“Not Too Sweet” or Too Sweet to Fail? Sugar’s evolving role in Asian cuisine has many fans—and just as many haters.

I don’t like Thai cuisine, at least the version we get around here, because it’s too sugary. I mentioned this to a friend, who said he didn’t find it sweet. We went to lunch at a Thai place, and from the start (satay skewers) everything was cloying to me.

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