Alloro Cucina Italians (Grass Valley,CA]

You occasionally run into a restaurant that’s situated in older grand residence. Such arrangements, with their narrow hallways, irregular room layouts, and features like polished wooden trim and wainscoting can go one of two ways: stuffy and old fashioned, or charmingly retro.

Alloro is mostly the latter, even if the menu just shouts “desktop publishing”. I mean, just look at the font for the menu item names:

The menu is mostly ‘nicer’ variants of standard Italian American fair, including a decent selection of pastas (both dried and homemade) as well as more traditional entrees.

The complimentary table bread is a garlic bread that isn’t too overpowering.

As it happens, we both elected to get two of the dinner specials. My partner got a very tender and flavorful pork saltimbocca with mashed potatoes and artichoke hearts.

I got crab and shrimp ravioli (homemade pasta) with leeks in an allium-tinged vodka cream sauce, which, while certainly indulgent, didn’t feel heavy or turn into a gloppy mess.

You can bet I soaked up that sauce with the remaining table bread. Delicious!

If you’re up into gold country, this is a really nice dinner option. We’d happily return to give a few other dishes a try.

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