Taberna dos Mercadores does close between lunch and dinner (at least when we were there). There was a longish line at 2pm and I believe they sat everyone. But I think if you come early enough for lunch or dinner you’ll be fine.
Enjoying the report
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Interesting. This has been picked up by another UK news outlet:
Not sure what they’re trying to prove… but I can tell you it does not exist in Portugal. It all came from one article in the Expresso that has been disproved since. As a restaurateur if you have regular customers, you will offer them a coffee and a digestive free of charge. Is that discrimination against the tourists who would pay for it? Much more worried about the new fashion of adding service / tips on the bill…
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Here’s the hack for Taberno dos Mercadores (for dinner, not sure about lunch, but guess it would be similar). Although the restaurant’s website claims it opens for dinner at 7 pm, that is not correct; it opens at 5:30. I did not eat lunch so I could enjoy a (really) early dinner. (And enjoy it, I did.) I arrived at 4:45 and was first on the line. Turned out they had 5 unreserved tables at 5:30, so a bunch of us got right in. Most of the tables are for one or two. They did seat a table for 3 that included a toddler. Probably, they could have accommodated a table for 4, but they would have had to have been early on the line. It is a TINY restaurant. (I know, this is expressed everywhere, but truly, it is.)
The one server was efficient and kind, and the meal was spectacular (in my opinion). I intend to try again on my last night here (Thursday night) because there were so many appealing things on the menu, and because my flight on Friday morning is very early (leaving for the airport at 6 a.m.) I ate the shrimps with garlic (translated into English on the menu as something like “shrimp in a pan”) and lamb chops with roast potatoes and broccoli. After all that, I had dessert that the server recommended: apple meringue pie. (I make a pretty decent lemon meringue pie, and this was a new one on me…It was good, but I confess, I am partial to the lemon version.)
The shrimp were hands-down the best shrimp in olive oil and garlic I have ever had. I could wish that the bread was better (could wish this all over, actually), but one of those dishes that dipping cardboard in the residual sauce would have been satisfying.
So, this is a stewed dish really, and delicious despite the lamb not being pink (normally, I would say this is my preference). But these were thin chops, so not pink inside, but decidedly also not overcooked. It was a delicious dish, and I ate it all.
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So, slightly off-beat suggestions got taken and thoroughly enjoyed yesterday. Though the weather has been comfortable (not hot) the ice cream at Gelataria Portuense was superb. I had salty caramel and a special pistachio flavor that had some little bits of crunch caramel in it…both amazing, and I may head over there after dinner tonight, if I have room. I thank you for the recommendation; the shop was on a little street I had not wandered down, and in any case was very unassuming from the outside. I would have never seen it, if I had not been looking.
Then there was the “heart attack on a plate,” a.k.a. “Francesinha.” I took a suggestion from a friend of an H.O. friend, and went to Lado B. Honestly, I was shocked at how much I enjoyed this sandwich. It was just very tasty, and especially the sausage inside and the sauce. All very delicious. And best of all, the place (for only a slight decrease in price, but this bothered me not at all) offered a half Francesinha, which was manageable for my appetite. So, thanks for this suggestion as well. I would not have tried this food, without the encouragement.
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A return, early, trip to Taberna dos Mercadoras this evening. What a lovely welcome. The waiter recalled my previous meal there (okay, it was only a few days ago, but still). Another insanely good meal tonight. Hard to decide which was my preference. I do think that the single best dish (aside from that hazelnut dessert) I ate here was the octopus and rice from the oven dish I had tonight. There were little bits of fried onion throughout, and not sure what else, but it was sublime. A young researcher from Mexico City, by way of New Zealand was solo dining at the next table, and he had the same entrée. His first night here in Porto/my last, but we agreed, the dinner here is totally satisfying.
Also, I had the clams tonight. I don’t think I can overdose on these:
No room for dessert, alas. Tomorrow, a new thread from Lagos begins…Boa noite.
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Really enjoying your dining notes! Thanks so much for sharing your dining adventures with us.
In Lagos, for very traditional, family run, you might enjoy Cantinho Algarvio, recommended by our hosts there and where we found a very warm welcome—in the center of town.
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If you’re going to Lagos, try the “Tasca do Kiko” in Meia Praia near the marina, Easy walking distance from the historical center. My favorite in the area. https://www.facebook.com/tascadokiko/
I’ll second that! Another rec of our hostess and just right for small plates at night.
