If you line the saw horses/plants into one strip, a length of Avigard bird netting could help if some support is added to keep the net away from the fruit. That’s what I do for blueberries. Otherwise, the birds would take them all.
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That top seedling sure looks like a radish, or other brassica.
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Lucky you! Johnny’s Seeds finally released the reselected Sugar Snaps, which took years to clean up from off types. I planted some two years ago and they all were true to type. Ten years ago, flat snow peas showed up and other genetic contaminants. That made saving seed less attractive, as the issue tended to get worse.
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My kale survived the winter, but I wanted to use the pot for something else, so I cut the tops off and put them in water so they wouldn’t wilt. And they grew roots! So I guess I’ll replant them.
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I’ve planted a ton of different brassica /mustard/ Radish family vegetables including radishes, kale, Choi sum, and mixed greens, arugula on warm days.
I will recognize most of them once they are a little bigger! Dropping from 26 ° C (79 ° F) today to - 1°C (30°F) on Tue night, so we will see what survives the cold spells. I live in a region that can have a killing frost until June 1, so anything I plant in March, April or May is a gamble that I’m used to! I get more serious about labeling and rows in June! Some other things that I’ve planted.
The plant in the tomato cage is a Saskatoon berry bush that I planted last year.
The oregano is a perennial from last year.
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I am revisiting this issue for my 8-14 Earthboxes
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That’s a complex topic! There are more soil recipes and types than there are recipes for tacos! What then happens over time depends on a myriad of factors, including:
Does the soil dry out? Yes = it tends to decompose organics slower; microbes don’t like drying out.
Are organic fertilizers containing medium to high amounts of nitrogen used? Yes= microbes can use that nitrogen to more quickly decompose cellulose-based components, bark, peat, compost, etc. No=Many inorganic fertilizers impede microbial growth, at least for a while.
What are the temperature ranges the soil reaches? Warmer=faster decay of organics.
What’s the pH? More acidic = slower decay. A more neutral pH, which plants usually prefer, favors decomposition.
Was there any sign of (pathogenic) disease in any of the plants growing in that soil? Yes= Don’t reuse it!
And the list goes on…
If the structural properties and lack of muck formation seem ok and there’s good aeration, with no history of pathogenic disease, it’s entirely possible to reuse soil if it gets replenished with some compost and especially nutrients often lacking in conventional fertilizers, specifically Calcium, Magnesium, and Iron.
Roots enter the picture, too. If one crop, say a legume, finishes its life cycle and you just cut the tops away, the roots have added organics and nitrogen to the media/soil. Even non-legumes can add useful organic materials, as long as the plants die from causes other than pathogens. Since the tomato family, Solanaceae is famous for issues with pathogens, it’s probably wiser to pull those out, just in case.
I have a Thai Makrut Lime that has been in the same pot and soil for over 15 years and is doing fine. Whatever organics decomposed doesn’t seem to matter. There must be roots growing and decomposing in there. I just keep fertilizing it with a mix of fertilizers.
So many variables!
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Thank you!
I believe we may have discussed this before, but I haven’t found it yet, so thank you for your patience.
I remember something about “muckiness”, and I believe I changed about half of my 10 or so containers last year as a result. I had them labeled for a while, but not now, when it matters.
Is there a suggestion for judging muckiness?
Containers sometimes contain peas winter and spring, and almost all held tomatoes or peppers (one eggplant), this year Not much I identified as disease. There were thrips, spider mites and aphids, some kind of borer in one or two that didn’t cause much damage and probably nutritional deficiencies. Fortunately I don’t typically have fungal or bacterial problems, or wilts.
Last year I mixed my own container mix from either coir or peat and perlite ( I don’t recall the proportion right now), and usually add Epsoma Garden lime at the beginning of the summer season, and granular organic fertilizer in a strip along the top, buried about two inches.
I cut off most of the vegetable plant tops in fall/winter, and pull what’s left of the roots in the spring. Winters are generally in the 50’s f during the day, 30’s-40’s at night.
Containers stay outside over winter, usually but not always covered in plastic, and this year most of the covers had holes and we had a lot of rain. They rarely if ever dry out.
There! It helped to write that out.
I’ll check pHs.
ETA Here’s the last time we discussed it! I search using “muck”!
“To this end, it may be helpful to use Actinovate on a regular basis”
So that’s why I have a box of Actinovate!
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If the peat or other organics no longer have recognizable particles .5–1mm, and the media, when wet, feels more like wet clay or paste, it’s time to get rid of or greatly reduce the mucky fraction, which is often nearest the bottom. Another sign is the container doesn’t drain. (However, drain stoppage can also be large roots, especially trees.)
Strangely, there are some plants which thrive in muck. The water chestnuts I grow live in clay muck and a Caladium grower in Florida told me he grew Caladiums in “muck” soil. The issue is whether or not plants can tolerate anaerobic soils, which arise in muck because oxygen cannot penetrate well. Many plants have adaptations for anaerobic muck. Those holes in lotus tubers are for oxygen storage, transported down from the leaves ( see Zhu, Wang, & Mynors).
Actinovate has a good reputation amongst the people I know who use it. Virginia is a paradise for fungal pathogens, hot & humid summers. It’s like living in Borneo.
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Thank you again!
It turned out what I have is Azomite butt it was too late to edit.
I am hoping some of you can relate. I am about to take an amazing 2 week trip to Tuscany with my sister, and all I can think about is my seedlings and how they will manage!
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I have a lot (20?) tomato and pepper seedlings in “double cups”
that might not be ready to plant out by next week. Researching things daughter and husband might be willing to manage while I am away for two weeks.
I’ve sometimes just stuck small pots in bigger, sub-irrigation ones for months at a time, but usually perennials.
Could this work with summer veg, maybe in shade with frost cloth? I’m expecting days 60’s to low 80’s, nights 48-51. I’ll plant them in permanent containers if there’s a10 forecast of lows above fifties in the forecast. I can also check soil temp in the containers, but don’t know if I can prepare enough in time.
I found this.
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I planted some seedlings in those brown biodegradable cups this year, so I won’t have to transfer them.
I also bought my first grow light.
It’s snowing today, so I put a cover over some spinach and brassica seeds that are coming up outside.
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Your posts are always so educational, yours and Bogman’s. I dont’ know what i’d do without you guys, and the rest of the HOs
BTW that wasn’t a plural of ho…
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I can’t believe it (well, I can), today was the day I was going to put the new rhubarb plant out, pick some chives and start digging and working on the compost bins. Woke up to 2" of the powdery white stuff. Well, there’s always tomorrow…I’m retired and not in a hurry anymore.
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Fava beans are appearing, but taking forever! I will be away for a few weeks. I wonder how long they will take from tiny bean to too late.
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At least a month, up here!
My plants never look that healthy!
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Mine don’t either! A banner year, at least so far.
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Wow; those look great! Even if the beans get over mature for fresh, they’re still good as dried beans. You may need to peel them if the skins get tough.
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