excerpt:
Charred Avocado at Gitano : It descended on us like a spaceship. Originating in Tulum, Mexico, Gitano was a temporary outdoor bar and restaurant that appeared last summer at Sixth Avenue and Canal Street in a former parking lot, inauspiciously fenced with big sheets of what looked like tar paper. All the food was cooked in a small hearth, and the menu’s greatest failure among many was a charred avocado littered with slivered almonds and squirted with ponzu sauce. The burned taste of the fruit dominated, and the citrus made it worse.
