[Mexico] Baja Calif. Sur: Seafood, Tacos & Whales

Foodhunter · February 1, 2020, 12:00am

So will you bus down to Laredo? If so that means that you will go by Santa Rosalia which has a church that was prefabricated and designed by Eiffel. It’s one of the most unique looking towns in the Baja a lot of wood structures and some definite French architecture.
It’s was owned by a French mining company.

Then you will go by mulege which is very unique also kind of like an oasis. But one of the most impressive parts and I’ve always enjoyed on the drive down is after leaving Mulege on your way to Laredo you go by the emerald coves and desert islands!
Enjoy!

Presunto · February 1, 2020, 4:42am

I’m in San Ignacio now, another whale watching spot, but photos in this post are from the other day.

The wind blows hard enough that there’s no whale excursion. Besides, there are hardly tourists at the moment let alone whale watching tourists (us two). If the wind dies down a little maybe we could go to the lagoon but the tour agency will call the hotel tomorrow and let us know. You win some, you lose some. Nature owns you nothing.

Looking at these taco photos I’m glad I ate so many in the previous town, because here in San Ignacio, a tiny community in the middle of nowhere, there are 3 places to eat dinner and they are simple, not to mention expensive. Simple food and expensive, one doesn’t really have much to choose from here.

Look away now, Brisket.

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Where I ate the tacos. Took this photo at 8am, street was empty, most shops were closed.

Sunset ceviches

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Clockwise: octopus, fish, scallop, prawn ceviches.

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One of my nicknames at home is “fruit monster”. I really love fruits and eat a huge amount throughout the day. Bought a case from a roadside stall. The guide asked for me where the strawberries came from, seller said from a farm in XYZ, guide confirmed it’s from Baja and not San Diego or somewhere in California. The reason I wanted to know was that many fruits sold here come from California. Quite crazy as there are so many fruit farms down here.

Some crisps we have been eating. The “adobadas” is worthless. Not spicy at all, only sour. The jalapeño flavour is OK, but habañero is my fav.

Bought the habañero again. I also like this “salsa negra” but the partner found the smell off-putting. Worcestershire sauce and soya sauce flavour.

Presunto · February 1, 2020, 5:29am

It was no ordinary day, at least for us. After 10 minutes in the boats 3 huge friendly, inquisitive whales approached our boat. They were in the middle of courting, 2 males and 1 female. They hung around the boat for half an hour, circling round and round, rolling about endlessly, staying in position under the boat, having a good look at everyone, courting, playing, lots of staring at us. And THEN finally they came real close so that we could touch and rub them. It was nothing short of spectacular. Everyone was so happy and quietly emotional. So this is what it feels like when you realise your dream has come true.

The eyes are at the end of the mouth

They like to look at you whilst lying on their sides

The massive head lying on their side, eye in near centre of the photo.

They are the size of a little submarine but you’ll be surprised how gentle and careful they are when they come close to the boat.

Look at you again and again

See what I mean? Some have so many white markings they look almost completely white.

Me in blue jacket. Whales are patient and fair. They go to both sides of the boat, going from front to back so that everyone gets a chance to touch them.

Me again, at another spot in the lagoon. She came to me and let me touch her, just the right amount. Not too long and not too short. Other people didn’t get a chance this time for some reason. They cried out “what about me?”. I keep looking at these photos and feel emotional over and over again.

FYI, the whales only exhibit these behaviours in Baja Sur. When I watched this BBC documentary about them in the gym tears were streaming down my face. Nobody has ever seen me cry (save for one), luckily I was lone in the gym. Here I am in Mexico making my dreams of seeing whales come true.

https://www.nationalgeographic.com/photography/proof/2017/08/gray-whales-baja-mexico/

shrinkrap · February 1, 2020, 5:59am

That was the wrong link. This one from Eater is better.

shrinkrap · February 1, 2020, 6:00am

What is their interest in us? Maybe it’s in the NG article.

“Our planet’s biodiversity and wildlife are usually best enjoyed from a distance, to preserve both their safety and ours. The situation in San Ignacio is not the norm and the formula is unique to this place. But it’s an inspirational look at how one community’s relationship with whales has undergone a wonderfully bizarre transformation.”

Presunto · February 1, 2020, 2:43pm

Whales are naturally curious and social animals. There was terrible animosity between them and us back in the whaling days, but it’s thought that they forgave us and wanted to make peace. They come to the lagoons every year to mate and give birth so it’s better to this way. The guides say if Mexican government is good at anything it’s protecting wildlife

Dolphins also seek human interaction. They swim alongside our boat, jump in front of the boat, look at you directly and make tick-tick sound. They also swim alongside whales in the lagoon.

I hope to see a mother lift her calf up. Some mothers do that, they want their calves to be touched as well (there are video clips online).

Presunto · February 3, 2020, 4:38am

My first carnitas and they are Michoacan.

I make this sometimes using leftover confit duck. Next time I’ll add salsa, gherkins and raw garlic to mine.

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Dinner at the most simple, cheap, local place purely out of curiosity. The type of place most other tourists in town wouldn’t dare step foot inside (questionable cleanliness, dingy, low-income clientele etc). So far everyone treats us kindly and has patience for us. We find Baja people relaxed and courteous. We have had enough with most countries in S.E. Asia so this is a rather pleasant and almost stress-free holiday.

At first I thought the white stuff was mayonaise but it was cream. Mayo would ruin it for us. Crispy (deep-) fried tacos with 2 different meats. Crumbled cheese and some simple vegs on top and inside.

emglow101 · February 3, 2020, 4:57am

The real deal .

Presunto · February 3, 2020, 4:57am

Only one thing is sold here: tacos with things in the head that’s been boiled. I never saw it open during the day. Meat taco places tend to be open in the evening. Also, the texts are crude and the shop is amateurish. Most places hire real artists who paint shop signs and adverts.

Something like this

A bakery was getting ready for the opening this week. An artist was painting the texts and pictures for 2 days. It’s part of my hotel so I saw it every day. They do the same in many developing countries. I especially love painted movie posters.

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Common to see dolphin swim alongside whales

In this photo you can see the big eye. Adult grey whales’ eyes are golden, calves have blue eyes.

I did 5 whale watching trips so far and it’s fun to see reactions of new passengers. They all swoon, gasp and start talking to whales in baby voice when they appear. Young Panamanian in the photo was no exception.

This behaviour is called spy-hopping. They just want to look around to see what’s going on above water or simply stretching. One day we saw so many whales do it the whole time we were in the boat. Some day hardly any.

Lambchop · February 3, 2020, 11:34am

@Presunto, once again, thanks for posting your travel and eating adventures! The way you travel enables you to see the country beyond the country, as well as eat some of the foods many people would miss if they just stuck to the touristy areas. Good job! Also thrilled by your many encounters and touching of the whales. How exciting!

Agree with @Foodhunter, that it’s a very interesting, beautiful and unique strip of land. It ends in the most dramatic fashion too, at the very tip of the peninsula. I was on a deep sea fishing charter in the Pacific down there, but the water was so rough, everyone was getting sick, or having to take Dramamine. Our captain headed back over to the Sea of Cortez, where the water was smooth as glass, and a huge gray whale breached right beside the boat. Didn’t stay up long enough to touch, but was so exciting for me to see the huge mammal up close.

As far as the drool worthy fish tacos, I’ll have to content myself with the ones in San Diego, when we go there in 9 days. Hope the weather is good, will be great to see the sun again and enjoy milder temperatures.

Enjoy the rest of your trip - will be living vicariously through you.

Foodhunter · February 3, 2020, 5:02pm

Presunto: looks like your getting your wish! Awesome photos again. Looked like the wind is behaving for you. What I have noticed when I’m down there is that the wind cycles about every three to four days at this time of year. Then you will get three or four days of decent low to no wind.

Very happy for you and thanks for the great photos!

Presunto · February 5, 2020, 12:37am

Slight change of plan due to strong winds. Not possible to go out in a boat and not many whale tourists yet in San Ignacio. We hopped on the bus the next day to Loreto where we were very happy. Stayed there and ate and drank beer for 3 days and today we made it to Bahia Magdalena. Staying a whole week just to see whales. It’s expensive to be in this economically depressed fishing village an hour from a town of any size. The lodging is catered to whale tourists and everything is priced in US$. Right outside the hotel is what Americans describe as a " slum" but it’s really just normal Mexican houses, albeit shabby and slum-like to us first-worlders. The most scary part is walking round. (Feral) dogs everywhere and they are nasty. Don’t want to take any chances here.

Anyhow, I have no wifi in my room and I’m writing this in the dining area. Even here it’s abysmally slow. Another annoyance is the mozzies.

Last photos in Guerrero Negro. We walked down the town’s main road and ate a couple of things at different places for the last time. This fruit stall is in front of the only working cash machine in town so we went there every day to withdraw cash and eat 2 or 3 cups of fresh mixed fruits. The man can speak some English and we chatted every time.

Mexicans eat fruits with chilli sauce and salt

Locals order a big plate each of mixed ceviches and the tostadas are on a separate plate so they can spoon as much as they can on them.

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At the next place

And the last

Dinner around the corner from the hotel. We are always the first to arrive. Less crowded, sit where we want.

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They only have the 3 and chicken

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Some more whale photos from Laguna Ojo de Liebre. Hoping to have new encounters with whales here in Bahia Magdalena.

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Me in blue

The boat launch spot

If you don’t here from me again for a week that means I got bitten by rabid dogs and died… If not then when I get back to sunny and warm Loreto.

Presunto · February 5, 2020, 10:30pm

Got to San Ignacio at lunch time and stayed the night only. Too bad about the wind. It was hard enough to walk on the street with all that sand in my eyes. The village has a few hundred inhabitants, feels remote, desolate and there’s absolutely nothing to do, and only about 3 or 4 places eat the most simple food at a high cost. The tour people said no idea when they could get the boat out so we didn’t want to waste time hanging around. Maybe better luck next time.

Fish under the vegs, rice and beans.

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The main village square. Empty on this day.

The old church everyone takes photos of

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I don’t go near a church let alone go in one. Since there’s absolutely nothing here to photograph I decided to test my 10 year old camera’s low light ability.

The only proof of me being in San Ignacio

Street signs are hand-painted

Dinner was simple, didn’t really have much of a choice.

There are different things on this plate, hence the name. I only know flauta, aroz roja, chile rellenos.

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Presunto · February 7, 2020, 12:23am

Was happy to leave windy San Ignacio and the mozzies. There are more mozzies than flies, and there are a lot of flies. We got butchered by mozzies as soon as we got out of the taxi and it was hell wasting energy fighing them off.

It’s a very nice drive from San Ignacio to Loreto. Bus stopped for a quick break along the way. I went to the toilet and the partner ordered ceviche but when I returned there was this. Prawns, scallops and clams.

First thing I did in Loreto… went straight to the bar. Finally, a hoppy beer! Only the IPA and the imperial stout are OK. Their amateurish craft beers are purely for tourists and expats, and the few Mexicans who could afford them.

First dinner in Loreto

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The shells. Very thick and heavy. I have had ceviche version, too.

digga · February 7, 2020, 1:16am

That seems a bit harsh. Amateurish to you but aren’t you one of the tourists that you indict in that statement?

We’ve traveled to places that have historically not produced the hop-forward beers we’ve become accustomed to but we adapted and have been quite happy with the less aggressive beers. It’s just not their thing.

Presunto · February 7, 2020, 9:40pm

If I thought it was harsh and didn’t like it I wouldn’t go there 2 times a day. In fact, that’s where I will head straight to as soon as I return to Loreto in 4 days time.

Presunto · February 7, 2020, 10:32pm

I don’t usually eat breakfast but wanted to try Mexican at least once.

Fried torilla bits with cheese

There’s a tortilla underneath, of course.

Fantastic lunch at this place not in the centre of town. First thing I eat in Loreto again is these “chocolata” clams at this restaurant. In 4 days time. Am already dreaming about the clams. Their seafood tacos are equally delicious.

A chilli paste for tortilla chips

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The cook told me this chilli sauce is good with the clams. I said “very nice, but do you have fresh habaneros?” He went “Huh!”, jumped and wiped his browns. One of the ingredients is “chile de arbol”.

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Standard taco components

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Dinner at a simple place. I tried all the 4 kinds of tacos.

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My room has a private hummingbird feeder in the garden.

Beer again in the afternoon. IPA and imperial stout.

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digga · February 8, 2020, 2:21am

I’m nor saying that the beers sounded harsh but that your review of the beers came off as harsh. Perhaps that’s a language thing (and I’m not saying your English is bad but maybe I’m not getting what you’re saying/trying to convey).

Presunto · February 8, 2020, 10:44pm

I ate so many fish tacos at this place. Always full of both locals and tourists. Only 2 blocks from my lodging. The cook brings the tacos to your table himself (I saw only 1 server). Next time I will sit at the counter to watch him. He opens until 2pm at the latest, but it could be any time when he runs out of fish. He uses whole small fish, completely boneless but tail is left on. The tacos are bigger and there are more fish, they also cost a bit more for those reasons.

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Dinner at this place which is also popular with both locals and tourists. The cooks are all women. Well run and clean. Make their own tacos, too.

Photo of the restaurant was taken earlier in the day.

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When we saw the woman in purple flip the “superburro” we almost fell off the chair. It’s the size of a wheel.

I really like the chilli pastes (from dried chillies) some places serve.

It was dark, I should have taken more than 1 photo. It’s blurry but you can see the cactus (green and a bit sour), and other vegs. The woman in purple cooks this in an aluminium pouch on the grill over an open fire.

Their iconic “superburro”, with flank steak cooked over an open fire. I saw Mexicans eat a whole one each but it was enough for both of us.

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An employee at the beer bar told me where I could find these craft beers from Ensenada.

Loreto is small and pleasant. Nice that locals are relaxed and friendly. The airport is small and with direct flights from some Canadian and US cities it’s good for the economy. There are people here from those countries who come by own cars and camper vans. Most non Mexicans I have seen are pensioners, middle-aged, (young) families on holidays, not many young tourists.

A pedestrianised street

Loreto bay has Unesco status

An old mission

Blue whales start coming to the bay in Feb. I hope to see some next week.

So many brown pelicans and commorans.

Presunto · February 9, 2020, 10:13pm

This was from the first day we arrived in Bahia Magdalena. Spent 2 hours in the bus from Loreto to Constitucion. Then grabbed a taxi from there to Bahia Magdalena where we would be spending a whole week whale watching. This is the part I was worried about when I found out public transport only went as far as Constitucion. The taxi driver overtook a car in front of us in no-overtake zone and whilst going up the hill at the same time. We immediately scrambled for the seatbelts. After an hour or so we got to our hotel in one piece.

Where we stay is a well-run hotel-restaurant-whale watching business in a very poor part of the fishing village. There are some normal houses (albeit not very nice but are not shacks) and there are shacks. But it’s clear the immediate surrounding is sad. There are a couple of sealed streets and the rest are sandy paths. Many people fish for a living, in whale season some switch to taking tourists to see whales. All runs by the tour company so you only give them tips when we return to the village. It’s expensive but so worth the detour and the whale experiences are so incredible you will forget about the costs. The whale memories are priceless. I don’t like mentioning a business but in case anyone wants to see whales here in the future just look up “Magdalena Bay Whales” tour op.

Their restaurant is a beautiful palapa (palm leaf thatched roof), the food is good, too. Granny makes fresh tortilla to order and cooks them in a wood-fired “oven” in front of you.

First meal

Beans with chipotle and cheese

Beans and rice. Freshly made tortillas are in the basket.

Dinner: creamy rajas with peppers and corn

More peppers and corn

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