Taiwan - September

Right after lunch I fancied shaved ice as it’s so bloody hot. I picked out a few ingredients for my bowl but ended up eating only the ice and 2 things, black and white jelly cubes. I’m familiar with these 2 things but it turned out the rest was just various shapes made from glutinous rice flour. I have an irrational reaction to the texture (triggers gag-reflex) and unfortunately couldn’t eat any more. Also, now I make sure to let them know I don’t want any syrup either. Beans and taro are too sweet, not to mention heavy. Fresh fruits are OK but not tinned fruits. Guess my options are now quite small then. I love seaweed jelly, salted lime jelly and that sort of “safe” thing.

From a distance and behind glass I thought the balls were gingko nuts. How wrong I was! These little glutinous rice flour balls made me squeasy.

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Yesterday’s dinner at night market near Formosa Blvd MRT. I typed in the app I wanted 2 kinds of vegs, some meat, clams and congealed pig’s blood (I already saw what they had in the chiller cabinet).

What everyone else needs to do to order:

I was expecting something else but sour soup again is OK. I love congealed pig’s blood.

My favourite again. I love clams every which way.

Tender pork with water spinach.

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The place is busy, run by a husband-wife team. Whilst the food does not blow anyone’s mind I have a lot of respect for the owners. We watched how they struggled to get things done under high pressure. Just the two of them alone. Wow. The husband does all the stir-frying, the wife gets the soup and other dishes together, takes (take-away) orders, cleans tables and dishes, brings food to tables. In short, most of the work. On top of all this she also has all the patience for tourists like us. After every meal as we pay and leave we thank and bow in reverence to the employees. So much patience and kindness without a trace of invisible condescension. It’s not just a one time thing, it’s every time.

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PS: GoogleGourmet, I found another goose restaurant today. Got the name on photos for you (no English texts at all) in case you want to check it out next time. It’s in an unassuming neighbourhood but business is good. I think they were surprised to see us there. I’ll try to upload photos tomorrow.

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Pretty sure this is legal, Taiwanese being law-abiding citizens.

Although it’s just a reminder (metro ticket purchase for children from age 6) you will quickly notice seeing reminders and signs everywhere you turn for many things you can’t do, with exact amounts of fine. Park your car/scooter somewhere illegal thinking you’ll be back in a couple of minutes getting a pack of cigarettes. Bam! A ninja appears from thin air, makes a photo of your vehicle and number plate and puts a ticket on your vehicle. I have seen it. One time in Taipei I wanted to take a sip of water from my bottle. Just took out the bottle and immediately someone told me I couldn’t drink it. It was not in the train, or even on the platform, just by the ticket machine by the entrance on street level. On long distance train you can forget about it all together. In Japan, on the other hand, they sell beautiful and delicious food for you to eat on the train! Interestingly, it’s OK to spit out the aftermath of betel nut chewing everywhere (in Taiwan).

Taiwan has high quality of life, ranked even higher than the US (might be a surprise to you). I find the people are generally more relaxed here than in Korea. The expats here are very happy for the same reason. Hong Kong and Taiwan are extremely popular amongst expats and both places are very desirable. They are bitter about being stuck in Seoul and eventually they move on to either HK or Taiwan.

It’s a developed country but something traditional still remains. Broom made from twigs.

A popular spot in town, Lotus pond. There are temples and all kinds of activities held here. You can walk around the pond, or sit on the many benches.

I think inside of the statue there is a shrine.

Lotus season is over, I found only 1 left that’s still in perfect condition.

Locals stop and bow then move on. Tourists stop and make photos.

Benches around the pond are super low, back rest is as high as the knee. But elsewhere they are normal height.

City rental bikes. I could have gotten one but never did.

In the West it gets people’s knickers in a knot, here it’s a right to breastfeed one’s child. And on the topic of rights, you are free to love in Taiwan. Lesbians are a very common sight and they are openly affectionate. It’s not for nothing Taipei is the gay capital of Asia. Not only by law one is free to love, it’s also the mentality of the people here.

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Porridge with mushrooms, mince and finely chopped preserved eggs (the kind that looks green).

Mine has oysters, prawns, clams etc.

Didn’t want to eat much on purpose because I had planned to eat some fresh fruit afterwards. There’s a wet market where I ate the porridge and there’s also a park nearby so I sat on a bench and ate my fruits.

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An employee at my hostel helps me find this goose restaurant. It’s not in the centre but easy to get to. In an unassuming location (only bodyshops in the neighbourhood) but business is good. We arrived at 4pm when they were preparing to open so we went to a park nearby to wait. They were surprised to see us again shortly after 5.

Their goose is tender, albeit a bit salty. I did’t mind it though.

I thought the salty broth with chopped basil was meant for the clams but it was not.

The salty broth with basil was for the goose. When I ordered a second plate of goose it came it it.

Great service again. Went out of their way to help us. Shortly after we arrived the place got filled up fast. They must have a good reputation.

Everyone is so busy and there is not young person working here. Tomorrow is my last day in Kaohsiung and this meal will be my last. I have made sure to ask if they are open tomorrow and they are.

My bill. Name of restaurant (on right) in case GoogleGourmet wants to check it out next time.

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Taiwan has an interesting method of charging for public street parking. There are no parking meters to feed. You park in a legal space, and a parking control officer comes by on a scooter and leaves an invoice on your windshield (looks like a ticket). Take your bill to your local Circle K or Fam Mart to pay.

You may notice some spots on the sidewalk have chalked scribbles. If a tow truck confiscates your illegally parked vehicle, they will scribble on the sidewalk, the name and address of the detention yard where you need to go to retrieve your wheels. Quite a simple effective system.

Thanks for the goose leads, will hit them up on the next go. Sounds like you and I have a similar feel for Taiwan and her people. A very pleasant country to visit with very accommodating citizens.

Very good system. Hit them where it hurts (the wallet) and they eventually stop illegal parking.

Went to another goose restaurant today. Nice, tender goose, bigger portion. Unfortunately no clams.

Partner eats these with coffee every morning. I tried a tiny piece in the shop and it was enough. Too sweet and rich.

Got them here, fancy cake shop across the street from my lodging.

(Beef) noodle soups for lunch.

Preserved turnips, I think. Everyone gets their own from a condiment table/counter.

The pride of Taiwan. There’s even an annual beef noodle soup held in Taipei. Tokyo has the same event for ramen.

Pork broth noodle soup.

Most people do get some extra bits from this counter. They are to be weighed and sliced. Costs extra. We got stir-fried vegs so no need to these.

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Snacks at the market. Lots of (wet) markets everywhere. The shaved ice and cold drink stands or shops usually remain open during rest hours (between lunch and dinner).

My options are limited: no syrup, no tapioca or glutinous rice flour. Young seller laughed with raised eyebrowns.

I got 2 kinds of seaweed jelly.

Pastry is flaky and chewy, filling is very juicy (onions and mince). A lot like Bolivian salteña.

One has cheese.

Market stall runs by an elderly couple.

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This “feral” dog probably lives here. It comes round every time I eat my shaved ice at the same stall. Easy to tell if they are feral: no collar, somewhat thin, scruffy, sad face.

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This place is busy every time we walk by it. I ordered almost everything they have and they put most of it in the broth before bring it to the table.

Offal.

They put the rougher tofu skin in the soup, these are thinner.

Not a vampire. I just love congealed pig’s blood.

Another thing with blood in it.

Half the broth is gone.

I did not ordered testicles and tofu. Photo on the wall shows all the bits you could put in the broth. Couldn’t believe we ate all of it!

The whole place was so hot and steamy, and noisy. Also there’s constant steam coming out of the ceiling.

These people were waiting for tables as we were leaving.

It’s been a week since we arrived. Moving on tomorrow. I’d rather Kaohsiung than Taipei. I had goose and clams 4 times, enough to make me happy.

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Last 2 days’ meals in Kaohsiung.

Had this in Taipei before but forgot what it tasted like. So, this omelette has a clear and chewy layer on top of the egg layer. Is it tapioca/rice flour? I don’t think it’s necessary. Had to scrape off all the red sauce.

Freshly made dumplings are normal in Taiwan. We enjoyed them every time.

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Another goose restaurant. Juicy and tender flesh, bigger portion than the one farther away. Unfortunately, they didn’t have any clams.

Last time to eat this veg as the other place doesn’t have it.

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I did make a photo of the shop front but forgot to upload to image server.

Main cooks are almost always men.

Probably a brine these geese are being submerged in.

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Last lunch. Pork broth soup.

Pork rind and tofu (extra firm, tightly pressed and rolled).

Simple thick-skinned dumplings.

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There are several restaurants serving more or less the same things in the area.

Last shaved ice. I like this combo: pineapple and brown beans. Could be a lot less sweet but it’s not possible. At least I could ask them not to add any syrup.

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Last goose.

Last clams.

We got there at 5 minutes after opening and there were already 2 tables occupied and they were half way through their meals. In the kitchen staff were busy getting food packed to be picked up. They are always busy, both the restaurant and the staff.

What other people order vs our order (bottom corner left, 3 items).

How they keep track or order.

They have many different kinds of seafood, some meats, and other bits such as duck tongues. The frogs have skin on.

Some non-food photos now.
In Japan they also have no garden space so they make their “gardens” vertical. Here the Taiwanese don’t do that, they put them in pots in front of the house and on pavement. It can get a bit crazy, like a mini jungle.

I think behind the fence is a temple or something like that. No one can reach the fruit on the other side of the fence. There’s a dragon fruit hanging but it can’t be reached.

Petrol costs only half the price here.

Parks in Taiwan are an oasis to chill and get away from the noise of the city. FULL of pensioners and the elderly. They just relax or play chess, socialise with other old people. Lots of birds and they sing, too. Parks in the West are full of druggies, drunks and lowlifers. I made a photo of an empty area quite deliberately because I didn’t want to disturb the people.

There are usually some cardio equipments to play with.

Cartoon characters are often used as signs.

It’s not animal abuse in this part of the world. The dogs love to ride with their owners.

I’m in Naha now. Too big, too busy and a shock to the wallet. Other than that it’s great to be back in Japan, my favourite country number one! Internet is a lot slower here but it will get painfully slow on other far-flung islands where I will be going to soon. Probably won’t be online every day then.

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It’s tapioca flour. Most Hokkiens and Teochews grew up eating this dish, and I know a couple of my cousins in Singapore who’d specifically requested for more of this gloopy/chewy tapioca gel on their egg omelette.

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2 posts were split to a new topic: Naha, Japan

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Their food obsession blew me away. Koreans could be equally food obsessed.

I plan to eat goose and stinky tofu everywhere in Taiwan. So far Hsinchu has the best of both. My mouth still waters whenever I look at the goose and tofu photos I had there. Must return!

Man and his rig on the street. You could smell it from the next town.

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You’d think stinky tofu is stinky tofu doesn’t matter how you fry it. This seller tops his with pickled cabbage, chilli sauce and loads of raw garlic. Somehow all other stinky tofu I had after this one was not this good. (my mouth waters as I type this…)

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Terrific acknowledgement of what you observed!