I was in Coyoacán the next day to do some shopping and also to visit the Frida Kahlo Museum again and also the Leon Trotsky House Museum which is nearby. For lunch, I went to La Barraca Valenciana, a Spanish restaurant in Coyoacán that, in addition to Spanish fare such as paella and patatas bravas, also serves Mexican tortas.
I had the Gallega torta ($230), which had warm bacalao / salt cod in a slightly spicy slightly sweet sauce that had olives and I think almonds. There were also slices of avocado in there. The sandwich roll was airy and slightly crusty. A delicious sandwich, and fairly substantial. They also have some Mexican craft beers - I drank a very nice Imperial stout from Espantapájaros brewery.
For dinner, I went to a location of Oaxacan restaurant group and mezcal maker Los Danzantes, which is next to the Jardín Centenario plaza in the center of Coyoacán.
Free bread
I started with the Hoja Santa ($230) a dish of hoja santa leaves stuffed with Oaxacan cheese and also a goat cheese I think, on a tomatillo based sauce. Delicious, with some gooey stringiness from the Oaxacan cheese and some pleasant funkiness from the goat cheese.
I wanted to try a dish with mole and my waiter suggested the Enchiladas de Pato ($400) which is duck enchiladas with two moles - Oaxacan mole negro and mole verde from Michoacán, topped with queso añejo and onions. This was very good. Both moles were delicious - the Oaxacan black mole was rich, thick, and slightly thick. It tasted of dried fruit, chilis, and a bit of chocolate. The green mole was more bright and fresh tasting but with still some richness - I believe it is thickened with pumpkin seeds. The duck enchiladas were corn tortillas filled with shredded duck “carnitas.”
Also had a few glasses of Danzantes mezcal.
Not food - pictures of Coyoacán:
