You’re welcome! The other tip was peppermint oil, but it’s harmful to dogs if ingested, and I didn’t want to take any risks.
1 Like
You’re right, and we have cats around, so I bet not safe for them too.
There’s an organic, very safe insecticide which is a bacteria that attacks only caterpillars. I’ve used it for years to control all kinds of plant-eating caterpillars. It won’t harm animals or other insects. Bacillus thuringiensis (Berliner strain) is sold as Thuricide, Dipel and other brand names. Caterpillars stop feeding quickly after eating the bacteria and typically die within a day or two. The bacteria occurs naturally, but may not be present when you need it. This product is very effective on cabbage eating caterpillars if used correctly and can usually be found fairly cheap. The granulated form of Dipel lasts for years if kept in a tight bag and cool, out of the sun.
3 Likes
Is anyone planting again for cold weather produce?
I have been thinking of lettuce . What do you suggest?
I need to transplant some parsley, maybe plant some more.
I don’t really know, was just wondering if I have the patience for more planting and tending 
Our tomatoes will still go for a while given the temperate weather, and the kale is going strong.
I was wondering about lettuce… I have my own seeds saved from the summer, which would be fun to use!
Haven’t pulled up my beets yet, but maybe more beets?
I’m going to wait a bit longer, but I am making plans; ideally some cruciferous stuff like kale and collards, but mostly alliums like garlic, shallots, bunching onions, maybe chard. Hopefully sugar snaps and sweet peas.
Chard is a good idea here, given the kale is thriving.
I’d be excited to grow Brussels sprouts too, but I don’t think anyone will be maintaining much after I leave.
Never try this, why not. But winter is wet here.
Anybody tried fava beans for winter?
Nice! My climate is cooler than yours, but I want to test to see if it works
Thanks - will look it up.
I kind of want to try snow peas again… after failing not once but twice 
Maybe I can attempt them in a freestanding container in the less-pest-ingested area, and use some of the tomato stakes and netting in lieu of a trellis. Thoughts?
2 Likes
There’s a bunch of cold weather plants either in-ground or in cell trays to get planted soon:
In-ground: Collards, Finocchio and three radicchio types from Italy. The radicchio gets pruned back after deep freeze and replanted under straw to grow in the dark and cold, for harvest in Jan.-Feb.
In cell trays: Cantonese White Pak Choi and Shanghai Green stem Pak Choi. Kekkyu Takana=Wrapped Heart Mustard, Horned Mustard and Early Mibuna. I may have to cover these if it gets below freezing, since they got a late start. The mustards are more hardy than the pak choi.
2 Likes
I grow them in pots set against a netting “fence”.
Saregama, the tomato stake method and/or netting should work. You could also try what’s called an “afila” type, such as the variety Avalanche. These typically don’t need much, if any support. They make a ton of tendrils, which tangle together to support themselves. The sparse foliage (if any) makes it easier to find, see the peas.
Be sure the soil has a pH that’s not too acidic, ph 6.5-7 is ideal. Also, using a powdered inoculant greatly improves plant performance in peas. The Rhizobium bacteria in the inoculant enters the root system (symbiosis=living together) to create a mutualism (both organisms benefit). The plant feeds the microbe sugars and nutrients while the bacteria helps protect the roots and captures nitrogen from the air, turning it into fertilizer for the plants. Pretty cool.
One should always inoculate legumes at planting time. It’s pretty easy with the powdered inoculant. Put the seed in a jar, add water and drain the seed, so the seeds are damp and the powder will stick. Put a bit of inoculant in with the seeds and gently mix, shake it up. Plant as usual. There are granular inoculants one pours into the seed furrow, but I find the powder easier and cheaper. Store it in the fridge. Even then, it expires after a year or so.
3 Likes
Fortunately, no beasties got into the Floriani polenta corn and only a few ears are still in the garden. Pretty good haul for a test plot:
It’ll be weeks before any is dry enough to grind. Next time, I’ll grow enough so some can be kept for decoration. Seed from the best cobs will get saved for replanting and distribution. My only minor gripe with this variety is the husks are too small to make decent sized Tamales with, and some of the plants fall down (“lodging”). I may grow Oaxacan Green Dent or Hickory King next year, the former for Tortillas/tamales and the latter for grits, husks and as poles for beans to climb.
2 Likes
Those are beautiful! How much space do you think you devote to longish (6 most plus?) term storage of seeds and what you grow?
For seeds and tubers for replanting, there are two fridges in a half basement. The basement is partly underground. It gets too damp in very rainy weather for using the space as a bedroom, etc. But it’s fine for food storage, appliances, fermenting crocks. The house is octagonal, so it’s take some doing to figure the square feet devoted just to food storage! Part of food storage is on shelving, part is in a 15 cu. ft. deep freezer, but a larger amount is dried or freeze dried foods in stacked plastic bins. Freeze dried stuff keeps at room temperature for 10-20 years if processed properly.
Some of the seed storage is to share, distribute. So, the jars of seed are large. I’m a member of the Seed Savers Exchange, so remain active trading or giving away seeds and plants. All seeds are entered into a computer database I designed years ago to help manage the collection, now totaling around 381 varieties of vegetables. 
Did I say over 381; what the heck is wrong with me!? As the wise say…“OY!”. Well, it’s pretty fun if one is a plant geek.
1 Like
