I’d been a follower of Joel Robuchon’s L’Ateliers since he opened the first one in Paris back in the late-90s. Been to the ones in London, New York, Tokyo, Taipei, Hong Kong and Singapore since, and each & everyone of them had ensured the same level of cooking and service one expects from a L’Atelier.
The Bangkok one opened in December 2015 (if I remember correctly) but my interest in the L’Atelier chain had long since waned then. So, I’d never checked it out, eventhough I frequented Dean & Deluca on the 1st floor of the same building (L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon Bangkok is on the 5th floor).
Curiosity got the better of me two days ago, and I decided to check out this latest Bangkok outpost of a chain I once felt was a trailblazer in its time two decades ago - introducing the concept of French chefs serving their customers at sushi counter-like seating arrangements.
The Bangkok one was every bit as beautiful.
The bread basket - bread sizes seemed smaller, but is continually replenished. The choice of breads have been tweaked to suit local (Asian) palates I guess, so the rolls are predominantly the soft, sweetish, Japanese-like variety. No hard-crusted French rolls.
Amuse-bouche - crisp quinoa canapé with smoked piquillo flavour, and a foie gras with parmesan foam, served in a shot glass.
Egg “mimosa” with a gourmet symphony of vegetables and topped with imperial caviar.
- Sea urchin with carrot mousseline and thin beef jelly.
- Duo of langoustine and scallop, with zucchini, langoustine broth & fresh coriander.
- Pertuis green asparagus cappuccino, tortellini filled with goat’s cheese and walnuts.
Roasted lobster with spring vegetables in a lobster bisque.
Classic beef “Tournedos”, served with potato puree & fresh herbs salad.
The cheese trolley.
Variation of citrus fruits, grapefruit & tarragon emulsion.
Sicilian Bronte pistachio Chantilly with ‘Bahibe’ 46% milk chocolate and cherry confit.
Overall, a good dinner - very Robuchon, no surprises. I guess that’s why people go to L’Atelier: you know what you’re going to get wherever you are in the world.
L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon Bangkok
5th Floor, MahaNakhon CUBE
96 Narathiwas Ratchanakharin Road
Silom, Bangkok 10500 Thailand
Tel: +662 001 0698
Opening hours: Lunch : 11:30- 14:00
Diner : 18:30 - 22:00, Daily