Just a couple of annotations to Parn’s excellent rundown.
The RATP mapping service is excellent and there is a free app that you can download. I try to avoid google maps in Paris – there are lots of mistakes; just last night a friend couldn’t find the restaurant where we were meeting because his uber driver was using google maps.
I believe Parn meant Bistrot du Maquis, not Bistrot du Marquis. The food is good enough (although not exceptional) there but I had a very bad experience: we were talking at table when the bill was presented, we (two couples) had our credit cards out and instructed Madame to split the bill – since we were talking, we did not examine the bill. She did split it, and we signed, and then immediately after we signed, we noted that there was a mistake on the bill. We asked for a correction, but Madame refused, saying we had signed and the matter was final. I have rarely encountered such pettiness in France, and I feel that life is too short to have to deal with such people, so I have not and will not go back, even though I had been there a number of times before. When I mentioned this to a friend who sometimes ate there, he said that he had heard other stories about Madame.
One more to add to the non-touristy side of Montmartre: a.léa in the old L’Arcane space on rue Lamarck; I believe just opened at the end of last year.
