Paris trip from 12/24 - 12/31

Regional Dining Discussions France
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41

I spoke a bit inartfully, I think, so let me clarify.

If not adjusting for the price (I think now 44E for 5 course dinner, IIRC), and ignoring the environment (a.k.a. fun factor), I’d note that often 1 and occasionally 2 of the 5 dishes I’d consider just “meh”. Not bad, to be clear, just sort of ok. But that means 4 or sometimes 3 of the dishes are very good to excellent.

On top of that, I include the fact that the “twists” are different (in a good way) from “pure” French fare, that the variety is nice, that we really enjoy the convivial environment (regular readers of this board may recall that for most restaurants I don’t weight this factor very highly), and the price and so qualité-prix, and this is why we always return.

And as it happens, the two most recent times we’ve been, I’ve particularly enjoyed the meat course (duck one time, and the veal last time), and for me it’s actually been getting a bit better, not worse. But there is little doubt that there is variability in what’s offered, and I can certainly see why, even if we all had near-identical tastes, any one meal might not be that good. Plus if one doesn’t enjoy the “formula”, that part surely isn’t changing.

But unadjusted for price I’ve had better food at many other more expensive Paris restaurants. So if I were only coming to Paris for 3-4 days once a year or less, then I wouldn’t put it on top of my list. And that’s really the context of my comment re “not always the best food”.

[Parn reminds me that it’s actually 6 courses; I never know/remember whether to count the amuse. But that additional course only increases the value.]

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42

I agree with you, but do not understand why you will not share what so impressed you in the meal you had last month? Not talking about in general here, asking about specifically, so I can understand what those dishes were that were that you are basing your recent opinion on. Of course the specifics are relevant. Obviously what I might choose off of a menu is going to be different from what you choose, but if I don’t tell you what I chose, and if I liked it or not, with specificity, then what on earth would make anyone’s opinion relevant to anyone else? Same is true with eating a no-choice menu, and what I liked or didn’t like and why. I am only reporting what I liked (or not), and anyone reading can say, “Oh, I know from reading what @ninkat likes over time that I will not like that restaurant,” or vice versa.

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43

Yes, thanks for clarifying @andygottlieb42, and it does sound like you have had consistently better luck than I had on my visit. I was excited to try the restaurant, as you noted, and based on what you say, I would be inclined to give it another try, when I am looking for the kind of “twists” you describe. (I had worse than “meh” for a couple of courses and solidly “meh” for the rest.)

44

My wife and I and a friend who lives in Paris had dinner at Pierre Sang in Oberkampf a few years ago. None of the three of us liked it that much, and none of us feel the need to go back.

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45

Change of subject. @Carmenere, you live in the fifth. My wife and I used to enjoy Au Bon Coin, 21, rue de la Collegiale. But the laat time we were there, a few years ago, it seemed to have gone downhill. Anything new? Thanks.

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46

Imagine my surprise coming back to the thread and seeing 27(!) replies. So much good info and lots to think through. Since Pierre Sang has become the hot topic, I think where I’ve settled is we shall have to try it for ourselves. I go in knowing that at a minimum, it appears to be very reasonably priced and potentially could be a very enjoyable meal. BUT, if we happen to not enjoy it, then I suppose we were well warned by Ninkat and a couple others. But that difference of opinions is what makes food so fun and I’m excited to find out for ourselves!

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47

That was hilarious and delightfully light-footed, thank you.

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48

Telling you whether anything is new or not might be a little tricky, for although Au Bon Coin is a five-minute walk from home, I went there only twice. The first time alone, to find out whether the famed calf’s liver was as good as it was supposed to be, since I’m a calf’s liver fan.

The calf’s liver was indeed a beautiful chunk of the stuff, but it was cut very thick and completely raw in the middle. At least Le Caméléon in Montparnasse (which served a foie de veau of similar size and shape) cooked it properly.
The second time I went there with a friend (also a neighborhood local) and we found the meat to be stringy, the potatoes to be raw in the middle (seems there was a pattern), and the service just millimeters away from being rude. So I never went again.

I may have a tip for you, though, for just a few steps away from Au Bon Coin, there’s a recently opened bistrot, Dame Augustine, which is generally raved about. On avenue des Gobelins, right-hand sidewalk as you walk uphill. I haven’t tried it yet, but I have never heard anything negative about it.

And there’s another Au Bon Coin in Paris which has never left anything to be desired: on rue des Cloÿs, in the 18th arrondissement, North slope of the Butte Montmartre. Excellent, simple restaurant.

If you need more tips about this part of the Cinquième, please ask me. The area was never very lucky with restaurants; we’ve had good ones, but they seem to be short-lived. Things seem to get more interesting as you move in the direction of the Panthéon or the Seine.

49

Kitchen Galerie Bis is no more. It was sold, new place there is Oktobre – I’ve not been so far, but it looks as though it might be interesting.

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50

Thanks!

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51

I loved my lunch there in March and hope the former Sous Chef (I think) now owner keeps the high expectations bar that was set for us. Will be returning there in December.

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52

I was going to add a report to my blog and link to it here, but I’m having difficulties. Suffice it to say that we went today for lunch and it was excellent. At 32€ for 2, 39€ for three, it’s a great deal – high quality, inventive food. And the villa where Picasso lived from 1936-1955 (and painted Guernica) is just up the street.

53

Thanks for the recommendation for Le Boeuf Volant. We stayed in the neighborhood for a month last fall and will be there even longer this coming fall. Knew it was there but nothing else. We’ll give it a try.

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54

Happy to hear that news. Thanks for sharing the update.

55

Ah, so after a few days of deliberation, we decided to book Pavillon Faubourg Saint-Germain. My wife read your descriptions of the various hotel locations and was quite swayed by your passionate arguments against her other choices :slight_smile:

So now given we are Paris novices, I would love thoughts on things nearby that are must try! We’re going to be there for five full days and can really only imagine ourselves spending parts of 2, maybe 3, of those days doing the more traditional sightseeing / museums. We will most definitely try to spend our time there walking around the neighborhoods, sampling food and just trying to soak in the atmosphere! Thanks!

56

Back to the steak frites question. I have a guest in Paris upcoming who would like to eat steak frites there…I suddenly thought of Le Severo where I have never been. Anyone, been? been recently? have a thought on this question?

57

I haven’t been to Le Severo since I don’t even remember when, but steak and côte de bœuf is what you go there for.
Off the beaten track, why not try L’Aller-Retour (two locations in Paris) or the classic Le Bœuf Couronné at La Villette?

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58

Pain au fromage, and both pistachio and raspberry financiers, at Maison Kayser (there are two near your location)

Poilâne, for their original Pain Poilâne (light sourdough) plus apple tarts, “punitions”

CBS caramels at Maison Le Roux Chocolatier (though the ones they give you with the check at Breizh Café are slightly better!)

Check out the patisseries on rue du Bac, including Des Gateaux et du Pain (especially the fruit tarts) and nearby Philippe Conticini

Pierre Hermé to try ispahan macarons and/or croissant

Breizh Café for crepes/galettes

L’Avant Comptoir or next door L’Avant Comptoir de la Mer for a fun, tasty standup “tapas” meal (they’re open continuously and don’t take reservations, so useful if you don’t have reservations or for some other reason want to eat early or are hungry late)

Check out La Grand Epicerie (the ultimate foodie upscale supermarket), even if you don’t actually buy much there

Maison Verot charcutier

Patrick Roger chocolatier, for the (chocolate) bars from beans from around the world (for the other chocolates, I find many other places better)

The Monoprix on Rue de Rennes (the downstairs supermarket interesting for me to browse; the upstairs my wife likes to buy gifts; think sort of a French Target with great qualité-prix)

Grom for gelato (maybe not so much a December thing…)

Huguette for oysters

…and try the Relais de L’Entrecote nearby for steak frites (when I asked one time on that late lamented other board if it was worth the trek to try Le Relais de Venise, since I’d heard it was better, the overwhelming consensus was no, the difference not great enough. Having never been to Venise, I can neither confirm nor deny)

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59

Thank you! I do love Maison Kayser from my time in NYC!

Will gladly take any other restaurant recs you have as well!

60

I remember a delicious steak dinner at Le Severo years ago. I believe it was a favorite of Mark Bittman.

Then there is La Table d’Hugo Desnoyer, the boucherie/restaurant in the 16e. I’ve been several times and it was always phenomenal. Are they still serving lunches, I wonder?

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