Two-month-old Quallys Nusantara Kitchen offers home-cooked “masakan kampung” (traditional Malay village cooking) by the cool rock DJ-turned-chef, Yusniza Ayu Yusoff aka Kak Ayu. Kak Ayu has 35 years of cooking experience, and has managed a number of eateries in town before settling on Quallys. When she is not cooking, Kak Ayu also pursues her other hobby: rock music, working as a club DJ at several night-spots in Northern Malaysia and across the border to Thailand.
But it’s her cooking prowess which has garnered her quite a following. Kak Ayu revels in using the freshest ingredients which she finds in the market in the morning to prepare her daily offerings. Our lunch today consisted of:
- Roti jala with gulai ayam - roti jala are lacy crepes, eggy and rich from the addition of coconut milk to its batter, and tinged bright yellow with turmeric. The accompaniment to roti jala is gulai ayam, Malay-style chicken-and-aromatic curry.
Kak Ayu makes the prettiest roti jala I’d ever seen, and very tasty ones, too. Her chicken curry was perfect - a blend of slowly-sauteed spices with small purple shallots - she eschewed large onions, which she felt do not have the sweetness nor intensity in flavor compared to shallots. Kak Ayu also uses fresh coconut milk to thicken the gravy of her curries.
- Asam pedas with salmon fish-head - this is the Northern Malaysian spicy-sour fish stew. The version here uses a whole large salmon-head - a delicacy, as locals here love the gelatinous bits from a fish-head. The dish gets its heat from a combination of fresh chilis and dried chilis, blended with shallots, lemongrass and galangal, to form the base. Tamarind juice are used to give it tartness. Okra, tomatoes and fresh torch-ginger are added towards the end.
- Kacang botol goreng dengan petai - a very tasty stir-fry of wing beans and stink-beans, flavoured with chilis, onion, dried shrimps and “belacan” (fermented shrimp paste).
This certainly was the tastiest Malay cooking I’d had in a long while - a testimony to Kak Ayu, who’s very meticulous in her cooking.
Address
Quallys by Kak Ayu
144I, Jalan Burmah (Burmah Road), 10500 Penang, Malaysia
Tel: +6017 529 6674
Opening hours: 11am to 8pm Tuesday to Sunday. Closed on Mondays.