Aplogies for the interruption. Work got in the way ;-).
Our last night in Aarhus we visited Substans. This was a surprising venue. In the dock area, our taxi dropped us off at a modern building with a modest sign mentioning Substans. Walking into the lobby, there was not restaurant in sight. Finally we notticed a directory of businesses in the building, listing Substans on the 11th floor. Foor some reason I had inferred it was near sea level overlooking the docks. It was, but just from a higher vantage point. The restaurant itself has no more than about 8 tables, each with a PH (Poul Henigsen) lamp appropriate for the size of the table. The views were spectacular. The surrounding area is nothing but modern buildings, a bit reminsicent of the new Seaport district in Boston, but with much more diverse architecture. Our daugther the architecture student was mesmerized. We started with a glass of champagne, but continued with the juice pairings (a theme in Aarhus) with our âsmall menuâ. With all the dining out, we again opted for the short menu, whch wasnât all that short - 5 âsnacksâ and 4 courses.
After the snacks, our server asked if we would like to stretch our legs for a bit and watch the sunset from the other side of the building. We welcomed the opportunity. He led us to a staircase to the 10th floor, where the restaurant has a private dining room/event space that has has an outdoor terrace. The view was spectacular, and the opportunity to move around mid-meal was a pleasant diversion.
At this point my recollection of specific courses is foggy, but I do recall the meat course being particularly inventive, small cubes reassembled into a larger âcutâ of beef.
All three meals we had in Aarhus were wonderful, but the consensus among my daughter and spouse is that the first meal, at HĂŚrvĂŚrk, was the most memorable and best value by far (Substans was the most expensive, but still felt worth the expense). The settings at Domestic and Substans were more memorable, though.
Onward to Copenhagen. First was lunch at Selma, close to our hotel (Kong Arthur), a place serving modern takes on âsmorrebrodâ. Quite decent, though my daugther and spouse felt they had enough smorrebord by the time we finished, and werenât looking forward to more on this trip.
This is where work caught up with me. Fridat night was a work dinner at Møst, just around the corner from Kong Arthur. A classic Danish âgastropubâ, for lack of a better term. We were a party of 8 seated at a long unfinished (stripped), vinatage wooden table, very classic Scandinavian, with three large industrial pendant lamps. The lamps were low-hung, so one almot had the sense of being questioned under oath, but after a while the sensation gave way to an appreciation for the bright lighting of the table without harsh glare at eye level. Memory fails me about the meal (I was focued on work!), but my lingering sense was of a place that would make a fine destination for dinner for anyone in the area.
The next day was institutional food, but Sunday I returned to join the living. After a morning spent recovering an item we left in the hotel in Aarhus,we made it back to Copenhagen in time for a excursion to Louisiana, the modern art museum about 40 minutes north by train. The museum has grown since my last visit (I wonât say how many decades), and it is nothing short of amazing. A rambling collection of interconnected buildings, with modern art including extensive sculptures (indoors and out), and paintings by all the 20th century masters, Dine, Rauchenburg, Warhol, ⌠The setting overlooking the sound between Denmark and Sweden is spectacular. We stopped for a snack in the lovely cafe. Most memorable were little bite-sized sausages. We need to find these in the US.
Back in Copenhagen that evening we went to Bobe, just off the main part of the Stroget on a lovely square. This was a sentimental visit, because it occupies the former location of Peder Oxe, a place I frequented when I lived and worked in Copenhagen for a bit. My daugther threw a bit of shade on the choice, pointing out it only received 3.8 stars on Google, but I must say the food was very good, better even that Peder Oxe ;-). The lone disspointment was the oyster, which was poached though served in the shell. If the oysters are good and fresh, better to serve them in their natural state. A crudo of diced tuna and tomato was unusual and refreshing, the color (but not the texture) of the tuna and tomato nearly indistinguishable. Gnocchi with basil were large but incredibly delicate, probably the consensus favorite dish among the three of us, Crab in a bechamel topped with pesto slightly crisped under the broiler was very pleasant, the seasoning mild enough to allow the crab flavor to peak through. Pan-fried turbot filets were topped with translucent mushroom ravioli. Desert was profiterroles served with a caramel sauce instead of the classic chocolate. Even my daugther allowed that it was better than the Google rating.
All in all we dined well in Copenhagen but better in Aarhus. Though next visit I hope to get my act together sufficiently well in advance to book Noma and Geranium.
