San Sebastián

For those following this thread, here is a recent “best restaurants of San Sebastián” article that is quite solid (from the author whom I know).

The new Sa Taula (“The Table” in catalán) gives me a bit of pause (but I haven’t been) only because if you don’t know your dining partners sitting around the big, wooden 10-person table, it could possibly be a “hit or miss” experience. But English speakers have given it rave reviews for the creativity of the dishes and the owners’ warm hospitality.

Everyone arrives at once, at 9 pm. And it’s open from April until November.
Like dining at a friend’s house, it works best, I think, booked by a group of your friends.
The two catalán chefs offer a “surprise”, improvised menu only, priced at 65 or 95 with natural wines. There is no kitchen, just a microwave, a hot plate, a sous-vide and a Thermomix. An interesting concept.

We’ve been somewhat underwhelmed by Muka, the former space of Ni Neu in the Kursaal, as the décor downstairs is rather spartan and the vegetable forward menu from their grill, to us, not that interesting, but…
it’s a very handy spot for vegetarians (very creative vegetable dishes) or just to have a bite on the terrace with lovely water views, where the Urumea River meets the Cantabrian sea. And there’s counter seating in front of the open kitchen to watch the action. And the bread with olive oil is delicious. It’s part of the IXO group of the chef of Mugaritz.

The others, we’ve enjoyed very much.

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Thanks for this! I just spent the last hour or so gently falling down the San Sebastian rabbit hole :smiley:

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I’m glad it was a gentle fall. :grinning:

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About Carabineiros: As usual, if you eat shellfish way away from their origin, the price goes up exponentially. In Huelva, this is the going price: https://mariscodeislacristina.com/producto/carabineros-o-brillantes-de-huelva/
Same things with perceves: I pay 20 to 25 Euros / kg, In Lisbon they can reach 75 at Corte Ingles, and double that in restaurants…
So eat the local shellfish, not the “imported” one.

Interesting that ANTONIO charges more for carabineros from the Huelva area (not so far from Zahara) than Pescaderias Coruneses in Madrid; I am surprised by that…is this because Zahara is a tourist zone? I certainly have no complaint about the quality of the carabineros, or anything else I’ve sampled at ANTONIO. I am so enamored by that restaurant that I choose not to peer too closely at the prices of what I am ordering. And since I eat only one meal a day…rationalize, rationalize!

Has anyone here watched the Jose Andes’ tv show about his time with his family on Lanzarote? He goes to the dock to buy carabineros…that episode is what drew me to Lanzarote, although I don’t recall if I tasted carabineros there…

Yes, we have watched, several times, actually, the José Andrés episode in Lanzarote, which is what drew us to the island in November for the Saborea Lanzarote Gastronomic Festival, staying at the lovely Palacio de Ico in charming Teguise, whose restaurant this year won a Repsol sun.
We did enjoy carabineros once, at the beautiful hotel-restaurant, César Lanzarote, my favorite hotel of all the lodgings that we visited, just exquisite in every way. It was prepared with broken eggs and potatoes. Yumm!
At El Risco in Famara we ordered the prawns from La Santa, smaller than I expected them to be.

We’ve never opted for carabineros in the Basque Country, that I can recall. We focus on wild caught fish, as in Asturias, and Basque rib steak. Locally caught hake, Dover sole, monkfish, sea bream, sea bass, turbot, tuna, virrey (also known as rey, alfonsino, palometa roja)…

On this most recent trip we indulged in turbot, rodaballo. in the Uribe, Bizkaia, at Katxi,
sea bream, besugo, at Joxe Mari in Orio (where Somebody Feed Phil filmed), tuna stew, marmitako, both at Antonio Boulevard, San Sebastián and Uŕiti in Gamiz (near Bilbao) because wonderful tuna is in season, hake in green sauce, merluza en salsa verde with shrimp and clams, at Garai in the Duranguesado, fresh anchovies straight from the pier at TX in Getaria, which the owner of Txomin Etxaniz prepared for me, rice with lobster, arroz con bogavante, at Txoko by Enrique Fleishman, also in Getaria.

.Who says Basque can’t prepare an excellent rice dish??
The paëllas on display at the outdoor market in St-Jean-de-Luz, Iparralde, looked wonderful. We wished, once again, that we had opted for a rental there to take advantage of the bounty within the market.

Speaking of rice dishes and our friend, mikelg of Tours by Basques, we met him at new The Rice Factory in Urduliz (Bizkaia) and enjoyed a great rice dish of gamba roja made with the Molino Roca brand, now my rice brand of choice.

But at Bedua in Zumaia, we opted for Basque rib steak, their famous txuleta.

And at the wedding we attended in the Goierri, the gorgeous Basque Highlands south of Tolosa, the reception was at a local cider house, with that typical cider house menu of tortilla de bacalao, bacalao frito con pimientos (cod, cod and more cod), txuleta, Idiazábal cheese with apple paste, like quince paste, accompanied by walnuts, plus all the cider one can drink from the barrels during the txotx, the traditional opening of the spiket of the barrels, to drink directly from them. A wonderful, sloppy mess!

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@Monchique
At my El Corte Inglés hypermarket here in the Madrid suburbs, yesterday there were 2 specimens of percebes/perceves. The ones from Galicia were double the price of the ones I assume came from the Algarve. When in the market of Olhão, I was surprised by the relative “low” price of the perceves, compared to what I experience here.

Here is a sign at a restaurant (that we liked, A FURNA) in Muxia; but that’s restaurant, not market, price.

At my hipermercado ECI yesterday the carabineros were priced at 149.95/kilo and the Galician percebes at 99.95/kilo. I just realized that those lower priced percebes, at 39.95/kilo aren’t from the Algarve, but instead from Morocco. On our recent Feb. trip to Marrakech, Tangier and Rabat we saw none at the markets, nor on the restaurant menus, which, of course, wasn’t surprising. Food was exquisite, but no shellfish!

Now… back to our regularly scheduled programming—SAN SEBASTIÁN!

G is great. I know her from our college days. Back in 03 or so she took us around SS, EVERYBODY knew her.

One shellfish dish that we do order in the Basque Country is spider crab, txangurro a la donostiarra, spider crab meat baked in its shell with a delicious sauce and covered with butter and bread crumbs.

A great place to have this iconic dish: Rekondo, with gorgeous views of the entire bay.

An old Saveur recipe-

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