BARCELONA, 6 nights, 3/26

[erica1]

I arrived early yesterday (Thursday) in Barcelona (from Miami) and was met with rain and grey skies which are forecast for the entire time I am here. So, less wandering around, more time in markets and restaurants!!

My hotel (THE MAJESTIC) kindly offered a complimentary breakfast when I arrived, about 8am, and actually apologized that I’d have to wait “no more than an hour” to check in.
The breakfast has won an award for “best breakfast in a European hotel,” in 2018 and it was pretty lavish. I ate as many of the pastries as I could while waiting for my room to be readied: Everything from Ensiemadas and Tarta de Santiago to cheesecake and brownies and a few French pastries that were new to me (will add names later…).

For my first dinner I had booked BAR MUT for the unconscionably early hour of 6:45, but since I was all jet lagged, it was great to be able to dine so early and the (tiny) place was almost full by the time I arrived by 6:50! What a great setting—a couple of seats at the bar (where I had requested) and just a few tables, at least one of these was a long one, seating two different parties. Effusively warm greetings followed…and I was asked if I was ok with the seat at the bar, towards the back of the room…Yes!! During the entire (short) meal, I had the full attention of one or more of the multi-lingual servers…

BAR MUT offers two tasting options and a la carte and I chose the latter. It was difficult to select, as everything tempted. Looking back, I wish I had ordered more dishes, as the serving sizes were pretty tiny.

[PedroPero]

@erica1

My hotel (THE MAJESTIC) kindly offered a complimentary breakfast when I arrived, about 8am, and actually apologized that I’d have to wait “no more than an hour” to check in.

Did you have to pay extra for that early check in?

[erica1]

Peter:
NO extras charge for the early check in (I was in the room well before 10am) or for the buffet breakfast yesterday.
And, I was upgraded!!!

I booked with Virtuoso; I’ve been booking with them when my preferred hotel is on their list–they only have 4- and 5-star hotels. They do their best with early check-in and late check out, and with upgrades. All are 'subject to availability" and I’d guess that this works about 50% of the time. I was so fortunate yesterday, with that flight arrival before 7am. I had been stressed about having to sit in the lobby for hours, waiting for the room, and it was pouring so wandering around was not so appealing.

With Virtuoso, you get no break on the rack rate; it’s the same as on the hotel websites, but includes taxis and fees. And they usually give you $100US to spend on food or spa, etc, inside the hotel, so in essence you get a free dinner if you want to take advantage of dining in the hotel…

When I tried to book directly, the hotels’ site showed no availability for my first night, because of the huge Mobilel World Congress being in town. But Virtuoso was able to snag that night for me, although at a much higher price than the following nights.

I will finish up BAR MUT in a few hours.

[PedroPero]

Nice Being able to check in early is a thing of beauty, especially when there’s no change

[erica1]

Complimentary first dish: This is a crispy, gossamer mil hojas (Mille feuille) pastry, rolled and topped with dots of mushroom creams–trompeta de morte mushrooms and ceps–and artichoke cream. Instructions were to eat this first, followed by the sinfully rich mushroom consommé enriched with Bordier butter. (Cup at right). I began imagining a cocktail party with this, and an array of their other little bites, passed around to my guests!!

Mar i muntanya, a dish combining elements from the “sea” and the “mountain” has long been typical of Catalan cuisine. (Mar y montaña in Castellano). MONT BAR spins the concept into a bite of squid, sandwiched between impossibly crispy rectangles of chicken skin. Astounding concept, and astoundingly delicious. (9e)

The vaunted Garrofal peas from the Maresme region of coastal Catalunya are in season so sure enough, they were a highlight of the menu last night. There’s a sweetness and crunchiness to these “green pearls,” in a gossamer light puree of a vegetable known as “glacial ficoïde” (“ice plant,” in English) and topped with a pistachio “crumble,” that is difficult to describe. The essence of spring!

My portion was very small but, having seen the prices at the markets, the 24e price for a half-order was not surprising. The most extraordinary sourdough (2.50e, from Forn Sant Josep, near my hotel) was essential, because I mopped up every last drip of the sauce from the plate. My description makes it sounds precious and convoluted, but it worked beautifully…

With only one dish to come, I began to regret ordering so few plates. I really wanted to try their “Cantonese cochinillo” (55e) but that was one of the few dishes the kitchen could not serve in a half order. (I asked twice!). I had thought initially that ordering the full dish would have meant far too much food but I’m still kicking myself for not taking the chance…did not want to spend the 55 euro and leave much of it on my plate, but I now realize I could have probably managed very easily to eat it all…

Espardeñyas, sea cucumber, is a luxury item in some Catalan seafood restaurants; I’ve never seen it on European menus outside Barcelona, and I was keen to try it.

MONT BAR turns the creature into a “carbonara,” with pancetta from Joselito pigs, pecorino cheese, and shreds of black truffle. The richness of the sauce contrasted so perfectly with the delicate shreds of sea cucumber…I’ve read some people calling this “slimy,” but that did not apply at all here. Another astoundingly creative and supremely delicious dish. On top is a shatteringly crisp slice of the animal’s skin…(half order 32e)

I turned down the offer of dessert, thinking I’d find myself some delicious ice cream nearby (walking out into the pouring rain, I quickly ditched that plan).
This trio of sweets was a welcome gift—mango cream, a polished, round chocolate, and another tidbit…

I only drank water; the total was 71.40 euro, and I’m trying to figure out how I can work in a second visit to try the cochinillo!

[erica1]

The wonderful sourdough bread at MONT BAR was baked by FORN SANT JOSEP, so I stopped there on my walk to La Sagrada Familia yesterday afternoon. Various breads looked outstanding!

Fourth-generation Owner Emili Feliu won the “Best Bread in Barcelona” competition is 2025, one of numerous awards over more than a century.

Forn Sant Josep | Artesano | Carrer de Roger de Llúria, 98, Barcelona, Spain

Also made a quick stop at the exquisite MERCAT DE LA CONCEPCIO, on c/Valencia. All the expected foods are for sale, along with lots of plants and flowers, and the place was devoid of any obvious tourists, unlike that other famous Barcelona food market. The glass and cast iron 1888 structure is gorgeous! I bought a Catalan young goat cheese at one of the stands near the front; have finished most of it already:

This guy specializes in Spanish cheeses (another vendor had only cheeses from France) and was so eager to talk about his products.

Tantdebo.cat - Mercat de la Concepció

Absolutely recommend this market, over the "other’ one.

Dinner last night was at SUCULENT in the Raval neighborhood. From the online comments you would think you were headed into the 1970s South Bronx when you turn right after walking south along Las Ramblas. One of the amusing sights along thew walk was the brightly-lit HUMMUS AND COMPANY, whose awning obscured the name of the former tenant, BAGELS AND COMPANY.

SUCULENT

I sat at the bar in this very small restaurant which was about half full when I arrived just after 9pm. Menus are either tasting or a la carte; I chose the latter:

Roast duck croquette in rear; oyster in escabeche of carrot and orange, with drops of pumpkin oil:

Close-up of duck croquette:

Escabeche was so bright with citrus, I mopped up every bit with excellent “pan rustico”

Staff are very correct, less chatty than at MONT BAR. English spoken.

Again, I wanted pig, and there were two choices: Ssam with all the bits inside the pig’s head and crispy cochinillo. But the server dissuaded me from the first, telling me that it contained “everything inside the head, including the pig brains.” The second he said, would be the same as in Segovia, and it sounded as if he was discouraging me..not sure about that. Since I could not have a half order, I let it go and he guided me through he rest of my choices:

Beet in a beurre blanc sauce with bits of smoked eel. I could have done without the eel, but this was very good. Half order.

Artichoke with butifarra in a “Thai chicken broth,” rich with egg yolk. Terrific dish.

Warm steak tartar with bone marrow and “soufflé potato.”

I had one glass of Albarino and my bill came to a modest 44 euro, including water and bread charge. Very good dinner, if not quite as good as the previous night at MONT BAR. This place is a lot more casual; MONT BAR has more of a spiffy Parisian bistro look. One Repsol sun; Michelin mention.

[erica1]

ULTRAMARINOS MARIN

There are two sections behind the unobtrusive entrance just north of Diagonal on Calle Balmes. A long bustling bar in front, a where I had booked a seat for Saturday lunch, and a slightly more sedate asador in back. It didn’t take me long to realize that this is one of those "temples of product’ that I adore in Spain. The bar area was jam -packed, and servers are scurrying back and forth almost at a run. Lots of commotion, shouting out of orders to the chefs…I absolutely loved it! Paper menus are in Catalan only and, for a few minutes, I sat there unattended, feeling like I’d stumbled into a party where everyone else was having a blast. Do not come here looking for good service, or even very attentive service. Prepare to wait, prepare to remind your server about a forgotten items, prepare for lots of shouting, prepare for paper napkins from a metal dispenser…prepare to feel–in the beginning–like a party crasher. I’m saying this because I do not think this is a restaurant for everyone, and even the reviews from locals that I’ve read have been full of complaints about service and high prices. It’s take it or leave it here and there’s some similarity with one of my favorites in Madrid, TASQUITA DE ENFRENTE, another product-forward restaurant that garners more than a few haters online.

Having said all that, I was in heaven once I relaxed and placed my order, with the help of no-nonsense server and a few peeks at the Catalan translations on my phone. This was, by far, my favorite meal in the city so far and just a few minutes in, I was trying to figure out how to fit in a second visit.

The single best bite of my trip so far was the raw sea urchin doused with a slug of garam by the chef. (6 euro each)

The most succulent—suck out every last bit of juice from the head–shrimp; sop up the liquid with their excellent house-made bread. Four shrimp, 20 euro; bread 2 euro.

Calamari grilled perfectly with the edges charred…more sopping up juices with bread:

Those exquisite spring peas, grilled!!! Scoop up every last bit with a spoon…miraculous. Half order, 20 euro.

Grilled young rabbit…alongside the most spectacular, most garlic-laden aioli I’d ever dreamed of; rabbit, 15 euro; allioli, 2 euro–one of four sauces offered in a combo plate (see yellow mounds behind glass in fourth photo in photo group at bottom)

“It’s just a potato,” you might think., but this was some specimen of potato—boiled with salt until the pot is dry, and then smashed on the hot grill…smothered with allioli------.be still my heart!

Desserts are listed, again in Catalan only, I spotted the patisserie of pear and chocolate, in the glass case on the bar and, although I was pretty full, I had to have it, so had it packed up to bring home to eat (after my ice cream stop) in my room at night. (7 euro)

Total, with one CocaCola and lemon (my new liquid vice; the Coke here is made with cane syrup). 84.85 euro.

I’ve had two ice creams so far; the first, at DA GALLO, on Calle Mallorca near my hotel, was just okay (5.50 euro for two scoops) but this afternoon, I sought out a tiny storefront in Born, GOCCE DI LATTE, where I had a cup of exquisite bergamot and “picante” dark chocolate. (4 euro for 2 scoops).

Not food related, but last night I attended a performance of my favorite opera, Norma, at the UNESCO-listed Palau de la Musica Catalana, which must be the most glorious music venue in the world. First balcony center seat: 76 euro.

[THECHARLES (Charles Yu)]

Toronto ex-chowhound ’ Estufarian ’ and myself both enjoyed the eye-opening, inventive and fun tasting menu at DISFRUTA during our recent trip to Barcelona.
However, the only downside for me was the 4.5+ hours plus, sitting on the bench-like seat…talk about pain in the butt!!

[erica1]

Charles, that’s one reason that I avoid tasting menus..I just cannot sit for so long!

I had such a great time at MARIN that I went a second time yesterday for lunch.
I sat at the bar again and had great conversation with an American-Ukranian couple who have spent a lot of time in the city and come often to MARIN.

Here are photos from the second lunch at what is now probably my favorite restaurant in the city; I felt so much more comfortable on this second visit, and if I lived here, this would be my regular spot. I was welcomed so warmly and given a prime seat at the bar…I felt so at home on this second visit.
I’m not certain, but I think this is the owner:

There was one garrote (erizo de mar) left, and my waiter told me that to be sure of ordering these, I should come at opening time because they sell out quickly.
The addition of the garum is genius! The yellow mound is the house-made ailioli; they make their own bread and sell sandwiches at ULTRAPANINOS MARIN, a few steps north.

My sepionetes (tiny squid) on the plancha, and my order of these which was the stuff of dreams:

Escarmarlans, Norway lobster, on the plancha and on my plate…astounding!

That boiled and grilled potato, again, with an order of fioretto, baby cauliflower:

Pesols (tear peas) a la brasa; you’ve not eaten peans until you’ve had these delicacies, available only for a short season in springtime.

Tirabec, the highest expression of snow peas, gifted to me by the owner:

This is their new sibling, ULTRAPANINOS MARIN, for sandwiches are various house-made products like jarred pears and vegetables, pork products and some tempting desserts including pastel Vasco:

With a Coke, the best meal of my week so far: 76.85 euro. (I’m holding back on the wine; I’finding that I just feel better when I skip it especially at lunch)

[erica1]

Although I’d heard how La Boqueria market had become a food Disneyland, I couldn’t skip a visit, for old times sake, while I was here. And while it was crowded, it wasn’t unbearably so when I entered around 12 noon. I had I mind a snack at KIOSKO UNIVERSAL because I’d read that EL QUIM was closed on Mondays but happily, this was not the case and I immediately found an open seat at the bar.
As I’m learning, Monday is not the day for seafood in this city–like in most places, boats do not go out on Sundays or Mondays, so the seafood offering were limited. I was sorry not to spot Quim Marquez, with whom I had enjoyed so much chatter on many previous visits (although doubtful he would remember any of these). Nevertheless, I had an order of perfectly grilled Navajas, and some impeccably fried whole baby artichokes, along with slices of (soggy) pa amb tomaquet, the emblematic Catalan tomato/garlic bread.

They’ve got the service down, servers speak English, and I had wellcome snacks and some fun–glad to see that the old haunts have not changed all that much, despite Quim’s absence that day. The other diners were tourists, like myself.

I won’t say it’s an essential stop, but if you find yourself hungry around Las Ramblas, you could do a lot worse here…still a Barcelona classic–oro at one of the other bars inside the market.

![IMG_4881|700x525](upload://tAy7g72suUUqCdvAAq55yajqWRX.jpeg

My bill for there artichokes, the razor clams, the pa lamb tomaquet and a Coke: 37.75. They will no longer do half orders here but portions are not immense.

Nostalgic pics, with Quim Marquez, years ago:

I’d always been advised to bypass the vendors in the front, with the stacks of expensive fruit juices, but I did make a beeline to Vidal Pons, known far and wide for their dried and sugared fruits. Orange slices dipped In dark chocolate, dozens of desiccated, sliced fruits from kiwi to maracuya… They are very generous with samples and I ended up with a large bag of those gelatin fruits covered in sugar. The most expensive sell for about 74 euro per kilo but I can assure you that It does not take very long to devour a few hundreds grams of sugared watermelon, sugared papaya, sugared mango…I had an intimate little fiesta for one in my hotel room that night and only rue the fact that I did not buy a lot more!

I visited two other markets this week, and both were absolutely prime examples of the urban public market: MERCAT DE LA CONCEPCION, where I bought some cheese, and the far larger MERCAT DE NINOT in the Eixample Esquerra. If I were to rent a flat tin Barcelona, I’d make sure it was very close to either of those, or the MERCAT SANT ANTON, which I did not have time to visit. At the opposite extreme of LA BOQUERIA, these markets would make any cook feel as if he or she had died and gone to heaven.

Here are the vaunted peas at MERCAT NINOT, along with a couple of other pics inside:

After my market visit, I treated myself to what would be one of the two greatest ice creams I’ve had in Spain, at DE LA CREM:

This heladeria was tied for the “best ice cream of the week” with the minuscule GOCCE DI LATTE, in Born (photo below)

I was on an ice cream mission this week and tried quite a few but these were, by far, the best.

[THECHARLES (Charles Yu)]

Presentation aside. I’m 100% sure, the food you posted above tasted better than most of the 28 courses DISFRUTA offered! BTW, I just LOVE any type of baby peas in Europe!..so sweet, crisp and tender!
Stay safe and have a fun time!!

[tigerjohn]

How do these “top ice creams of the week” in BCN compare with the best from your extensive travels in Italy?

[THECHARLES (Charles Yu)]

Ah! La Boqueria!
No oysters?! Guess you must have read my posting about the food poisoning experience I suffered after eating them at the seafood/oyster stand there!! Ha!

[erica1]

Charles I will never, ever forget your tale of the bad oysters!!!

[THECHARLES (Charles Yu)]

[erica1]

PA COMER ALGO

This is a good option for Sunday night, when many restaurants are closed. Another plus is that one of the two bar rooms is open all day long, for walk ins…

I knew that seafood options would be scarce on both Sundays and Mondays after my chats at ULTRAMARINOS MARIN, and I can’t help but remember Tony Bourdain’s admonition on that topic, which still seems to hold true in Spain, or at least in the places I ate.) Keep this in mind when planning your restaurant itineraries…

This was reiterated by the amiable waiter at PA COMER ALGO, who explained that most boats do not go out on Sunday and Monday mornings so the selection at the llonjas are minimal. Not surprisingly, the seafood selection last Sunday night was limited.

PA COMER ALGO (a play on the Spanish, "to eat something’) has been a solid bet on Calle Muntañer at the heart of the Eixample Esquerra (often dubbed the “Gaix-ample” ) for at. least 20 years. I loved this place 15 years ago, and was happy as a clam at the thought of returning. The team is used to foreigners and I felt as welcomed as I would have been at a dinner party back home (if only I had interesting friends who knew how to cook and loved to natter on about obscure seasonal vegetables..)).

I had my heart set on seafood, but there was no shrimp at all…most deinifelty none of the vaunted $$$$ prawns from Palamos on the Costa Brava, that I so wanted to try and which seafood lovers should seek out in Catalonia. (LA TASQUITA DE ENFRENTE, one of my Madrid faves, often features these, as do high-end marisquerias throughout the country,

“Prawns from Palamos”–akin to saying "uni from Sant Barbara..or mussels from Isla de Arousa in Galicia) were not to be had that Sunday night. And no cigalas; , my new object of adoration---- these go by various translations in English.

This place is the ideal restaurant for first time visitors, and it’s great for everyone else as well…relaxed, friendly, seating at bat or high-top tables, and one of the two dining areas has continuous service all day long with no break (but you cannot reserve that section).

I was given an excellent table–a high top in the rear of the dining room.., so I could rest my (excruciatingly aching) back against the wall, since the stools are just that–stools with no back. Under-table hooks are handy for hang your purse or jacket…why do we not have more of these in New York??

IF you are new to the city and have one night and want to see what the Barcelona dining scene is about but don’t 'want any anxiety…this is your place.

Couple of snaps of the reservation-accepted bar area, and the night’s menu; supplemented by off-menu dishes listed on the blackboard:

Having said that, due to the paucity of seafood dishes on offer, and my less-than-good choices, my dinner was very good but not memorable. I forgot to order the mixed vegetables on the plancha–just slipped my mind, so I probably missed out on some great spring vegetables..this is a great month for those!)
One of many pluses here is that the kitchen is willing to serve half orders of many dishes, in fact, my server suggested that I cut back on my servings..

So I ended up with a fried food feast; everything was tasty, I won’t remember any of the dishes months from now…

Impeccable take on the Cadiz classic, TORTILLITA DE CAMARONES. This was one of a number of Andaluz staples on the carta and they were exceptional; try to spot the minuscule shrimp in the photos…addictive; 4.10 euro for two large fritters. In background, forgettable patatas braves (half-order) with ailioli; skip these here…

I adore artichokes, but these did not hold a candle to those at QUIM that I had for breakfast the next day; here the were thickly sliced and fried; I much prefer the entire baby specimen. A squirt of lemon would have been good…I’m being very picky here, despite my critical comments, this is a very solid restaurant.

Finally: A quartet of Zamburiñas, one of a few types of scallops you’ll see on menus in urban and coastal areas. (You’d need a university-level course to master the various names for the cornucopia of shellfish brought in from these coastlines).

The large size of the shells belies the smallness of the scallop (Orange roe intact; visible in the last pic–why is this always absent when I buy scallops in the US) once cooked; the topping of caramelized onions and bread crumbs slightly overwhelmed the flavor of the meat, but I could have downed a dozen of these…highlight!!!

[erica1]

I passed on the Crema Catalana that was calling my name, since I was intent on the pursuit of great ice cream…I’ll recap my findings later on…

Total bill: 34.40euro.
The prices are so moderate; keep in mind that my capacity is kind of small and I did devour those immense hotel breakfasts and snack during the day… but even so, it’s possible to eat astoundingly well for a reasonable price as compared to back home if you steer clear of some of the big names…The bar for food in this city seems so high!!! (Although I did spot a dismayingly large amount of spiffy addresses for “brunch” and a surprising number of ramen and dumpling spots…
And every block in the touristed areas teems with marquees blaring “tapas!!”
I think the general advice is to steer clear of anyplace with “tapas” in the name, although there are apparently a few exceptions to this…

I’m guessing that one could eat very well by judiciously stopping in to. a place just based on the clientele inside and a peek at the carta (no photos of spaghetti Bolognese or paella)…I was happy to pass by many old-school Catalan eateries that I would have loved to try…I never did have time for my calcotada lunch on this trip, although I had a few places marked…(springtime is the season for these lee-like vegetables, and there is an entire ritual based on eating them as part of a celebration of springtime in the region)

I’m just realizing how I do go on and on…maybe I ought to start a blog where I could just meander on and on aimlessly about food on my various vacations…
I feel so frustrated about all the great content we all contributed to Chowhound is lost in the ether somewhere…what is this site bites the dust someday (???)
I don’t take notes anymore…just use this site as a diary of my trips…

I’ve held back on the alcohol on this trip, but prices for wine are so reasonable that you can indulge quite a lot and still keep your bill so manageable if you like…

[erica1]

CAÑETE

This is a long-running favorite just off Las Ramblas in El Raval. (Please put aside any idea of the Raval being “scary” or dangerous…granted I did not walk around there after midnight, but if you have any experience in a semi-rundown area of an American or European city, you won’t find anything dicey…or at least this solo female did not… I imagine it’s a matter of time before the area goes the way of other “gentrifying” barrios elsewhere… There is a section that several locals did tell me to exercise care—this would be some streets and alleys within the southern and western sectors, but I’m not clear on that… But I did take a long walk along one of the streets always named as among the “most dicey” and it seemed perfectly fine.

It’s easy to see why BAR CAÑETE is popular with tourists. Staff is very welcoming and most seem to speak English. Menu is long and varied with all the staples you’d expect. (Some of the shellfish was unavailable on this Monday night, so there are no shrimp to be had…)

Bar seating is cramped (I turned down the offer of a small table) but I had the good fortune to be seated next to a young Japanese pair living in Dusseldorf and after a couple of minutes, we were chatting about the food like there was no tomorrow!!..

It’s so terrific for a single to sit at the bar and have the chance to meet fellow diners, and before too long, we were passing our selections back and forth so I got to try a grand selection of dishes, including some stupendous Jamon, which is something I never order myself in restaurants (I buy it to snack on at my hotels…I figure this is the economical way to sample this treasure)

I’d had a good amount of food at QUIM earlier so was not very hungry, but ended up sampling a good amount, thanks to the generosity of my new friends who shared not only their Jamon Guijello (to die for!) , but some excellent navajas (yes, on a Monday’).

There were no shrimp available (Monday night!!). so my idea of gambas al ajillo had to be scrapped…

Take on the Cordoban classic eggplant with honeyed sauce; the vegetable was sliced paper thin and fried to a crisp (I prefer the version with the more meaty sticks of eggplant but this was addictively good)

Half order of stellar almejas (clams) in a tomato-spiked fumet…tops!!

I’d been longing for suckling pig after skipping it as MONT BAR, so was glad to find it on this menu; confined and deboned, served over lovely mashed potatoes, this was a hit… (Later on I will relate the sad tale of my cancelled second visit to MONT BAR, where I had planned to re-visit for their cochinillo Cantonesa)

If you want to gag, take a look at some of the YouTube’s that show tourists bragging bout how they walked through the Raval, and survived!!

[erica1]

On my wanderings near the hotel, I discovered EL NACIONAL, a “gastronomic space,” aka upscale food hall, down a pretty, unmarked lane off the Passeig de Gracia near the Gran Via.

This glorious Modernist former theatre, textile factory and car park, opened in its current incarnation in 2017.

Open 365 days a year, non-stop from noon, it’s a collection of glitzy spaces dedicated to seafood, meats, etc etc.. I wonder if Jose Andres took some inspiration for his New York MERCADO LITTLE SPAIN from this…(?)

It’s well worth visiting for the sumptuous interior; but I did not eat here…but keep in mind during those off hours when hunger strikes…the various eateries serve a wide variety of foods, most probably at elevated prices, but it would be a super bolt hole on off hours when most restaurants are closed…(keep in mind, too, that non-stop kitchen at PA COMER ALGO..)

There were more gawkers than diners when I peeked in about 3pm on Sunday…lots of local families with little ones in strollers…

Passeig de Gracia, 24 bis

El Nacional Barcelona | The city's gastronomic experience

[erica1]

PUR

Listed in the Michelin guide and owning one Repsol sun, PUR nevertheless seems to get little notice on the usual English-language dining sites. It was a difficult call for me, because I had so very many restaurants I wanted to try, and so little time. And such a small appetite that seldom allows me to eat three meals per day.

This last was apparent at PUR. The interior is a contemporary design masterwork, with seating at the bar and tables surrounding the open kitchen the center of the space. It’s in the portfolio of Chef Nando Jubany, a headliner of Catalunyan gastronomy.

I was totally stuffed after my blow-out that afternoon at ULTRAMARINOS MARIN and began to feel a little queasy and not at all hungry when I set off for the short walk to PUR. Unfortunately, the dinner proved to be a short one:

Look at the chefs continuing the laborious multi-day process of separating the chickens’ skins, which will then undergo a multi-say drying process:

The “finished” skin serves as the platform for the amuse–an array of tiny shrimp whose tenderness contrasted with the crispiest chicken skin…mar I muntanya, again.