If your toaster stops working with these symptoms, try this fairly easy 10 minute(*) fix before you hit up Uncle Jeff for a replacement. Unless you’ve already been eyeballin’ a New & Improved model.
On an outlet that you’ve checked works, when you depress the lever the electromagnet fails to come on and hold it down, and when you keep holding it down yourself, the elements do not start heating. If either part works you’ve got a different problem than what I’m thinking of.
The left bay on our ~ 13 yo 4-slotter stopped working as described above. Makes sense that it was the left because for reasons unknown, if we’re doing 1 or 2 slices, the left bay is the one we always use. The right worked so I already had confirmation on the outlet.
Took it apart, cut up a foam-core emery board (space is kind of tight) and scrubbed the oxidation off both parts of the electrical contacts, but it back together, and now I can simultaneously make 4 pieces of toast again! And yes, I went ahead and scrubbed the other bay’s contact points while I was at it. I’m not an electrician but I guess that each time you use it, you get a small arc just as contact is made, which oxidizes the surfaces over time.
Broad view from the front:
Up close, the contact points, post cleaning:
(*) Ten minutes or less for the fix itself. It took about 20 minutes to get it apart, and 5 to put it back together. More time to get apart because for some (probably stupid, but maybe not) reason they put it together with 10 tiny Phillips head screws, then, hidden under silicone plugs that took me a while to non-destructively wiggle out, they had 6 more T15 screws. So I had to go dig around in the toolboxes to find my tiny Torx head driver set.
It also took me an embarrassingly long time to figure out how to release the knobs off the levers. On this one (Black & Decker), coming at the knob from the side, where the sleeve part of the knob goes over the lever, it has a slot that can be spread with a regular flathead screwdriver to release the knob.