[Penang] Lunch at Sifu Nyonya Cuisine, Rope Walk

It was pretty popular, but its cooking is more Chinese-Hokkien than actual Straits-Chinese - the latter favour more intense chili and spice flavours. Straits-Chinese or Nyonya cooking adapted Malay flavours (lemongrass, galangal, fermented shrimp/belacan, pandan, etc.) over centuries, whilst the Chinese-Hokkiens stuck more closely to their Chinese roots by toning down on chili, pungent local herbs, and even coconut milk usage.

Some things were also not right at Sifu:

  1. The inchi kabin spiced fried chicken was served with Thai-style sweet chili sauce, instead of the traditional Worcestershire sauce with cut, red chilis. This is a culinary faux pas which a Straits Chinese/Nyonya will never commit.

  2. The nasi ulam was tinted blue (using butterfly pea flower). Straits Chinese/Nyonya never tints nasi ulam blue. It’s usually yellow from the use of fresh turmeric, which was also absent from the dish here.

  3. All the three desserts lacked the taste of fresh, thick coconut milk, nor the sweet-savoury balance of flavours requisite in Nyonya desserts.

IMO, Penang’s three best Nyonya restaurants are Ceki, Bibik’s Kitchen and Baba Phang, all of which are Michelin-selected.

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