April 2023 COTM - SMITTEN KITCHEN KEEPERS

FETTUCINE WITH WHITE RAGU (pg 203): this was really tasty, and really beige as the headnote says!

I made the following notes and changes:

  • chopped all the vegs (together) in the Cuisinart. The weights roughly correspond to 1 medium carrot and 2 stalks of celery.
  • used 2% milk for the milk as well as the heavy cream at the end. I almost never use cream and it seemed silly to buy it for such a small amount. No issues with that substitution.
  • a 9-oz package of fresh fettuccine - this was the right ratio of pasta to meat for us; I think more pasta would have been wrong (to our tastes). However, I might try a shorter pasta next time - like gemelli - as I threw in the last handful of a box and preferred that texture/size with the ragu.
  • when browning the pork, make sure you break it up as small as possible. Big chunks don’t work well in the sauce.
  • I added about 6oz water while the sauce was simmering, and then about 6-8oz starchy pasta water at the end. (I made this a few months ago, before going gluten- free, so I’m not sure how I’d do it with GF pasta.)
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It sounds like it would be good but maybe with a different cheese, like goat. Are corn and tomatoes in season where you are at? I would think that could make a big difference. I hope I remember to try it when they are both in season for me.

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Same experience for me … I just KNEW I would like this but DID NOT! I was smart enough to use thin spaghetti … others had a mess using Angel Hair.

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I made the corn tomato cobbler many months ago and probably during the summer.

No good ever comes from using angel hair/capellini.

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I LOVE angel hair / capellini, both in general and even for this recipe, but her timings and process are completely off for that pasta type.

Here were my (extensive) changes to make this recipe work for me, still using capellini.

Even though it worked out in the end, I’d probably go with Julia Turshen’s very similar earlier recipe another time.

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Turns out I’ve still got the ebook from the library.

Curious what recipes have attracted those who voted for the book; here’s what I have bookmarked at the moment (many seemed familiar-from-other-places to me):

  • Slow roasted chicken with schmaltzy croutons
  • Pea fritters
  • Baked polenta
  • Harissa braised beef

Also looking at:

  • Snow peas with pecorino (though I don’t have easy access to snow peas at the moment)
  • Farro salad with roasted tomatoes
  • Leek and brie galette (subbing spring onions for leeks at the moment)
  • Carrot tarte tatin
  • Pecorino polenta with garlicky kale (but spinach instead)
  • Broccoli cheddar deep quiche
  • Tomato-corn cobbler
  • Coconut rice
  • Chicken with rice, chorizo, and tomatoes (kinda paella?)
  • Baked orzo (using not orzo) and artichokes

One last thought - for those who don’t eat pork, this would probably work with ground turkey but you might need to add a little extra fat for the same mouthfeel (that’s a word, right?).

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The carrot tarte tatin is definitely something I want to make. I volunteered to bring roasted carrots to my family’s Easter dinner but I may just bet it all on that recipe. I also want to do the coconut rice with chili-lime vegetables, pea fritters, and zucchini cornbread with tomato butter. I had planned to do the clam chowder with bacon croutons but the price of clams alone to make the recipe was over $50. Oh the crispy Bo Saam inspired pork is on the agenda as well.

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I missed that!

Though I highly recommend Momofuku’s bo ssam recipe — very easy, and can be done in stages.

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Seconding the recommendation for Momofuku’s bo ssam - it’s out of this world!

DELI PICKLE POTATO SALAD - p. 55

My first recipe from this book was chosen for no other reason than that I had all the ingredients on hand. But who would complain about potato salad? I used larger red potatoes than called for, and cut mine up into quarters, sixths, or eighths, depending upon the potato size. I found her cooking time to be a bit longer than needed. She doesn’t call for any acid in the cooking water, which I would add if left to my own devices, as it helps the potatoes retain a firmer texture. She has you cool the potatoes in a bowl of ice water… I did this, but I’m not a fan. What was the point of salting the cooking water if I’m going to let them soak in unsalted ice water. Plus, it results in a watery potato. There are cooks who swear that this type of potato salad should be dressed, or at least partially dressed, while the potatoes are still warm. I think they are right. The dressing is a mix of sliced onions, pickle brine, mustard, olive oil, nigella seeds, and black pepper. You add the cooked potatoes to this along with slices of pickle (I used a homemade caraway pickle here instead of dill pickles) and fresh dill.

The potato salad is fine. It doesn’t come close to my favorite versions, so this won’t be a repeater for me, but it was fine. I noticed that in the photo, the salad looks very lightly dressed, when in actuality it is heavily dressed (I used the exact measurements per the recipe). Kind of a reverse Batali problem: instead of there being ingredients in the photo that don’t appear in the recipe, the photo seems to be missing ingredients. I also noticed this in the photo of the sesame asparagus and carrot chop on p. 46. That salad has mayonnaise in the dressing, and there is no way that there is mayonnaise in the salad pictured. I get it, mayo-dressed salads are not photogenic. Still, it irks me.

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TWO-BEAN SALAD WITH BASIL VINAIGRETTE - p. 50

This salad appealed to me because fennel is involved, and I not only love fennel, but happened to have a bulb sitting in my crisper drawer. Green beans are briefly boiled then drained, and once again, plunged into ice water. At least green beans don’t absorb water the way potatoes do. The salad is composed of drained canned white beans, sliced fennel, the green beans, capers, and some finely chopped parmesan… The dressing is fresh basil, mustard, red or white wine vinegar (I chose white), olive oil, and black pepper. All the ingredients are whizzed in a blender and poured over the salad. The parmesan, which is option, is stirred in last (I see no sign of the parm in the photo, but it does say it’s optional, soooo…).

This is a solid salad. It gets better if it can sit for a while. We liked it quite a bit better than the potato salad, and I would make it again. It is pictured with the controversial green capellini from p. 125.

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GREEN ANGEL HAIR WITH GARLIC BUTTER - p. 125

So I’ll start out by saying that I’m team capellini - I like the stuff, so I used it here. The method in the book has been described, so I’ll just give you my changes. Cooking and draining the pasta before making the sauce is just plain dumb… I don’t know why authors write recipes that way, but I always ignore them when they do. Fortunately the sauce blended just fine without any added water. So I made the sauce, cooked the pasta, drained almost all the water off it, then added the sauce to the hot pasta in its cooking pot. I made a full recipe of sauce, but a little over half the amount of pasta. I used about 3/4 of the sauce, so I definitely sauced my pasta more heavily than the author intended. I also added some fresh basil to the sauce - extra leaves I had from making the two-bean salad. I used red pepper flakes, and enough of them to get a bit of heat of going. Topped with parm instead of pecorino, because there is no vegan pecorino so far, that I know of.

We liked this with my adaptations. I think it’s important to manage expectation here. It looks like it should be a pesto, and it’s definitely not a pesto. The garlic and butter are the predominate flavors. I can certainly see a little hit of acid being a good addition. We had it with the two-bean salad from p. 50, so we got an acidic element that way. Picture is in my report on the two-bean salad.

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CREAMY TOMATO CHICKPEA MASALA - p. 87

This is where I need to take my own advice and manage my expectations. It’s hard to know what to say about this dish. I have my own way of cooking chole, and it is absolutely nothing like this. Which is fine, of course. She does say in the headnote that this dish is a blend of several recipes, including a chicken curry and dal makhani. OK. Deep breath.

You start by cooking onion in butter, ghee, or oil. You add ginger and garlic, then ground cumin and coriander seed, salt, turmeric, garam masala, and cayenne (I used Kashmiri chili powder here). In goes tomato paste. After that diced tomatoes, canned or fresh (mine were canned), and more salt. Cook the tomatoes down, then add water and simmer some more. Finally add canned chickpeas and simmer for 10 minutes more. I personally think canned chickpeas need a longer simmering time to be palatable, so I added them with the water to the cooked down tomato mixture. You finally adjust the seasoning (I added more garam masala) and finish the dish with some heavy cream (I made a rich cashew cream for this) and option cilantro (I used it).

So… putting aside my own expectations about what this dish should be, and accepting it for what it is, I have to say it was tasty. It was definitely a simplified, less complex form Indian-ish cooking. As written it’s mild, and the spices are not really balanced the way I would like, but… I did get something that tasted quite good, in its own way. And yes, I’m still a bit bothered by it. Oh, and a note about salt… she uses a lot of it in this dish. She uses Diamond Crystal, which is lighter than most, so if you are using something else, as I was, you might want to reduce a bit. I used a little over 1/2 teaspoon less total salt than called for, and it was plenty salty. Just know your salt and be aware.

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Hmm, what am I missing? Her recipe, except for the cream, sounds pretty standard. I do remember skipping over it b/c white woman in Brooklyn, but in comparing it to say, Meera Sodha’s chana masala, the ingredients seem very similar. Maybe SK reduces the spices and aromatics? I don’t have a copy of hers.

How do you make typically make chole?

This dish is mildly spiced and the cream makes it rich and mellow. And it’s very tomato-y. I shouldn’t compare it to my chole because they are very different dishes. Mine is heavier on spices and has little tomato, but a big difference is the amchur powder I use makes it a tart dish. So just a very different flavor and feel. That’s OK, because I wasn’t expecting it to be anything like my chole. I think I did miss the acid, though, and I’ve begun to wonder that will be a theme with this book (thinking of the spinach sauce with capellini reported above).

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To me it was just the cream, which is why I think she referenced dal makhani. (If I was nitpicking, the garam masala should not have gone in till the end, but I’m somewhat surprised she called for individual cumin and coriander, so that gets a pass.)

The rest is a standard North Indian tomato-onion-ginger-garlic curry base, which is going to be as fine for chickpeas as it is for chicken.

That said, as Mel alluded, there are many types of chhole / channa preps beyond the basic, and different types of chickpeas used too. (Probably also as many channa recipes as households that eat channa, and multiples within each one to boot, not dissimilar to dal – though not as prolific.)

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The garam masala going in at the beginning bothered me as well. I added it, but then added more at the end.

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SOY-GLAZED TOFU WITH CRISPED RICE - p. 129

I chose this recipe because, hey, it’s vegan. But I gotta say, I was impressed with it upon reading through it. So tweak it I did. My main gripe was the way the author prepares the tofu. She pan-fries it, unseasoned, and dredged in corn starch. I’ve been working with tofu for a long, long time, and I know that isn’t going to give a very tasty or appealing result. She also doesn’t reduce the glaze with the tofu in the pan, she just pours the glaze on the unseasoned tofu after it’s plated. In the past, I would have probably deep-fried the tofu, then put it into the glaze (letting the glaze reduce while also soaking the fried tofu). That would be good. But I recently upgraded my Breville Smart Oven to an air-frying model, so I wanted to air-fry the tofu. For air-frying, I like to start by seasoning the tofu. Since the recipe doesn’t call for any seasoning on the tofu, I went my own way, and seasoned it with some salt, onion powder, and garlic powder. I let the slabs of tofu sit with the seasoning on them for a while, to allow the salt to penetrate the tofu. Then I dusted the tofu with cornstarch, sprayed it with Avocado oil, and air-fried it at 400F for 25 minutes. This gave me tofu that was well-seasoned and had a crisp exterior. Because of that, I could just reduce the glaze separately and pour it over, as the recipe instructs, and it was fine. But as written, this would not be fine.

As for the glaze itself, it’s just garlic and ginger, sautéed, then you add in rice vinegar, black vinegar, and soy sauce, and let it thicken. There is a lot of soy sauce… I reduced it a bit, but found the glaze very salty (although my tofu was salted, so there is that to consider). The tofu is accompanied by the crisped rice… you just take cooked rice and spread it in a heated, oiled pan, and let it cook until it crisps up, then flip it and crisp the other side. And there is also a slaw, which is just julienned vegetables dressed in sesame oil, rice vinegar, salt, and pepper. My CSA started up this week, so my vegetable choices are going to be driven by what’s in the box. I decided to make a salad out of some CSA lettuce and daikon radish. I dressed it using the ingredients called for in the slaw, but not the proportions. I just tossed the salad with a small bit of sesame oil, seasoned with salt & pepper, then tossed in a little splash of vinegar. Mine was a lightly dressed salad.

Overall, this dinner was fine. Nothing to write home about. The tofu was good as I cooked it. The crisped rice was, to my mind, a waste of time. If you are really into tahdig, you might find it worthwhile, but I’m not and this wasn’t. I’d be just as happy with plain rice.

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