No “Oui Chef” being shouted. Third venue was an indoor “garden”, composed of ersatz “plants” - somewhat fantastical constructions meant to evoke plants, made from various natural materials. As we were lead through the garden, our guide would occasionally point to one of these and say “this is your next course”. The fourth and final venue was the actual dining room, where we completed the rest of the meal, another 20 or so courses. None were more than a couple of bites, and we left sated but not stuffed. My spouse is not a fan of molecular gastronomy, but I will say this was an experience where the technology managed to delight and surprise, and didn’t seem merely show-offy as it can in some settings. I think she would genuinely enjoy the experience, and I’ll try to return to Bilbao with here.
In passing I should mention the reputation of the Guggenheim and of Bilbao as an industrial city preceded our visit, but I found Bilbao to be surprisingly charming, and the Guggenheim to be one of Geary’s best, if not his masterwork. The juxtaposition against - and under - the bridge over the Nervión River is brilliant, and the airy interior both accomodates large works of art (Richard Serra) and provides multiple viewing perspectives, and it affords spectacular views of the river and nearby hills.
