[Spain] Sierra de Aracena: Hiking and Jamón

That was great! You should lead food tours. Forgive me if you do, and I missed it.

LOL… But yes, they do have food tours in Sevilla. I prefer to do it alone with my partner, though.

Yes, we were there a few years ago, but your trip sounds like more fun.
I think these were there.


Yeah, I recognise the charcuterie shop straight away. Bought ham most often from them.

I try to post some photos taken at the market next time.

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It occurred to me the fish I ate in last week’s post was actually swordfish. Checked the receipt and indeed it was.

Pez is swordfish

Some market photos:

The markets in Sevilla are small and decent enough but I’ve been to far far better markets elsewhere in Spain.

Rosa and Raf tomatoes I brought home in my carry-on. They were still a little green here but a week later they turned red. All gone now, 6 kilos of them.


A typical charcuterie

The sign informs you the classification of Iberico products. Each pig’s leg has a colour tag and another tag with other info about the type of pig and the producer, respectively.

Hand-slice to order and vacuum pack without extra charge

All sorts of cheese including other typical European ones.

Like in Portugal, charcuteries here also sell cheese, cold cuts, tinned seafood, wines and so on.

Wild boar brawn

So sad I couldn’t possibly add anything else to my rucksack otherwise I’d have got a few wheels of goat’s and sheep’s cheese. Hopefully next time.

Meat and cheese snacks in paper cones


Fresh olives


All the produce and fruit stalls have many “do not touch” signs

Again, like in Portugal, there are many fish stalls at the market.


Cooked crab legs. Painful price.

Typical food served at market restaurants

There’s even a cooking school


Wonderful photos! Thank you for posting them.

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That was nice! Thanks for posting.

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Random non-food photos.

Remnants of the Moors are both evident in the architecture and Andalusian cuisine. This is an entrance to a building (more below).


This is so common in Spain. Just like the building in photos above, you step inside and you see a gate. Behind the gate is a courtyard, apartments are upstairs and even on the ground level. The courtyard always has plants and seems peaceful.

Inside the same building


One of the top tourist attractions. The whole city is extremely crowded, especially at tourist attractions. Finally I got a shot with only a few people in it.

Went to see a flamenco performance. No photography allowed, however.

The stage before the performance started. The Chinese were clever, they went to the floor above and made photos from there through the glass walls.

The female dancer looks similar to this painted one. Well, at least the dress is the same.

Walked past this structure several times.

A bar in a residential neighbourhood. Everywhere you go you see art and creativity in the mundane or simple things. At least that’s what my mind sees.

It was a busy weekend for the locals. There was a festival and something else. This procession was about to start.

Representatives from all the provinces were in Sevilla to showcase their culture, customs, gastronomy etc.

Guest country is Mexico

Representatives in costumes are mostly older people.

Millennial in gym shoes only wants a photo for his FB/IG likes, probably.

Lunch at tapas bar.

Cuttlefish balls

Assorted Iberico charcuterie. After 10 days in the Sierra eating Iberico products I scoffed at the same things in Sevilla. Now you know why Sevilleans go to the Sierra at weekend just to eat all things Iberico. It’s a combination of price, quality, service, and the silent villages and the nice villagers that makes an impression on the gastro visitors to the Sierra.

Broad beans with scrambled eggs and Jamon. A very popular tapas option in Andalucia.

Spain owes its riches in the cuisine also to the Moors and Arabs who occupied the south for 800 years. This dish, spinach with chickpeas, has Moorish and Sephadic roots.

Most tapas spots in towns are always full, this one is no exception. People were already waiting when we got there and it wasn’t even open yet.

We were the first to go inside. Literally 5 minutes later it was full.


This bar with craft beers was open in the afternoon (most were closed).


Dinner at the town’s most popular deep-fryer. We ate here several times and it was always full, mostly locals. Cuttlefish and garlicky dogfish chunks. Seasoned flour-dusted fish chunks, so light I can’t even call it “battered”.

I know this fish and have eaten it fresh and smoked. Spiny dogfish is actually a kind of shark (Squalus acanthias). In north Germany only the belly is smoked. Very nice and very expensive.

Found this on the way back but we were full, unfortunately.


Terrific post. Nice pics. Thanks for posting.

Your first photos are very evocative of a peaceful living style.

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Great pictures. Great memories. I caught myself thinking I’d want your life if it was only CLOSE to as good as it looks! Except for the bicycles. I THINK that’s you.

Not sure if I’m ready to commit to bicycles, but maybe.

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Who do you think guys it? Enough folks to make a profit? Seems like a tough business for most people.

Lunch at 2 different places but they are only a minute walk away.

Savoury rolls (montaditos) are popular in Sevilla. How they use up leftover stewed pork the next day… put it in a roll.

The dark stuff is Morcilla/blood sausage

With spicy chorizo

At the deep-fryer on the next street. Cod and hake roe. Nowhere to sit down, finally a standing table was free.



After lunch we went to see the bullring. It’s one of the biggest, the finest and most important bullrings in Spain. You can’t walk around on your own. Queue to buy tickets and choose a tour time. (Some info about the bullring here.)

A life-size replica

Where the bulls wait and get ready


The bulls enter the arena through this door

It’s big and magnificent. The colour of the sand is real. It’s the same sand you see anywhere in Sevilla when a stone or tile on the street is missing or when a hole is dug. At first I thought the intense turmeric yellow was artificial. The ring is still in use. I was standing here remembering the music and atmosphere of bull fights in movies I used to watch as a child. Finally, I got to see a real bullring!

The matador takes cover behind this barrier. Marks of the horn are visible. Imagine being gored by a bull…

After more walking about it was time for dinner. Wish we could eat more but this was all we could manage.

Tuna escabeche is soaked in a brine.

Mixed charcuterie

The restaurant is actually inside a house in a residential area. It’s like stepping back in time.

I approved of the ham. Black label (that means 100% Iberico and quality is garranteed) and from Jabugo. The producer is also one of the most known.

Btw, all the interior photos are taken with a wide angle lens. The whole house is so tight and narrow it wouldn’t be possible to photograph any of these with the same lens I used for food and beer photos.

Directly in front of where we were sitting is the ham carving table

Our little corner table is most desirable, apparently. Here you can see everything, including the boss drinking at 7pm because he felt like it.

It’s like an IKEA house. So cramp I was afraid I’d knock something over anytime.

My table is behind the photo frames

Carver is getting my order ready

And lastly, some beers I had today.

The American beer is heavy, as is the price (9 euros!).

The NEPA was so good I got another one.

More beer back in the room after dinner.


Is that why they’re crossed out? (Smile)

Yeah, we drank too much.

This beer bar is the most popular and has the most taps in town. They run out of beer quickly but don’t change the kegs quick enough, only when they feel like it.

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Last of the food and beer in Sevilla.

Lunch at the market:

Grilled tuna steak

Last Iberico presa

They have green label Iberico ham but we scoffed at it. We were going to buy a few packages from the charcuterie shop next door anyway (last 2 photos way below).

Like this, for dinner.

Quick lunch the next day before leaving for the airport. Cuttlefish and mixed seafood:

Beer on the last night


Nice little pub and pleasant staff. Forgot to ask, on both occasions, what the huge bowls were for.

At the airport… We ate 1 package of jamon with bread rolls before going through security. Each of us carried 3 kilos of tomatoes and ham packages. We ate both for days when we got home.

“5J” is top quality.

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Last of miscellaneous photos:

Only proof of my visit to Sevilla. Tried to get in 3 times but failed. This is the top tourist attraction in town: Alcázar royal palace

Simple? Spain doesn’t do simple.

So many horse-drawn carriages. Poor horses. Each and every one of them deserves a pasture to roam. That’s the kind of life horses deserve, for all the things they have done for humanity.

The bullring is somewhere there

A trendy area on the other side of the river

I counted at least 5 “Chinese” restaurants in town. This one is on the next street from my lodging. They also have sushi and tempura.

October specials at Burger King

Big supermarket with a big jamon section. 3 employees hand-carve hams simultaneously for packaging.

Spain is a pretty good country to try fun, novelty crisps.

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“Food is a pretty good prism through which to view humanity.”

― Jonathan Gold