A. Noste, Paris 2

I had been to the sister (?) restaurant, Dans les Landes, years ago, and loved it, so I was really looking forward to this lunch. I had especially fond memories of the chipirons, baby squid. They were on the menu, but there was nothing baby about them. They were still nicely cooked, but not as succulent and tender as I remembered. And even though espelette is mild, there was absolutely no hint of it whatsoever.

The menu is exactly the same as the website so I didn’t bother taking a picture. We also shared the tortilla. This was a nice rendition, unique, almost stuffed like a crèpe. Very good.

The grilled octopus was overcooked and tough. My husband persevered, but I could barely get through one piece. I did mention this to the server when he asked for feedback.

And last but not least, the duck hearts. Oh my. These were so delicious - cooked perfectly, tender, with a light sauce. I was in offal heaven.

If someone asked me to go back, I would get the duck hearts and a glass of wine. With the bread, that would be a very substantial snack, and I would be happy, and then be on my way. Speaking of, they recommend 2 plates per person. That might be fine at dinner, but it was way too much food at lunch. We left behind quite a bit (not the duck hearts!) and we rarely do that.

Also, when it came time to pay, the lowest suggested tip was 15%! 15, 18 & 20 - white print on black. “No tip” was gray on black, iirc. I was stunned, and it must have showed on my face because the waiter looked a little sheepish, which made for some very awkward moments.

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A little background information about A. Noste.
The place was indeed opened by Julien Duboué in September 2014, after he closed Dans les Landes in the 5th (DLL was my neighborhood restaurant). Then a few years later he left A. Noste and opened a place in La Défense, not sure this one is still going, but more importantly he opened B.O.U.L.O.M, the boulangerie-speakeasy buffet-hidden cocktail bar in rue Ordener (Montmartre). As for A. Noste, it was taken over by chef Guy Martin (Le Grand Véfour) with no change of name and, as I can see, pretty much the same dishes.

However, looking at the pictures, the quality of the food is not the same anymore. The fried baby squid are still served in a clog, as Julien used to do (cute kitschy plating), but these were babies a long time ago and the dish doesn’t look quite as luscious as it used to. The duck hearts look interesting and Julien would always get them perfect, but as long as you have good, fresh duck hearts, it would be difficult to get them wrong.

If you’re interested in what used to make A. Noste famous, i.e. Julien Duboué’s slightly crazy and generous dedication to great products and his excellent cooking skills, head to B.O.U.L.O.M, I don’t think there’s any point in going to A. Noste anymore since he left the place. And B.O.U.L.O.M is the only fine dining buffet I can think of — of course you may tear off your hair trying to reserve Les Grands Buffets in Narbonne, but B.O.U.L.O.M is very similar, only smaller and with much better-quality food.

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Thanks so much for the background, Carmenere. Very interesting. And I am intrigued by B.O.U.L.O.M - will have to check that out.