Unbridled Excellence and Deliciousness - Horses [Thoughts + Pics]

Excellent report as always.

I am wondering if you tried the Kiwi dessert from Camphor?

It’s currently my favorite dessert in LA, bar none.

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Hi @ipsedixit ,

Thanks for the rec! I haven’t yet. I heard Chef Max was outstanding with desserts previously (in the same spot) at Nightshade. I had 1 or 2 during the grand opening period, but the really hyped ones were afterwards.

I’ll definitely bookmark it and keep it in mind, thanks.

Thanks @chienrouge . Yah the burger price is shocking at first, but it is pretty amazing. (Also, given supply chain issues and wholesale prices rising dramatically for some kitchen / food supplies during COVID-19, it’s not surprising that prices in most places have gone up.)

They usually have a couple beers on tap. Last time it was:

  • Scrimshaw PIlsner - North Coast Brewing (CA)
  • Nosejob IPA - Boomtown Brewing (CA)

Enjoy~

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Thanks. I’m gonna give that spot a chance when I can. I’m old enough to have drank in the coach and horses ! Used to be a curry spot adjacent from the inside. Memories ! But the food and drink looks much improved !

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Ruth Reichl recently mentioned that she had a “really terrific burger” at Horses.

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Update 1:
With how delicious our meals were on our previous visits thanks to Chef-Owners Liz Johnson and Will Aghajanian, and Chefs Brittany Ha and Lee Pallerino, I couldn’t wait to return.

Burrata with Fried Artichoke and Fava Beans:

Just another fantastic, seemingly simple dish that belies its deliciousness and level of execution. The Fava Beans were plump and earthy and vegetal, then you got wonderful bits of Fried Artichoke mixed with Fresh Burrata Cheese, so creamy and cooling. There was some fantastic Extra Virgin Olive Oil used here, so fragrant and light. :heart:

In a thoughtful touch (and to show the level of care), our server asked if we wanted some Bread with the dish. Yes, please! Out comes some piping hot, lightly toasted Bub and Grandma’s Country Bread. The freshly heated / toasted nature made all the difference (and the quality Bread itself of course). Perfect to eat with the creamy Burrata, Fava Beans and sop up the EVOO. :blush:

Hotel Nacional (Champagne Rested Rum, Pineapple, Lime, Apricot, Velvet Falurnum, Bitters):

As excellent as before. Just a refreshing, tropical, easy sipping Cocktail to start the evening.

Insalata Verde:

It is always amazing to see their Insalata Verde. Notice how pristine every single Farmers Market Lettuce leaf is (see above)! :open_mouth: It’s like this every time. It just shows the level of attention and care from Chef Liz Johnson and team.

Ricotta Ravioli with Spinach and Fiore Sardo:

Their new Housemade Pasta is delicious! I always enjoy a great Ravioli dish and here we have creamy Ricotta filling with this incredible Spinach preparation. It’s satisfying, mouth-watering and the plate disappeared in minutes. :blush:

Tagliarini with Asparagus, Basil, and Bottarga:

Another new Housemade Pasta dish for the season. The combination of Asparagus, fragrant Basil and beautifully briny Bottarga combined to make one of the tastiest Pasta dishes we’ve had in a long while. They are making some of our favorite Pasta dishes locally and they aren’t even a Pasta Specialist. Excellent. :heart: (@BradFord @ipsedixit @paranoidgarliclover @A5KOBE @chienrouge and all)

Dark Chocolate Tart with Milk Sorbet:

Pastry Chef Hannah Grubba continues to amaze. Ultra-rich, decadent Dark Chocolate, but it’s not overwhelming. Just a beautiful Cacao wave hits the palate in every bite. The Milk Sorbet is a great pairing to balance out the richness.

7th Visit:

Smoked Salmon Lavash with Cress:

I think this is even more incredible than the first time we tried it. A lovely Smoked Salmon is placed on Housemade Lavash Bread, so light and airy, it pairs well with the Housemade Labneh and the bright, Spring-like Watercress. The result is this confluence of flavors that is just an outstanding bite of textures and flavors combined into a stellar starter! :heart:

Horses Caesar:

Really one of the mainstays and definite “Must Try” dishes when you visit Horses. Chef Liz Johnson’s reimagining of the traditional Caesar Salad is just as good as our previous visits. I love the use of Endive and the Mimolette Cheese. The Toasted Breadcrumbs (instead of giant Croutons) just helps to add the crunchiness without it being cumbersome and it makes sure that every bite of the Horses Caesar has a satisfying crunch. :heart:

Hand Cut Steak Tartare:

Just as perfectly balanced as before! This might be one of my favorite Steak Tartare dishes in the city, easily. :blush:

Veal Sweetbreads with Frisee and Capers:

Crispy, creamy, very approachable for those that aren’t used to Sweetbreads, but also exceedingly satisfying.

Cornish Game Hen with Warm Dandelion Panzanella:

Still spot on, juicy, moist Cornish Game Hen, a nice preparation and huge! Enough for 2 people. :slight_smile:

Butcher’s Steak Grilled Over Vine Cuttings with Celeriac Dauphinois and Watercress:

There’s a wonderful beefiness in this dish still, and my favorite part might be the amazing Celeriac Dauphinois. It’s like Scalloped Potatoes, but elevated, and just satisfying. :heart:

Cheeseburger and Fries:

We took some friends here on this visit, and everyone at the table literally groaned when we each took a bite of Chef Liz Johnson and team’s Cheeseburger! Their house blend of American Wagyu Beef + Short Rib + Sirloin cooked to a perfect medium-rare, is crazy juicy, luscious, and perfectly seasoned! The Poppy Seed Bun and Raw White Onion just balance it out. One of the best Burgers in the city right now and worth every penny. :heart: :heart: :heart:

Pistachio Stracciatella Ice Cream with Mint:

It was inevitable, with the warming Summer months, here we have Pastry Chef Hannah making a new Housemade Ice Cream, Pistachio Stracciatella with Mint! So you got this nutty, chocolatey, minty bite of heaven! Yes! :heart: Do not miss this. (@ipsedixit @BradFord @Sgee @js76wisco and all!)

Sheep’s Milk Cheesecake with Poached Rhubarb:

One of the Horses classics, just an amazing Cheesecake, made with Sheep’s Milk, no less, showing Pastry Chef Hannah Grubba’s excellence. The Poached Rhubarb is such a great pairing. :blush:

Tiramisu:

At a certain point, you have to stop and wonder how this seemingly kick-back restaurant is churning out so many hits. It is nothing short of amazing. We haven’t had one Dessert (or dish) that we didn’t like. Here, we have what might be the greatest Tiramisu being served right now in the City of Angels. The Dark Chocolate Cocoa Powder, Marzipan, the creaminess is all there, but then you get that crunch! Chef Hannah’s brilliant move to use Cocoa Nibs Brittle in the center of this. You get this textural surprise and it makes all the difference. :heart:

8th Visit:

Insalata Verde:

(New) Liz’s Long Island:

Ah yes, the Long Island Ice Tea. That “special” Cocktail from your college years that normally seems to be designed to get you as hammered as fast as possible. :stuck_out_tongue: But not so here! Horses Bar Team have created Liz’s Long Island, a homage to Chef Liz Johnson and her favorite variation on this classic Cocktail. Here, there’s fresh Pineapple Juice, and a Housemade Pineapple Gum Syrup to really concentrate the fresh Pineapple Fruit. There are also a few other modifications and the end result is an absolutely delicious, light, summery Tropical Cocktail (instead of the hammer that is the standard Long Island Ice Tea). :slight_smile:

Boudin Basque with Fried Hen’s Egg:

Taking a bite, I understand why this is Chef Liz Johnson’s recommended dish to get at Horses. Breaking into the perfectly Fried Egg (look at the color of that yolk!), the Boudin Blood Sausage is nothing like the usual minerally, iron-y versions found in many places. It’s unctuous, fatty, porky, and so delicious! It’s like a Breakfast Sausage Patty, and the Egg and seared crisp Potato bottom. It is breakfast on a plate. :heart:

Hotel Nacional (Champagne Rested Rum, Pineapple, Lime, Apricot, Velvet Falurnum, Bitters):

Pappardelle with Saffron and Speck:

First, the visuals are just gorgeous. You’re reminded of one of the beautiful aspects that Saffron imparts (color) with this new Pasta dish at Horses. Taking a bite:

Outstanding. So fragrant and herbal in a way that only Saffron can affect. The creaminess, the wonderful, toothsome Handmade Pappardelle, and then the porcine note of Speck running throughout. Just another satisfying comfort dish. :heart:

(New) Pork Chop Milanese with Haricots Vert Remoulade:

This was another wonderful new dish on the menu. Crunchy, deep fried Breaded Pork Chop that was like a Pork Schnitzel reveals a juicy, lush center. I actually loved their OG Grilled Pork Chop more, but this was nice. The Haricots Vert Remoulade was a nice creamy accompaniment to the Milanese.

(New) Strawberry Rhubarb Sorbet with Lambrusco:

Another fantastic Dessert to end the evening, Pastry Chef Hannah’s new Strawberry Rhubarb Sorbet (no dairy) yields the essence of Summer in a cup. Those Strawberries taste so amazing that you might think they are just Harry’s Berries Organic Gaviota Strawberries ground up. The Rhubarb is a brilliant addition, not only a classic pairing, but here, chilled in Sorbet form, it balances out the sweetness just enough. The Lambrusco poured over the Dessert just adds a fun fizzy element. :heart:

It was a relief and pure joy to see Horses continue to be as consistently great as our previous visits. Over the course of 8+ visits, what the kitchen staff is creating is just this approachable, fantastic, elevated comfort food that is executed on another level. It’s not just a dish with better ingredients. It’s something more.

What Chef-Owners Liz Johnson and Will Aghajanian and team are doing is something to be celebrated. Add in the front of the house management and friendly staff helmed by GM Terence Leavey, and you have this fun, warm, welcoming environment that makes the outstanding dishes even more enjoyable. There’s nothing quite like Horses in L.A.

Horses
7617 Sunset Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90046

https://www.horsesla.com/

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Good stuff. The fava bean dish with the fried artichokes and burrata looks awesome. The burger too. Boudin too. Cocktails, ice cream, a lot looks awesome. Need to find a grown ups nite to visit here.

I’m a big sweetbreads fan - for whatever reason since i love olives and stuff like that I’m just not a capers fan, or a mayotard/aioli fan. So cliche with sweetbreads, but moreover just a personal preference for me generally too. Since I don’t see sweetbreads on menus much (and they seem to always come in a prep similar to this) I still try to work with the restaurant to tweak the dish for me and usually they do…hopefully they will at horses cuz those look crispy and delicious. Brings me to my question…is this an “Animal” type spot where there are no changes ever or are they accomodating? My partner has dietary restrictions so we are always needing some kind of modifications which can be a pain but lots of spots (ie Connie and Teds) are really nice about it.

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Hi @chienrouge ,

Yah the Fava Bean, Fried Artichokes and Burrata was fantastic. :slight_smile: And Boudin and Burger and other items. :wink:

For modifications? Hm, I’ve never tried to modify anything before at Horses (their dishes are all fantastic as is, truly). I’ll try asking for you the next time I go.

I hope you get to try it soon. :slight_smile:

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Hi @chienrouge ,

We got a reply back from the restaurant, and they said they can modify dishes based on dairy or gluten allergies, but it depends on the dish (some might have certain ingredients inherently part of the core of that dish, so they might not be able to). But it sounds like they are accommodating. :slight_smile: Enjoy!

Hi @Chowseeker1999 very kind thank you. I’ll call them before I book a reservation. Our issue is a GI issue so pepper and chile and too much fat no bueno for my partner. Places I love to eat sweetbreads that are very accommodating to my non allergy needs include musso and franks and of course a bunch of spots in Nola where it’s a more common dish. Commanders, Galatoires, Clancys and many others there don’t bat an eye and want to make the customer happy. Where else are good spots to get sweetbreads in LA and are there any other non capers type preps u know ? I can really get down with a simple meunière butter and lemon kind of sauce too no capers. Even crispy and salted and served with a lemon wedge and or hot sauce. I understand this chef driven mentality of certain spots with no changes such as animal and others but I prefer places that want me and my family to have the experience we want for a modest adjustment in the kitchen and they still make it very tasty ie Connie and teds and frankly most Chinese and Japanese and Korean spots never an issue always happy to make it how we want it.

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Hi @chienrouge ,

Ah I see. Definitely agree about finding restaurants where the kitchen is willing to accommodate adjustments to dishes (no matter the reason). Beyond allergies, I do also see the chef-side where they might’ve had a taste / recipe that they spent a long time developing and wanted to serve you their recipe as is.

Re: Sweetbreads - Hm, I’ll keep an eye out for alternate preps. Like you said, Sweetbreads are not common in So Cal (I don’t see it that often). I’d imagine if you ever did a private dinner with Chef Laurent (Bistro LQ), you could absolutely request certain dishes and note things you want to avoid. Chef Laurent was super nice and accommodating when we arranged a Christmas dinner there last time (a buyout), so we got to influence the menu / make requests. :slight_smile:

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Sweetbread tacos in LA?

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That looks amazing! Thanks for the recipe. :slight_smile:

I think it’s dumb to make diners pick off something they don’t want and put it in a napkin on the table, which is what diners do when the chef declines omissions out of pride. The only reasonable argument I can think of for declining omissions is to simplify logistics.

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LOS ANGELES — I don’t want to be that person who recommends the chicken. Especially not here, at a restaurant you’ll likely wait months or weeks to get into — a bit less, maybe, if you can maintain a healthy working relationship with Resy’s “notify” button.

But all of those people who say you should never get the chicken — because chicken is objectively tedious and unambitious, or generally overpriced and mediocre, or because you can make it so much better at home — probably haven’t had the chicken at Horses.

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Reservations were not that hard to get. Easily obtainable 30 days in advance. We went last month and we found this middling and not worth all the hype/acclaim.

What was good (but not transcendent):




And the avocado crostino with Cantabrian anchovy

What was terrible:


And the fish special…both dishes so woefully over cooked that we declined desert.

What was just okay:





Service was just fine. Cocktails were fine. Wine was fine.

We don’t get the hype and all the press this place has been receiving. For this kind of acclaim, I expect to be a little more than impressed. We all agreed that we wouldn’t need to return.

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Well some of the dishes def do look better in @Chowseeker1999 's report - the sweetbreads aren’t pale and unappetizing looking for one. The photos of the burger aren’t trick photography either I’m sure that’s tasty if not destination material.

But to your point - PR seems to be such a strong thing these days in the restaurant world total pay to play or some bullshit does not seem out of the question. Coincidence when eaterla and many newspapers write a glowing review of a new ish spot at the same time ? Other spots do come to mind as well. I’ll hold my tongue.

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Thanks for the report back @attran99 . Bummer about your meal and experience. What were those squares with… olive oil(?) drizzled on top? We haven’t tried that before, but thanks for the warning.

For the other dishes, I can see your point. For us and our friends, it just hits our palate and just a delicious comfort food spectrum that makes it appealing (for us). But everyone has things they enjoy more and things they enjoy less.

Hi @chienrouge ,

There’s certainly a possibility for some restaurants to receive paid reviews; heck on our old Chowhound board quite a few veteran posters mentioned seeing press / media, and famous bloggers getting comped meals. We’ve seen it as well recently with famous publications’ writers.

But in this case, it’s more a matter of different tastes, and that’s OK. One of the most discerning food friends of mine (who travels to Japan numerous times) and enjoys fine dining, despises Shunji. But for me, Shunji’s been one of our local Sushi bar favorites for years. Look at Majordomo: Some folks adore it to death; I think it’s one of the most overrated places out there and Chef David Chang and team put out average food (with a few exceptions). I’ve had former co-workers who are genuinely happy going to Cheesecake Factory, and willing to wait 45 minutes - 1 hour on weekends to eat there. Myself? Not so much. :wink: We enjoy DeSano Pizzeria; I know some folks that will never return, thinking it’s bad pizza.

No one’s “wrong” or “right” here. People enjoy what strikes their taste buds. Cheers! :slight_smile:

I agree.

I used to drink at the Coach and Horses when it was our neighborhood bar on Sunset. I have lots of reasons to want to try Horses. Nostalgia isn’t a bad one (including the drink prices!). Our time there will come. Making reservations month(s) ahead of time is just not something I ever do, travel aside, so will probably wait a bit.

I still do doubt the journalistic integrity of certain publications but we can choose what reading to consume too and how to value it, there’s no magic there (photos are photos, albeit some seem more staged than others). The additional fact that many (including good) spots are owned by “corporate groups” and the like signals that even more to me – my take is that there is more sophisticated business in play here than comped meals. But, that’s not some kind of conspiracy dive that I’m undertaking or that worries me. I make my determinations with my taste buds, my wallet and the satisfaction of my friends and family. That’s one of the reasons why I enjoy the photos and personal recommendations on this site. I wish people and restaurants success - not failure - and am happy to see folks employed and successful even at spots that don’t tickle my fancy. I’m also happy to read about spots that I would never go to for a number of practical and impractical reasons. I’m not booking a meal with Chef Laurent or doing a buyout of Bistro LQ anytime soon (hehe) but I can enjoy your write ups of that, for one example. Gotta save my restaurant cash for sushi and the price has gone up!

The Cheesecake Factory may be the number one most popular restaurant in LA and SF. I think I saw that somewhere. Glad people are enjoying life their way.

It’s been a long (long, long) time since I’ve been to Cheesecake Factory, but if someone were to deliver me a slice of the cheesecake I wouldn’t say no either! Food for thought:

Keep up your reports @Chowseeker1999 i enjoy them.

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