[Oakland, Fruitvale] Nyum Bai- Cambodian eats

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The retro-modern space looks adorably inviting, with pops of pastel pink and baby blue. Cambodian rock plays nonstop, and nearly destroyed album covers decorate one of the walls. But the area that feels the most Cambodian is actually outside, in the open-air, teal garage where incense burns. It’s a great spot to order the machoo kroeung soup, the single dish that made me utter, “Oh my god, this is hella Cambodian.” Pork spareribs float in a soup visibly full of kroeung, the spice paste consisting of lemongrass, shallots, galangal, kaffir lime leaves, and fresh turmeric that makes Cambodian food taste Cambodian. The broth braced in its herbaceous quality, with crunchy water spinach and meaty pork that fell off the bone.

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Nyum Bai’s menu is compact and staunchly Cambodian, with starters like a ngoum banana salad. It’s a tangy jumble of banana blossoms, cabbage, basil, green and red bell peppers, crushed peanuts, mint and cucumbers sitting in a sweet, shallow pool of lime dressing. For an entree of kuri , a coconut milk chicken curry with roasted potatoes, Ms. Yun uses kroeung , a paste she makes from lemongrass, turmeric, garlic, shallots, makrut lime leaves and galangal.

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Chien trey & ngoum mango- delicious. Lightly breaded and perfectly fried. I thought it’d be too American. But just a light, fragrant basil based dressing with green papaya added the perfect touch of Cambodian to the dish.

Finally I got the amok. Its as described by @zippo1 and @e_yoko- rich, fragrant and delicious. Its been a while since I had the amok at Battambang, but Nyum Bai’s was at least as good.

Koh, this time with bamboo shoots. Good as usual.

Oh, the glass noodles sound quite good. Also have to try the bok la hong, cha troup, cha kroeung sach moan in future visits. How are their sweets?

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Last week, Yun decided to shut down the restaurant completely for the time being, “to decompress and come up with a new plan.” As she tells Eater SF, that new plan will most likely entail reopening in a couple of months as quite a different kind of restaurant: Nyum Bai will shift to fast-casual service, and serve a menu focused on takeout-friendly Cambodian street foods instead of the family-style home cooking that had become the restaurant’s claim to fame.

That’s pretty astute to switch to fast casual takeout friendly food. Though her family style home cooking really shined and will be missed.