Thanks for this post, MaxEntropy. I looked up Giglio–the menu looks great, and a table on the piazza would be super pleasant on a warm evening. I’m in, but I think my kids would struggle with the offerings. Maybe my wife and I could feed them separately and let them kick a soccer ball around the piazza for a few hours while the two of us have dinner outside…
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Trattoria Monti has been on the periphery of our radar for years, but for no good reason (or perhaps for no reason at all) we’ve never given it much thought or discussion. Perhaps this is the year we change all that. Sorry to hear about your experience at Hosteria Grappolo d’Oro, but thankful you told me about it. Any review that leads with “good value” is enough to dissuade me, but I wonder what others might think…
Thanks for adding to this thread, Kathrynanne. I appreciate your help.
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I misread your post on my first pass–I thought you stated that Hosteria Grappolo d’Oro was miserable! It seemed strong, but not entirely inappropriate given that the post above yours from Kathrynanne also panned the same place. Two people on the internet can’t be wrong. I’ll drop Hosteria Grappolo d’Oro from our short list.
It’s awesome to see a positive consensus forming around certain establishments. Thanks for seconding Giglio and Trattoria Monti. As I mentioned in a previous reply, I don’t think Giglio will work for our young family, but I think Trattoria Monti could be a good option for us.
Al Moro sounds like a challenge I enjoy…so long as I can win over the proprietors and staff.
Thanks for your second post, erica1. Super helpful.
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So, I googled Mezza Luna because I narrowly assumed that the best carbonara had to be in Rome, or at least in Lazio, but I found an abundance of reviews and articles asserting the same as you. Sorry to doubt you, johntannerbbq. It looks like a hole in the wall patronized by neighbors—seems kind of perfect. Thanks for the recommendation. Will add Mezza Luna to our list.
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Tavernaccia da Bruno would be a great option if you’re bringing the kids, as the service is quite excellent for Rome.
Thanks for the note, drginzo.
I’ve heard that da Bruno has warm, friendly service and is worth a trip. I think our dinner plans are lined up, but maybe for lunch?
Reporting back on our plans. Orvieto is still up in the air, but we’ve made the following decisions for Lucca and Rome. I’ll spare you the details as to why we’re giving preference to places that are within walking distance from our apartment and have outdoor tables.
Lucca: Osteria Miranda, Buca di Sant’Antonio, Gli Orti di Via Elisa, and Osteria Nova
Roma: Armando, Poldo e Gianna, Checco Er Carettiere, and Piatto Romano
Appreciate all your suggestions, even if they don’t appear on our list. I’ve saved them all in a Google map for another time.
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Ciao, tutti.
I always intended to circle back to this discussion in order to leave a detailed trip report complete with mouth-watering photos of irresistible dishes. However, our trip was completed seven months ago, and as more time passes, it’s clear that my envisioned report won’t ever get written. While the following feedback isn’t travelogue worthy, I hope that it adds some value to this site and serves as a thank you to all who offered advice.
In Orvieto:
Il Malandrino Bistrot: Solid Umbriana/Orvietana dishes with modern refinements. Primi and secondi were very good. Pleasant outdoor seating in a calmer area of Orvieto.
In Lucca:
Osteria Miranda: Outstanding. One of the best meals we’ve had anywhere. Everything was memorable: primi were creative, seasonal, and utterly delicious; secondi of pigeon and pork were amazing and perfectly cooked (I usually find proteins to be over-cooked in Italy). Amuse-bouches, bread, contorni, and wines were all also great. Outdoor setting near the city wall was pleasant and quiet. Staff were attentive without being fussy. Everything about this meal hit spot on. It was perfect.
Osteria Nova: Very similar experience to Osteria Miranda, but Osteria Nova ranks just slightly below in my opinion. Our meal was also very good from start to finish: amuse-bouche, primi, secondi, contorni, and wines. Looking back at my photos, I’m reminded that my secondo, while excellent, was spare with a deconstructed-like look, which is an approach to composition and plating that I don’t think lends itself well to Italian cuisine. I think this captures the difference between how Osteria Miranda and Osteria Nova approach their menus.
Buca di Sant’Antonio and Gli Orti di Via Elisa: These two were relatively disappointing. They were recommendations from our airbnb host. My impression of them is that they are well-established, perhaps even institutional, and that the Lucchese dine at them due to family traditions and familiarity. In the case of Buca di Sant’Antonio, I presume the custom of dining there for some Lucchese goes back generations. This sounds exactly like the sort of establishment I typically seek out when in Italy, but I thought the food at each was just fine, not great. I’ll note that someone with authority at Buca di Sant’Antonio, perhaps a member of the ownership family or a manager, was very attentive and genuinely invested in our table. I think this sort of treatment is why the Lucchese love these two ristoranti and keep returning.
I Gelati di Piero: Great gelato with lots of unique flavors. I think gelato is the sort of thing most can discover on their own, but I Gelati di Piero shouldn’t be passed over.
In Roma:
Armando al Pantheon: Terrific as usual. No need to write more.
Poldo e Gianna: This was a new find for us, and we loved it. It’s hard to understand why this osteria isn’t getting mentioned on sites like this one.The Roman pastas were excellent, and the secondi were just as good. There are several tables outside in a quiet alley set among lushly planted pots. Service was great. Poldo e Gianna will go into our regular rotation. Reservations are a must.
Checco Er Carettiere: We wanted to spend an evening in Trastevere, and Checco Er Carettiere was our best shot for dinner in Trastevere. It was fine—primi and secondi were all satisfying, but not exactly special. Service was indifferent. Not a bad option for dinner, but there are lots of really good options in Rome.
Piatto Romano: We were directed to Piatto Romano via a Katie Parla recommendation from 2016 and another brief endorsement from 2024. We’d recommend it, too. They did a great job with Cacio e Pepe, Carbonara, and Coda alla Vaccinara. They also offered lots of interesting contori options that I haven’t seen elsewhere in Rome. Service was pleasant and helpful to start, but when the local Romani started filling tables later in the evening, we started to feel invisible. Still, it was a good experience, and we’d be happy to go back.
Grazie per il vostro aiuto ed arrivederci a presto.
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Given how much I love seeing other photos here, I’m returning to share a few of my own:
Osteria Miranda: Sformato with poached egg
Osteria Miranda: Sweetbreads
Osteria Miranda: Primo with duck ragu
Osteria Miranda: Primo with stomach
Osteria Miranda: Pork
Osteria Nova: Primo with shrimp crudo
Osteria Nova: Duck
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